GNE21FMKJFES General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Installing the part repaired the fridge and freezer immediately.

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

The handle was already broken. Wish I would have checked the mating clip surface of the handle. But, after getting all set up saw this problem, and ordered a handle. Taking off and installing is simple. Tap the freezer handle end to the left using a soft mallet on the right end. I suspect a hammer would work, but without protecting the handle could bend it or at least scratch the paint. I suppose a folded rag and a hammer may work. Anyway, once off, replacing the clips on the door is a Phillips head screwdriver to unscrew and replace the door clips. Then, carefully tapped the handle from the left end to slide the mating piece in the handle back on and tap tightly. There were many YouTubes on the thing since it seems to me to be a very poor design. But maybe we are too hard on the handle???

Pulled the fridge out. Removed the back panel over the mother board. Removed and replaced. Easy peasy and working well.

The best instructions were several YouTube videos for replacing icemakers on GE french door bottom freezer refrigerators, but none fully described the process. The following difficulties were encountered: (1) Instructions for removing the freezer door showed three screws on each side that needed to be removed; in fact, there was only one screw on each side. It was smaller than the three depicted screws and its location was not exactly as shown in the videos. (2) None of the instructions adequately described the process for removing the mounting plate from the nonfunctioning icemaker so it could be attached to the replacement unit. The key was to forcibly pry open the cover over a screw that then needed to be loosened with a screw driver. It seemed that I risked breaking the unit when I tried to slide the tab, but it eventually moved and revealed the screw that was holding the original mounting plate in place. (3) Replacing the freezer door required lining up some metal studs with slots in the undercarriage; you need to get down on the floor to examine how this fits back together. (It might help to take some photos before removing the freezer door.) (4) Replacing the upper drawer was perhaps the trickiest. My first effort resulted in having the rod with gear pinions on each end pop out because some of the tabs holding the gear pinions on each end broke. That meant that I had to order two replacement gear pinions (left and right are identical). Then, as with the freezer door, it was necessary fo slide metal studs on each side into a vertical slot leading to a horizontal slot in order to seat the upper drawer properly. So the whole process took a few weeks; actual work time was perhaps 3-4 hours. This could have been shortened significantly had I taken photos as I disassembled everything and if the procedure for moving the mounting plate had been clearer (or even existing). All in all, though, this is a doable DIY project.

Replaced Temperature Sensor and now it is getting cold.

Two screws out, unplugged wire, snapped out. Plugged in, snapped back in, two screws in.

Totally followed the instructions of the video that came with the sensor. Unplugged the the fridge, defrosted the freezer. Cut off the main sensor that usually is the one that goes out. Installed the the new sensor with new wire terminals, crimped them and covered with electrical tape. Fridge works like a charm. Partsselect is excellent. Saved me a few hundred dollars versus having a GE Tech come and do it.

Repair was made simply and quickly by removing broken parts and replacing with new. No problems

On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.

I couldn’t repair the problem because the part that came did not have the clips to crimp on the end that go into the modular connection,

followed part select video instructions

Unplugged unit and removed vented cover over compressor section. The run capacitor is a simple fix 1 Phillips head screw and 2 spade wire connectors. For the temperature sensor I had to remove all drawers and the ice maker to remove the back cover to expose the condenser. Put a bowl at the drain stem in the rear of the unit and used a heat gun to defrost the coils on the condenser. Cut the wire about 3" from the sensor end . cut about the same off the new sensor stripped the wires put shrink wrap on each wire, attached butt connecors . heat gun for the shrink wrap and reassembled everything. Simple job that took about a half hour to do both. I will monitor the fridge for a couple of weeks to see if I need to change the control board.

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.