CFE28UP2MCS1 General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplug refrigerator or turn off circuit breaker.

Insert knife blade or other thin blade into joint at bottom of screen bezel (where there is a color change) and pry up slightly until top of bezel pops out. Probably need to do this in several places until the entire top edge is out slightly. Pull the top of bezel out slightly and lift up to remove.

Remove 4 1/4" hex head screws to loosen control panel. Pull control panel out from door and remove three wiring connectors. You can now completely remove panel from refrigerator door.

Use T15 Torx driver to remove 5 screws on main circuit board and 2 on the small attached board. Remove and save plastic insulator piece.

Install new boards and insulator piece using the Torx screws. Reconnect the three wiring connectors and remount the control panel using the hex head screws.

Reinstall the screen bezel by sliding the bottom in first. Align the tabs on the bezel with the mating slots in the lower panel. When bezel is all the way down push in the top edge to engage the retainer clips.

Plug in refrigerator or turn on circuit breaker. Control should now go through the startup sequence.

Received replacement part. There is a cover over the ice box latch. Pried it off with a screwdriver head. Took the broken latch off replaced new latch to cover and replaced on the door.

1. Verified good water flow by unplugging incoming water and makIng sure there was good pressure.

2. Re-attached water supply line and unplugged water line after the electronic valve to test water pressure from valve when hitting the dispense button in the front of the refrigerator.

Found very little flow directly after the valve.

Replaced valve and now everything is good. (Refrigerator is less than 2 years old)

followed install on line

Our fridge sits within our cabinets with one over top of it. That plus the leveler feet to secure it in place made this easy task a little more difficult. I was able to remove the top panel to access the switches. I was concerned, as I had not unplugged it because of the feet and went for it regardless, figuring if there was a shock, it would be minimal.

I was able to switch out the switches no problem. The only problem is it did not resolve the issue with my lights.

I asked two strong male neighbors to do the work and told them how to do it. Follow the simple directions on the box. You can Google it, but it will tell you the same directions.

After looking up what might be the problem, I ordered a new control
board. It was extremely easy to replace. Unfortunately it was not operational. I had to replace my refrigerator. The return process was very easy and my refund was processed quickly.

1. Turned power off.
2. Removed 2 screws holding plastid plate which connected electrical wire from mullion to door (requires Torq-tip screwdriver).
3. Unplugged wire plug behind the plate.
4. Lifted up old mullion from 2 slots holding it in place to remove it from door.
5. Inserted new mullion into slots on door.
6. Connected electrical wire to plug inside door.
7. Screwed 2 screws to reattached plastic plate to door.
8. Turned power back on.

I went on line, found PartSelect, located the diagram for our model, selected the part and ordered it. The part arrived in about 5 days, well packaged. We removed it from the packaging, and installed the new shelf. Extremely easy process. The exploded diagram on the web site allowed me to make sure I was ordering the right part.

Excellent process!

Replaced the 8 year old icemaker.
Turned off power.
Did not need to turnoff water supply.
Removed the 1/4" hex head screw from the wire connector cover.
Removed the wire cover taking care to be careful with the thermister
temperature sensor which slides into a square channel in the cover.
Disconnected both wire connectors.
Unscrewed the 5/16" hex screw at bottom of icemaker to unmount the old icemaker, lift the icemaker up 1/2" and out and discard.
Installed new icemaker in reverse order.

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

I followed u-tube instructions.
Took off the old switch and put the new one on.

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.