TBX22RHC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Disconnect the power. Unscrew the bottom toe kick panel. Locate the solenoid drain valve to the front left of the machine and disconnect the wired connection. Pry off the retainer clip on the drain valve spindle and set aside for reuse. Plan on getting a new one because you will most likely damage it when removing. Remove the spring from the solenoid valve spindle arm to access one of the three screws holding the solenoid drain valve to the pump. Remove the three screws. Remove the solenoid and plastic housing. Remove the push-on-nut from the spindle by cutting off the old one with wire cutters. Plan on buying a new one because you will never get it off in one piece. Pry out old valve seal with a knife or thin screw driver. Insert new seal and install new push on nut over seal. Important!! make sure the drain valve opens/closes freely by hand because you may have pushed the spindle in to far when installing the push on nut. Place the push on nut in a socket wrench socket with an extension and hammer it on gently or try to start itwith pliers and use a small length of 3/8" copper tubing. Again, check to see if drain valve rotates and pull the spindle in or out with pliers to adjust. Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order. Leak shoud be fixed but check to see if machine drains properly. You may have to dissassemble and adjust the spindle again. This is a difficult repair with the machine left in place. However, it is worth 1-2 hours of your time and for about 20 bucks in parts and shipping. Good luck!!

Pulled ice tub, removed auger rotation motor and solenoid housing, removed solenoid and replaced with new one and reinstalled. Checked solenoid was working by holding freezer door open and closing switch to door an activating ice switch-- solenoid picked up. Put ice tub with auger back into freezer.

Determined that the little door that opens to allow full size cubes to fall was not opening. If you open freezer door, hold door switch in, select cubes and push in the lever that the glass pushes in you should hear the solenoid lift open which opens the little door. Mine was doing nothing. Removed ice bin and then removed icemaker motor/solenoid section from back of freezer by disconnecting two wire harnesses and one screw. Found that solenoid smelled burnt and could see that inside of the solenoid was swollen out of round and burnt. Simple to replace.

Pulled the two wires out from the access hole in the lower part of the refrigerator. Put them in the spade connectors on the new switch, and pushed the switch into place.

Used a flat screw driver to push in the small metal piece holding the end cap in place(this was to detach the old broken end cap). Then snapped on the new end cap.

Just as your video described, although due to the age of the fridge, it took a bit longer to remove the defective switch. Your video made this so simple, I can't imagine why we lived with a dark fridge for so long! I was ready to buy a whole new fridge, as repairmen are often nonexistent for small repairs. I am the biggest fan of your company & it's repair video. THANK YOU SO MUCH

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

Read Joseph from Livermore, CA for good instructions. I took a camera phone photo for reference before I started. Should have taken another photo half way thru. Probably put the push-on-nut on backwards as it didn't 'lock' in - had too much play in the shaft, would have leaked. Impossible to get nut back off in good shape. I put original mangled push-on-nut on also - it added enough tension to eliminate play in the shaft. No leak..but lucky. Go ahead, you can do this repair for under $20.

Solenoid pushing the crushed ice flapper was burned out. Solenoid was easy to find unplug and replace. I used the old piston which simplified things. Now works great

I followed the instructions verbatim as others explained. I did it step by step exactly as instructed, The timing was almost exact no more than 30 minutes. I removed the fan the night before the delivery of the new fan and used a small desk fan to cool the compressor. It worked fine in one half hour my freezer read a perfect zero. Thanks for all the help

Naturally you have to push the frig from the wall and unplug it form the wall outlet and while you are removing and installing the old motor and installing the new motor. Do not open any of the frig and freezer door untill you are finished and you plug the power cord back into the wall outlet. Remove the lower back panel with a screw driver or a 5/16th hex driver. It is a kind of carboard. Once all the screws are out of that panel pull the top out from behind the steel above and then pull it out from the bottom and set it aside. Unplug the power line off of the motor. There are 3 separate brakets holding the motor in place. 1st remove the fan from the motor by romving the finger nut off the motor shaft and then remove the 1st bracket screw from the bracket all the way. Then use a light to see the other 2 screws and you will see that you do not have to take them all the way out like the first one. Just loosen the other 2 and then turn the motor and brackets counter clockwise and then pull the motor and brackets all out as one from the right hand side of where the brackets were mounted. I took the motor and brackets to the counter and removed te brackets from the motor and installed them to the new motor making sure that the bracket with the one screw hole in it is mounted at the right place so that when you reenstall the motor and brackets will let the motor wire connector be the closest to the outside where you can replug the power cord back onto the motor. Install the fan onto the new motor with the new finger nut that comes with the new motor. replace the back panel and pkug in the power cord fot the frig and let it run. Mine ran a lot quieter after the new motor was plugged in. Have fun if you have to do it. It is worth it.

removed the inside fridge electrical panel and swapped switches

I started removing the switch by prying on the right side with a screwdriver, when it emerged enough I used pliers to finish removing it. I then unpluged rhe wires from the bad switch and pluged them on the new switch and "poped" it into the hole.

Connected the 2 wires and pushed in the switch until it clicked.

Installed new part