PSF26PGWB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Because the lever was broken, when you close the refrigerator door, the freezer door would unseal slightly causing frost to build up on the inside and outside of the door.

After removing the base grille, the repair was made by simply placing the new part in the slot where the old part was then re-attaching the spring from the part to the hook in the base of the refrigerator. Now replace the base grille with the two screws. Time: About 10 minutes. Tools: Phillips screwdriver, needle nose pliers.

Replacement of the Main Control board was relatively easy, although some of the connectors were reluctant to separate.

The new control board appears to have solved the problem.

Troubleshot the tempeture sensors and the resistance was alot lower than the specs called for had to replace the evap fan being 1 of the sensors is connected to the evap fan . Start by removing all the food from the.freezer and bottom section of the fridge . Remove all the shelves and bins in freezer and shelf and drawers.on the lower section of the fridge .remove the ice bin , and the ice.machine remove the light shroud, and.bulbs, push tabs on the light sockets and pull the sockets from the housing.. and then push the sockets through the holes of housing remove all the screws from the rear wall from top to bottom upon removal of the section just under the ice.machine and behind the light socket you.will find the evap fan and it's bracket remove the 2 screws and pull straight up on the fan blade be carefully to not break its best to pull from the center of fan blade .remove the clip and thermistor that's connected to top of the evap coil. While your there remove the defrost thermostat to do this the clamp that holds it to the coil is a split clamp and you gently push on the clamp upper section and pull the lower section and it will seperate enough for you to remove the thermostat the other thermistors are in the fridge section 2 are on the divider wall behind the plastic oval plastic.housings one just above the the middle.of fridge the other is.lower section. And finally 1 more is at the very bottom of fridge last drawer on right hand side to.remove this you need to remove the light cover. Remove the plastic half round plastic deflector and the foam behind it remove the water reservoir screws and open the freezer at the bottom center wall at the back is a round plastic damper cover with a Phillip screw remove that ,on fridge side remove the 4 screws that hold the lower damper housing to the bottom of fridge gently and slowly work your way around the center seam and aeperate the upper cover of damper housing and expose the thermistor and replace. Note on all the thermistors just cut off enough to splice in replacement I personally used water tight heat shrink soldered type butts work great

REPLACING THE DEFROST HEATER & BRA:
1- Empty freezer.
2- Remove all shelves.
3- Remove white painted metal wall plate opposite
the freezer door. There are 2 phillips head screws
attaching it.
4- There may be ice build-up on the freezer coils,
thaw the ice using a hair dryer.
5- Remove the 2 phillips screws holding the
defrost heater to the freezer coil frame, at the
bottom of the frame.
6- Install the defrost heater to the frame.
7- Replace metal panel.

REPLACING THE DEFROST THERMOSTAT.

1-Perform steps 1-4 above.
2-Locate the thermostat at the top of the freezer
coil in the freezer.
3-Cut the wires connecting the thermostat.
4-Connect the new thermostat to the wires that
were connecting the old thermostat, connecting
the wire color to the same color wire.

Note: Connect the wires by using wire splices
available at radio shack. Use splices
sized for 20 guage wire, and wrap with
electrical tape to protect from moisture.

5- Replace metal panel.

I popped the switch out using the blade of a small screwdriver and noticed that it connected with two wires via a slide on connector for each one. I noted the info on the old switch to identify which wire went to which terminal. I held each wire with a pair of pliers while I pulled the wire connector off the terminal on the old switch. I connected the two wires to the correct terminals on the new swith, and popped the switch back into the door frame. Easy, easy, easy and saved the $40 service call + parts cost!

Watched video, however could not get outer casing off. Under the panel are three small holes, pushed up with an Allen key, used a small screwdriver to wedge out, came out easily, followed instructions from video on removing and replacing solenoid

On this fridge, you MUST take out the ice maker. First took out the shelves. Then take out the ice maker. This is done by taking out the four screws on the side that hold the assembly containing the bulb. Then there is one screw that holds that assembly to the icemaker. Do not take out any other screws, this is a mistake I made that cost me a few more hours figuring out how to get the other parts to mount correctly to the assembly containing the bulb. The icemaker should lift right out once the white plus is unplugged from the assembly that holds the light. Then took out the shelf brackets and finally could remove rear panel. Found it all iced up as others have. Took 1.5 hours to manually defrost while using sponges to sop up all the water that would run into the drain if you let it. Was about a gallon of water so using sponges worked well. Heater was open when checked with a meter, but you could tell it was blown by the way it looked. All cloudy. Put things back in reverse order. Had an issue with the icemaker shooting water out and missing the icemaker. Eventually was able to align better. This fridge had also just stopped dispensing water. I think the lines may have been frozen in the back, because one day after defrosting manually, the water dispenser started working again Overall this took about 4 hours. But a few days later, the water dispenser again stopped working. Not sure about that one. I have a valve already that I will try for this issue but somehow I don't think its the valve.

Unfortunately, the replacement part didn't come with instructions. The repair, nevertheless, was fairly straightforward. After removing the plastic parts that guide the ice through the door (by removing a few screws that attach the parts to the inside of the door), I was able to slip my hand into the ice maker dispenser and remove the old part. The part clips on. It is a tight fit through the funnel (from the outside of the freezer), however, and requires that the gasket first be "flipped" open wherein it unfolds 180 degrees. Doing this will make it easier to clip the new gasket onto the assembly.

I received part. I then used a hair dryer to smooth out kinks. Took about 15 minutes. Pulled off old gasket and replaced with new one. Used hands only.

First, I removed the top drawer blocking the area where I needed to put the glass panel cover. Then, I removed the drawer along with the glass panel holder to which I needed to install the glass. I installed the glass to the panel holder without difficulties (although the glass cover was expensive :() and reinstall the drawers back to their proper place. This repair was actually a no-brainer.

The slideout shelf "assembly" comes without the
keeper tab, and as such is incomplete. You have to order it separately or rob it from the old one. If the old one is broken or you break it trying to get it out of the old one you're out of luck unless you ordered
the tab also. Other than that it's a no-brainer.

Removed panel from front of freezer door by pushing up on three spring loaded screws located in the opening where the ice door opens and closes. they are about 1 inch apart on the bottom of the opening. Push up to free ice maker panel. Remove three screws from solenoid, located at the top right. Remove wire, replace with new and that is it. Fixed the problem!! Our ice maker hadn't worked for months. Be careful if you remove the round ice maker door to clean. There is a spring that located on the left side of sprocket. The spring fell off and took me a while to figure where it came from. Recieved package in three days and the job took minutes. Works great! Very easy to complete.

1. Removed all food, shelves, and ice bin from freezer compartment.
2. Removed freezer light hood and unscrewed freezer bulb.
3. Removed rear evaporator cover panel (2 Phillip’s screws, 2 hex screws).
4. Melted ice on coils with hair blow dryer (needed bath towels to collected water).
5. Removed old defrost heater (2 Phillips screws, 2 plug-ins).
6. New heater connected without any adjustments.
7. Replaced evaporator cover ice bin, shelves and food.

turned out to be a rusty drain pan in the refrigerator section behind the fan fixture attached to the wall.I followed the instructions of a prior customer on the website and it worked like a charm. Super happy to have done it myself!! Can't believe they don't use plastic for this part as it would rust again if I didn't coat it with the rustproofing spray.

The repaire guy came in tooke it out and told me it is goin to coast $20 for the part and $50 for the labor..... So I looked, It was soooo eeezzz ALL you have to do is get the switch out( with help of my butter knife :) it plugs in to a little outlet on the wire (on the botom side) so take out the old one and plug in the new one wich I got for $8 + $6 shipping = $15 THANK YOU PART SELECT for saving me $55 Im a 36 y/o stayathome mom and Ihave never don this before, Im very proud of my self. well... it was very easy!