TBX21MAXARWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

My husband thought he would have to set aside time on the weekend to replace the gasket. It was delivered and I unpacked it put it on and that was that.

I had to remove the glass shelve, the two drawers, and the middle rail. Once I did that, I slide the unit out together. I placed the unit on the floor and removed the one screw located on the far backside of the unit. I had to remove a slip cover (it had the kenmore logo and the writting on it) it was a snap on, so no problem. Glad it was not gluded on. After the old part was removed, I put the new part on. Put the two screws back on and snap the cover back on. Then I put the whole unit back in. This included the glassshelve and drawers. The process was pretty easy. Good luck with your change.

Took out both draws and glass shelf, removed the entire lower shelf housing. I snapped off the front rail aluminum face to expose the screw. Unscrewed both screws and removed the rail and then just reversed the procedure to put new rail on. It was the most cost effective way of doing it. All the pieces are there on the GE website as long as you know the model number. You will save a lot of money by doing it yourself.

I followed the directions on the site for the center slide replacement. I had actually called a local store and had him order the first part. It took several days and then I started searching online and found this site.Then I ordered the second part on line and to my surprise it arrived the next day. I was fortunate enough to have lived only about 70 miles from the distributer.Following the directions I found here is how I attempted the initial repair. With the vegetable bins out fo the bottom, I removed the plate covering the front frame by gently prying it off. Then I removed the two screws to losen the bar and lifted out the glass shelf. I didn't have much difficulty removing the frame since the front piece support for the slide rail that fit into the frame was already broken. I also had to loosen the screws on the back rail. I removed the entire frame and then replaced the side rail reinserting it into the end caps. I replaced the back screws and then the front ones .I replaced the glass shelf and then the cover cap for the shelf.
The only problem I encountered was that I couldn't seem to get the back screws really tight and I don't know why.

Removed freezer door then refrigerator door. Layed it on a big drop cloth to work on it. Replace feeezer door and cover refrigerator opening with plastic or something to help keep the cold in.
Removing old gasket was easy. Just pull it out. Align the new gasket with metal bracket that holds it then firmly hammer it into place. You’ll know when it’s attached correctly cause it hugs the door properly.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

This was so easy I think it took me 2 minutes. I am not very mechanically inclined but that didn't matter! Works perfect thank you!

Repair was super simple. Everything was a direct fit. Hardest part was unloading freezer to access evap motor. My freezer was old making my wire shields very brittle so I cut the shielding and used heat shrink tubing for a neat clean repair.

Allow 24 hours for new gasket to flatten out from packaging. Gently peel off existing gasket. Clean dirt and mold from mount area.
Mount gasket beginning at a corner. Press gasket into place every inch around perimeter. Done! Water is no longer in bottom of refrigerator and it is running more efficiently (less time running) due to the fact that it can maintain the temperature for longer periods of time.

Placed new gasket into dryer,( recommended by 2 u tubes) high heat for about 10 minutes and was a snap getting softened gasket into little tiny slot actual placement was done twice as there was a twist in the seal i missed the first time so did do twice but was so easy this way was almost sad thinking it would have been 100$ deductible having someone do it and who knows what normal cost would have been......thanks u tube

Took out shelf & brackets. Removed plastic shelf. Unscrewed broken bracket & screwed in new bracket.
Put back in & replaced the shelf.

Removed drawers and glass shelf. Removed screws that hold old slide rails in place. Installed new rails and re-installed cover for vents. Placed assembly back in and installed drawers.

put the gratefruit knife behind the old switch pooped it out pluged the new one in piece of cake 5min.even vacumed the dust off the coil

removed produce drawers, removed center piece front cover, removed glass shelf, removed broken drawer slide rail - unscrewing where attached in the rear of the refrigerator. Also removed screw from centerpiece where broken drawer slide rail was attached. reassembled all very quickly....saved myself having to buy another refrigerator by doing this simple repair.

it was so easy I need to put an ad online to replace gaskets got the right part on time get fit