PTS22LCPC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed back panel. Opened cover to relay attached to the compressor and pulled off replacing with new relay. No problem.

Better than paying $250 for someone else to do it.

Tried manually defrosting several times and the unit would work for a couple of weeks and then get frosted over again.
Using this web site I easily found and identified the parts I needed. I ordered both the heating element and the heater thermostat (If I am going to take apart the unit I only want to do it once). Both parts arrived very quickly and were exact replacements for the parts in the unit.
I removed the ice maker by loosening two screws and unplugging the cable. The top part with the light came down by removing two screws. The vent at the back slid up and was removed. The back panel was removed by removing two screws. I could now access the evaporator coil.
The evaporator coil was removed by removing two screws. The old heater element was on the bottom of the evaporator coil and the heater thermostat was on the upper right of the coil.
I disconnected the wire at each end of the heater element. I removed the retaining clip at the bottom center of the coil. The heater element was removed by bending a tab at each end of the element and then sliding it down.
I unclipped the thermostat from the coil and snaked the wires around the coil to the front so I could work on them easier. I cut the thermostat wires, stripped the ends, connected the new thermostat matching the wire colors, soldered both connections and sealed with some liquid electrical tape. I then snaked the wires behind the coil and snapped the thermostat onto the coil.
The heating element slid up into the bottom of the coil and I bent the tabs back into place and reinstalled the retaining clip. I reconnected the wires to the element.
Putting everything back together was a few more minutes.
Total repair time was about 4 hours from starting to empty the freezer to when I turned the unit back on. By far the longest activity was defrosting. The actual repair itself was about half an hour. Emptying, defrosting and cleaning up were the other 3 and a half hours.

the first thing i did was replace the water valve at the bottom of the refrigerator but that didn't work so then i spent more time researching the problem on your site and your diagnostic said to replace the ice maker so i ordered it, took the old one out, plugged the new one in and we had ice the next day.

There were not two screws as the instructions said. There was only one screw and I had to firmly pull it out after taking out the one screw. Then, to put the new one in, I had to line up two slots on two knob-like things and push it in firmly. Then screw the one screw in.

Other than the two-screw problem, it was easy.

Took panel off back of inside of freezer section, took off old sensor from the evaporator, spliced new sensor into the existing wires, waterproofed spliced connections, snapped sensor back onto evaporator, then put panel back on the inside of the freezer. Really, it took only 10 minutes to fix. Now refrigerator defrosts like it used to, and temps have settled in at specified temps.

The replacement ice maker that GE supplies for my old refrigerator is a little different than the original. The electrical plug changed from a round plug to a square one. They include an adapter for it, but DON'T USE IT. There's not enough room for the bulky cord and connector. I got a much cleaner installation by taking apart the old and the new ice maker, and then splicing in the old connector into the new ice maker. You need to carefully unscrew a circuit board inside to wire it in, and it'll be more secure if you solider 3 wires instead of using crimp connectors. The instructions also tell you to use your old 'ice breaker', but it won't fit on the new ice maker. I just left the new ice maker's ice breaker on, and it seems to work perfect.

Frig and freezer were defrosting and refreezing other than normal. Home warranty contractor told me ice maker was faulty. Purchased new ice maker. Unplugged frig, loosened 2 screws with nut driver. unplugged old ice maker, lifted old ice maker out. Took old fill cup off old unit and put on new unit since new fill cup was a different size. Swapped ice maker insert from old to new unit. Plugged in new ice maker, slid over the 2 screws, tightened, and plugged in frig power. New ice maker works fine but still have defrosting and refreezing problem. Figure old ice maker probably works just fine. New contractor still trying to solve problem. Have had problems with this GE Monagram keeping proper temps since it was new in 2005, don't recommend it.

Noticed the problem in November 2009. Replaced Hi Limit Sesor for Defrost thinking it was the freezor temperature sensor. Did not fix the problem. Replaced Motherboard. Did not fix the problem. Called Sears Repair. They mis-diagnosed the problem and told me it was the sealed system. I doubted them and sent them home. Replaced the correct freezer temperature sensor that connects to the motherboard. FIXED.
Removed a panel, cut two wires, soldered and insulated two wries, reinstalled panel.

First turned off power and removed top shelf.
Then I used a flathead to slowly pry the switch out by the two sides. You just anlge ita bit and it slideds out easily. Then I disconnected the wires from the old switch, connected the new one and installed the new switch by snapping it back into the cutout.

Using nutdriver removed access panel on back. Unscrewed water supply line. Using nutdriver removed water inlet valve. The feed line to the icemaker is a pushlock connection so removed feed line. Then reverse process.

Shut off power to the refrige. Removed old icemaker, using large hammer. Installed new unit.

No self defrost. Measured heater coil with ohm meter which was OK (not open). Ordered 2 temp sensors (there are 2 in freezer, 2 in fresh food sections). The original and the new all meaured ~150 ohms. Replaced one by one. This did not fix problem. Ordered defrost thermostat. Original measured ~150 ohms - new one was ~100 ohms. Unpluged refridgerator. Removed coil panel (4 nut screws) in freezer and light cover (1 small phillips screw). Locate defrost thermostat clipped to top of coils (orange / pink wires). Cut wires and unclipped thermostat. Stripped insulation off of wires and reconnect using wire nuts. Clipped thermostat back to coils. Ran refridgerator without panel on coils to see if coils frosted up again and listend for fans/compressor to stop ( took hours). Opened freezer and viewed glow of defrost heater. Problem resolved.

Moved refrigerator out from wall. On the back of the refrigerator at the bottom there is a metal plate. Removed this plate with a socket wrench to expose where the end of the tube pluged in. The grommet securing the tube, white on my unit, had to be pushed up to release the old tube. I pushed the new tube into where the old one was and it self secured the tube. The other end of the grommet I pushed through the hole feeding the ice maker,first pushing out the broked part with a screwdriver,and securing that end with the attached sticky tape already attached to the grommet. I cleaned the area around the hole with alcohol before attaching the grommet.Replaced metal plate and done. No leaks.

After thawing out freezer pushed water supply tube out from inside freezer diconneted the supply line from the valve assembly by pushing in the bushing with my finger and inserting the new line. Sadly that wasn't the problem!For anyone with the same symptoms of ice building up on your ice maker, to the point where it clogged the water supply line and started leaking from the grommet assembly. The problem is the valve not closing when the ice maker does not need any water. so I ordered a new valve and hopefully that will fix my problem.

Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.