PDS22MIWC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Noticed the problem in November 2009. Replaced Hi Limit Sesor for Defrost thinking it was the freezor temperature sensor. Did not fix the problem. Replaced Motherboard. Did not fix the problem. Called Sears Repair. They mis-diagnosed the problem and told me it was the sealed system. I doubted them and sent them home. Replaced the correct freezer temperature sensor that connects to the motherboard. FIXED.
Removed a panel, cut two wires, soldered and insulated two wries, reinstalled panel.

The person on the telephone was quite helpful. He told me to try to save the glass from the old part, which worked, but there were several other small and large pieces which had to be carefully removed and attached to the new frame. This was the challenge--not to break them during removal. I did break a strut but, the overall repair was a success. Too bad they don't make refridgerators like they used to.

Shut off power to the refrige. Removed old icemaker, using large hammer. Installed new unit.

Required pliers to remove old - be careful. New went in very easily per instructions.

No self defrost. Measured heater coil with ohm meter which was OK (not open). Ordered 2 temp sensors (there are 2 in freezer, 2 in fresh food sections). The original and the new all meaured ~150 ohms. Replaced one by one. This did not fix problem. Ordered defrost thermostat. Original measured ~150 ohms - new one was ~100 ohms. Unpluged refridgerator. Removed coil panel (4 nut screws) in freezer and light cover (1 small phillips screw). Locate defrost thermostat clipped to top of coils (orange / pink wires). Cut wires and unclipped thermostat. Stripped insulation off of wires and reconnect using wire nuts. Clipped thermostat back to coils. Ran refridgerator without panel on coils to see if coils frosted up again and listend for fans/compressor to stop ( took hours). Opened freezer and viewed glow of defrost heater. Problem resolved.

Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.

New ice maker only used 2 screws and the old one had 3. This was no problem. The old ice maker had already been removed. Just loosen the 3 screws and unplug the cord to ice maker. Only problem with ice maker was with the cord, which I had to use the supplied adapter. It was too long and in the way when reinstalling the ice bin. The ice bin had a small notch area on the bottom left. I used a plastic tie to bundle the cord into the notch. Carefully placed ice bin and no problem. The first part I received was damaged and was replaced 2 days later by a brand new part. Customer service charged for the replacement part but said they would credit my charge card within 2 to 3 weeks for the damaged part. Its been a week and if they follow thru like the said I woild give Part Select 5 Stars for service and Parts.

Remove the two nuts holding the top of the unit to the side of the freezer using a 1/4 in nutdriver. Pull the unit out and unplug it from the back of the freezer. Remove all pieces of the broken stripper. The replacement part fits onto a peg on the back of the icemaker and into a slot. Bend into place and slide into position.

The door seemed like the seal wasn't holding the door shut tightly, also the door wouldn't close on it's own even after adjusting the level so it leaned slightly backwards. I thought at first something had happened to the door seal, but it looked in tact. Then I noticed that there was some rubbing on the steel near the lower pin hinge of the main door. I removed the door, by first removing the 3 bolts that hold the upper door hinge. Then lifted the door off the lower hinge. The door is very light and easy for one person to lift. I found that the lower hinge pin slides into the door which has a plastic bushing called a thimble. This is a washer with a collar on it. For some reason, this bushing was missing it's collar. I simply slid the old one out, and replaced it with the new, slid the door back on it's lower hinge pin, then reinstalled the upper hinge pin after sliding the pin into the uole in the top of the door.
The door closes better now than it ever did, and works very freely when opening. Replacement of the thimble also created a better alignment of the door to the refrigerator body, and now the door seal holds tightly, and once again gives that bit of resistance when you open the door.

We couldn't get the other connector loose from one end of the tubing so he said just cut it and so we did and attached the connector. I now have water again in my fridge and took the sticky note down "don't use the water" as it had leaked for a year...... Thanks!

just unscrewed the 3 screws, attached the rounded plug that came with the unit and screwed back only 2 screws. ice magic in about a couple of hours

There were no directions provided. Several pieces had to be removed from the broken frame and reinstalled on the new frame. Comparing the new frame to the old frame provided a road map for what parts had to reused and transferred. As all the parts are plactic, this had to be done carefully so as to avoid damaging the plastic during removal and installation. The only tool required was a screw driver which was used to pry the needed parts off the old frame.

While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope

My husband did the repair, and even though our refrigerator is roughly 20+ years old, he was able to adapt it to work in all the right spots and we now have ice cubes! I'm very happy we did not have to spend $2000 on a comparable refrigerator.

The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.