GDS20SBSASS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.

The first and most important step was to diagnose the problem. To do this I found the Parts Select website and the part I thought was the problem. The previous repairs stories helped me to pin point the problem. The mother board came within a couple of days. All I had to do was take the back plate/guard off, unplug the connectors in the back, unclip the mother board and then do the reverse over again. The only problem was the ground wire. I had to take the one off that came with the part and switch it out with the old one, because it would not connect to my refrigerator. This was fairly simple and in about 30 min. I was done and had our refrigerator back. Luckily we had another in the garage as a back up so we didn't loose any food.

Thanks Parts Select

the new board was more complicated than the old, however the install instructions seem to have anticipated this. It works for mow. thanks for inquiring'

removed cover from rear of refrigerator. disconnect mother board connections. Unplug first, used needle nose pliers to squeeze plastic tabs holding on motherboard and replaced old with new and plugged back in connections. Plug back in refrigerator and done.

Easy

Removed the old frame replaced with new one

I easily removed the screws and then removed the board and took a picture so I would remember how to re-connect it. It was really easy and now my refrigerator is working great. If I can do it anyone can do it. My husband was amazed that I did it all by myself.

Moved fridge out from wall. Unplugged. Removed circuitboard cover 6 screws?). Replaced circuit board (showed burn spots on back side). Replaced cover and plugged back in.

was not home when part came so my wife installed it enough said

according to the vidio showing how to to change the control board its look relatively easy i dont think i will have a problem changing it ,,but will i change the right part for the problem " the frige take to long to get cold again after thrawing state freezer temperature went up to 19 * or more sometime ,,thermostat has been changed and its solved the ice deposit problem" hopefully changing the control board will help shorting the long thrawing state" the board has not been changed cause the frige start working again

First, the part arrived very quickly- 2days (FedEx). Removed the back panel, began pulling multi-prong plugs from the old board. To remove the plug that came out laterally (power wires?), I used a thin screwdriver to press the retaining clips on the side of each pin (4 white) holding the circuit board in place and pulled it out for clearance, then wiggled the multi plug free from the board. [I didn't put a lot of pressure on the board while pulling these plugs- 'cause if the new board didn't work, I'd still have the old one.]

Installation was pretty much the reverse of all the steps above. Thankfully, this unit did not have a bottom freezer as two steps in the instructions would have made it riskier.
Once plugged in, I listened for the fan and compressor to kick-in, didn't hear them (was concerned at first), but the dispenser worked ("yea!")- both crushed and cubed ice. The water worked also and it's been running fine for a couple of weeks now. After checking the temp settings they seemed more stable, the fan and compressor kicked in after a few minutes, and the ice-maker is working better than before (fills more quickly). Also, it seems to run less which makes me think I've been wasting electricity while the old control board was bad. Who knows what temps it was trying to reach on each side?
Not that hard to repair, but read the instructions 'very' closely so you don't do something (like cut a wire) that doesn't apply to your fridge. Tim

replaced the temperature sensor and the defrost thermostat a couple of weeks ago, but did not solve the problem. went ahead and replaced the main control board, and i'm back in business. thanks to the how-to video's at this web sight, the job was easy.

Checked this website for symptoms described, found same descrip, ordered mainboard, changed out in less then 30 minutes, Frig working properly now. Follow the installation instructions carefully as this mainboard fits other frig's & depending on model some wires need to be cut on harness etc.

I ensured that the refrigerator was unplugged from the power, removed the main board enclosure cover, carefully unplugged the wiring connectors from the board, released the 4 plastic standoffs with needle nosed pliers by gently squeezing the ends and removed the board.
I placed the new Main Control Board on the standoffs, carefully re-connected the electrical connectors, ensuring that the plugs were mated correctly, replaced the board enclosure cover and powered up the refrigerator to verify operation of the compressor, fans and controls.
Once verified, I unplugged the refrigerator from the power, removed the access cover to the compressor and condenser and carefully cleaned all dust and lint from the back and underside of the refrigerator before replacing the cover and putting the refrigerator back into service.
The cleaning will improve the efficient operation of the refrigerator.

I pulled the fridge out away from the wall, unplugged fridge, and found the panel that the main control board was behind. after comparing old board with the new i unpluged all of the connections unscrewed four screws and installed new board in reverse order. very simple..