DFE28JELFDS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

my freezer quit freezing, it would freeze for one day, thaw the next, so I went online, found PARTS SELECT, LOOKED UP MY MODEL #, come to find out it needed three parts to keep my freezer to freeze, first part was a thermistor a small PART took me longer to remove all the covers, and shelving, PULLED THE OLD OUT, CUT THE WIERS TO SIZE, AND REINSTALLED, IT WELL! THAT WASN'T ENOUGH THE FREEZER STILL DIDN'T FREEZE IT THOUT IT WAS A COOL WORMING OVEN, HAD TO INSTALL THE THERMISTOR I, SO I DID, TEN MIN, NOW I THOUGHT THAT WAS IT BECAUSE IT STAYED FROZEN FOR A WEAK, HAVE YOU EVER EATEN SOUPY ICE CREAM? SO BACK TO PARTS SELECT, THIS TIME I BOUGHT ONE MORE PT, THE RUN CAPACITOR, FIVE MIN, THAT/S ALL IT TOOK TO INSTALL. I DID NOT KNOW AT THE TIME YOU NEED THE THREE OF THEM TO RUN THE FREEZER ONE TO KEEP THE TEMP., ONE TO KEEP THE FAN RUNNING THE WAY IT SHOULD, AND THE THIRD TO MAKE SURE THE OTHER TWO KEEP RUNNING. NOW I CAN SET IT AT 4- 5 AND. FREEZE.

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.

Pulled the instructions up on U-tube and followed them. With the socket removed 5 small bolts. Took the old switches ( I replaced both switches being I had it apart), put the new switches in and then put the 5 bolts back in.

I determined one of the five LED lights in the refrigerator was dead by swapping it with a working one. The refrigerator lights are wired in series and if one of the lights is dead the remaining ones turn on, but very dim. I called PartSelect.com and thanks to their help we determined the correct part to order which is the oval-shaped cover LED assembly which includes the cover, LED, and female connector. The part from PartSelect arrived in three days. The oval-shape LED plastic Cover assembly is mounted on the refrigerator and held by a couple of side latches. First unplug the refrigerator and then proceed to lightly pry the oval-shaped cover side facing the rear of the refrigerator with your finger nail to remove it. With the LED cover removed you can then press on the LED connector tab to slide it off. Now slide the female connector of the replacement part to the refrigerator male connector and snap the oval-shape plastic cover onto the refrigerator receptacle and then plug it back to its outlet. Now all the lights in the refrigerator should light up brightly! That's all folks. Hope this helps. Good luck. Yours truly.

It snapped in place.

I diagnosed the sensors in my refrigerator by holding the sensor in and seeing if I could trick the sensor it partially worked. I then used a multimeter and did an ohm test on both sensors multiple times open and closed the switch to verify which switch failed because it worked a couple times but not always. It ended up being the switch on the left hand door with 3 terminals on it and after the replacement it has worked great for weeks now no issue. best 15 dollars and 25 minutes spent!

I didn’t open the part till I verified it was the same. Then I detached the assembly from the fridge and swapped the water lines individually. The metal bracket had gotten bent a little in shipment, but straightened easily and all went back together.

I ended up ordering two valves, both of which were defective (bad) and would not pass water, for a total of $116.66. Then I had to get a service tech to install yet another valve (also a GE part) that was good and that fixed the problem (for another $187.00 charge). These parts seem to come from Canada or beyond so be careful if you order them as they too may be bad. I finally received a refund for one but I'm still hunting for a USA address to return the other one I need a refund for...good luck.

Replaced the water solenoid that has a filter/screen as part of the unit.
Removed the back bottom plate. Turned off water supply, removed hose from water valve. Removed valve assembly, and un-pluged wiring. Installed new unit reverse of removal

Installing the part repaired the fridge and freezer immediately.

I recieved the package with the correct part number but the wrong part inside. The item in the package does not even resemble the part on the GE parts website. Tried to contact parts select but no luck.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

Ordered a replacement ice maker. Simple to remove old unit one screw and one screw to remove wire cover to unplug. Replacement unit looked a little different as the left side of the new unit had various ridges which did not allow a proper fit into ice making box. After examining old unit and new I swapped the old left cover with new left cover and unit fit perfectly and it is working correctly. I suggest adding a quick note about the upgraded part as it may not fit properly and the side cover may have to swapped out.

Removed all containers from the freezer,
Removed lower freezer door, 3 bolts on each side.
Removed one front screw on the ice maker, unplugged two connectors on slide off unit
Removed covers on the old ice maker and installed on the new one
Installed the new ice maker in reverse of the removal process

Inspected the old ice maker and found the motor drive gear had missing teeth; I believe that the heater on the ice maker was failing causing a strain on the drive gears

Exposed evap defrosted with heat gun exposed defrost element defrost termination switch ok therminster didn’t check out the thermistor sends the signal to logic panel then run the the freezer ice machine and refer temps it took 24 hours before the system starting to show results freezer compartment 10 below ice compartment 0 degrees refer temp 37 degrees one refrigerant three different temps system is running at optimum performance 450.00 $ service call the thing with GE appliances there is no wiring diagram .thankyou parts select .ill use you on all domestic service calls.