TFX20ZRAD General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Cut old thermostat out and installed with heat shrinking wrap and solder the wires and still having issues it might be something else.

I had to defrost freezer first becasue it was heavily iced up. Then I found that one of the heater elements was "open". I removed both of the old heater elements and installed the replacement parts.

Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.

I watched the video online, followed the instructions and within minutes had the part installed. The frig light was working once again! I will say the original switch was very snug and I had to do some very minor scraping of the plastic to get the new part to slide in.

First I removed the top hinge of the refrigerator door and then lifted it off the bottom assembly. I had to turn the door on its side to work on the bottom where the broken part was located. I unscrewed the bottom assembly and replaced the broken part with the new door cam. Put it all back together and now the door closes but must be manually pushed to close. When the door was working properly it would shut automatically when released from any position. I think I need to install an additional part - maybe a shim? to make it close automatically. That will be another story.
This was a fairly simple jog to do but since I did not have the proper tools it did take me longer than usual to remove the bolts. I'm happy I did it myself and saved a big repair bill! Thanks to the people at PartSelect.com.

took top bracket off--then removed door--took
bottom bracket off bottom of door and replaced
door closing cam and reasembled---a piece of
cake

I used a 5" tall can of peaches to hold up the
door while I removed the screws on hinge & door stop. I removed the shims & cam riser on the
door . I then removed the hinge & used the dremel tool to cut the rivet off . I used a bolt ,nut & lock
washer in place of the rivet. Re- installed the
cams & shims ,added a little lube on the cams &
the hinge . Everything worked good . I would say it
was an easy repair.
Jerry Johnson

Removed the top hinge cover held by one screw. Removed the top hinge held by two screws and them lifted the door up and off the bottom hinge. Laid the door on the floor and replaced the cam piece from the kit on the bottome of the door. That required removing one screw and losening another. Removed the lower hinge (two screws) and replaced it with the new one in the kit. The lower hinge includes the other cam piece. Lifted the door onto the lower hinge and then replaced the top hinge and cover.

I removed the door from the bottom hinge assembly by removing the top hinge assembly.
1. Installed the cam to the bottom of the door.
2. Installed hinge and bottom pin & cam to the refrigerator.
3. Reinstalled door and adjusted front roller height to make door close better.

I removed all items from the door to make it lighter. Then, with the door closed, I lifted the door and placed a 2x4 plus a paint stirrer shim under the door to hold it off the bottom hinge. I used a small socket set to remove the two hex head screws from the existing hinge assembly, which I then removed from the door. Using the same socket set and socket I removed the two screws from the bottom of the door that were holding on the upper piece of the door closing cam. I took care to note the orientation and position of two shims and cover that were with the cam. I used the old shims with the new upper cam piece that came with the hinge assembly and attached them to the door with the original two screws. Finally I inserted the new hinge assembly and mounted it to the refrigerator frame. I finished the job by lifting the door and removing the 2x4 and shim. The new parts worked perfectly.

The drawer slide rail involved removing the Convertable Meat Pan drawer and lifting off the top glass plate. The slide rail was removed by unscrewing two phillips screws. The two screws were used to attach the new drawer slide rail then I replaced the top glass plate and drawer. Very easy assembly operation.

Like the rest of the other statements it was easy with 2 2X4 pieces of wood to block the door up. The other suggestion about buying two of the pieces was a good idea. Once I took off both the top and bottom pieces they were both worn out and it was easy to replace them both at the same time. The door is working good again and shuts on its own.

I was set to buy a new magnetic seal to hold the door closed, when I looked it up on PartSelect I saw the recommendation that the problem might be the door closing cam.. I check it with a mirror and sure enough the cam had broken and the door sagged about 1/4 inch. I then followed the instruction and removed the top hinge, lifted the door off and replaced the cam. I did need two and the one attached to the lower hinge had to be drilled out and a new screw and nut attached to hold the cam. It was simple to do, I would recommend selling the door closing cam be sold in pairs with a #10 1/2 inch long screw with lock nut.

Emptied refrigerator door shelves. Supported door with 4x4 blocks. Removed old door hinge and replaced with new door hinge and cams. Pleased with end result and dealing with PartSelect.

Removed four screws at bottom of door, while someone held the door in place replaced the upper cam (there are two) applied some silicone plumbers lube between the mating surfaces and tightened it up. Works like new bottom cam was only slightly worn. P.S. Remove everything from the door first.

Same problems as already described .... door would not close, plastic bits on floor, angry, ready to throw-out 15 year old “dog” and blow at least $1,000 on a new appliance!

This repair is dead easy. Remove the two bolts holding the top hinge and lift off the entire door. Don’t be surprised if the original Riser Cam has virtually disintegrated, mine was a wreck. Remove two bolts that retain the old flat metal “shim” and fiber “gasket”.

Fit new Riser Cam and re-use old shim and gasket. Replace door on dome-shape bottom hinge mount and then re-fit top hinge.

If in any doubt order new shim and gasket along with the new cam riser. Or, do as I did, and “manufacture” either of these parts from scrap material found in the workshop ....