CFE28TP4MDW2 General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Move the refrigerator away from the wall.
Disconnect the refrigerator.
Remove bottom drawer.
Remove two criisper drawers.
Remove crisper drawer slides, one bolt near the front of each slide.
Push slides off pin at back.
Remove bottom panel at the back of the refrigerator to access fan.
Remove fan, held with a couple of screws.
Remove rubber gasket from around old fan and put the gasket around new fan.
install new fan and bolt in place.
Replace lower panel at back at back of refrigerator.
Reinstall drawer slides, hook at back and bold at front
Reinstall drawers.
Reconnect refrigerator power.
Push refrigerator back in place and adjust feed to hold in place.

I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix
the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would
have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was
pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to
take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in.
The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still
good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from
a website even if it seems like a sure thing

Search online and came across PARTSELECT website!!! this is amazing when I opened the website and see a labeled drawing, so I know what part number to order, it arrived on time and when I install it fits very well, one lesson I've learned is whenever you removed this glass in the chiller box you have to reinstall the glass properly by inserting one of the side to the insert slide of the chiller so it will not move! I'M VERY HAPPY!!!! THANKS!!!

Received replacement part. There is a cover over the ice box latch. Pried it off with a screwdriver head. Took the broken latch off replaced new latch to cover and replaced on the door.

Instructions say run capacitor is by motor, but on this frige its in the refrigerator compartment. The capacitors looks different, one square and the other long

1. Verified good water flow by unplugging incoming water and makIng sure there was good pressure.

2. Re-attached water supply line and unplugged water line after the electronic valve to test water pressure from valve when hitting the dispense button in the front of the refrigerator.

Found very little flow directly after the valve.

Replaced valve and now everything is good. (Refrigerator is less than 2 years old)

I went on line, found PartSelect, located the diagram for our model, selected the part and ordered it. The part arrived in about 5 days, well packaged. We removed it from the packaging, and installed the new shelf. Extremely easy process. The exploded diagram on the web site allowed me to make sure I was ordering the right part.

Excellent process!

EXCHANGED THE LED LAMP ASSEMBLY. ONLY DO ONE AT A TIME AS THEY ARE WIRED IN SERIES!

I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

I opened the back panel of the fridge and exposed the compressor. Unplugged existing run capacitor and installed new one with the addition of the sleeve that is stated must be installed around the run capacitor.
Everything I read and on this web site says that based on these symptoms, that the problem is the run capacitor. I searched and search for a part called a start relay which plugs in to the compressor. This run capacitor plugs in to this other part which I take as the start relay.

Installing this run capacitor did not solve the problem. The fridge compressor keeps cycling on and off. Freezer doesn't keep as cold as it should.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.

I followed u-tube instructions.
Took off the old switch and put the new one on.

Literally turned off the water to the refrigerator, disconnected the lines from the back and took one screw loose from the inside of the unit. Slid out old filter connection and slid in the new one and did reverse process.