TFF24RA General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

There was what seemed to be a half chewed up washer under the refig. door. The door wasn't closing all the way. DING!! Something was wrong!!

I looked up your schematic for the refrig door and decided what piece might have broken. It was a good guess and the part showed up a few days later.

I wedged up the refrig door to take the tension off the lower bracket. Then, just took off the bracket and replaced the broken door closing cam.

I used a block of wood to hold up the door. Then unbolted the lower hinge from the fridge. That is when I found out that it was fine and it was the upper half of the hinge that was broken (worn).
So I unbolted the upper hinge (mounted on the bottom of door) It uses the same part. So I installed the part on the upper half of the hinge.

I wish somebody would have told me that you need 2 of these for each hinge. The bottom one was in good shape, lucky for me.

Determined that the little door that opens to allow full size cubes to fall was not opening. If you open freezer door, hold door switch in, select cubes and push in the lever that the glass pushes in you should hear the solenoid lift open which opens the little door. Mine was doing nothing. Removed ice bin and then removed icemaker motor/solenoid section from back of freezer by disconnecting two wire harnesses and one screw. Found that solenoid smelled burnt and could see that inside of the solenoid was swollen out of round and burnt. Simple to replace.

Pulled the two wires out from the access hole in the lower part of the refrigerator. Put them in the spade connectors on the new switch, and pushed the switch into place.

Thanks to the stories on PartSelect my wife and I knew what to expect. The biggest hassle was sawing off the rivet that's on the hinge on the refrigerator (my wife volunteered for that job). When we got everything back together the door worked a lot better, but still wouldn't close without a little push. In frustration and running out of time, we put the stuff back inside the refrigerator door and that did the trick! The weight was enough to allow the door to close on its own.

Followed previous poster's steps. Replacement of door closing cams took 35 minutes. Make sure you buy 2 cams for each door.

The old plastic door closer cam on bottom of the the door had broken. What was left of it was held on by a hex head screw. There was also a fiber spacer under the cam that was broken. I made a new one out of a piece of aluminum, but cardboard probably would have worked.

Forgot to mention you have to take the door off first--loosen the two screws on the top hinge and lift the door out of the bottom hinge.

I found the self-closing sometimes won't work well until there is some weight in the door.

I followed the directions on the computer and everything went just as the video said it would. This was one of the easiest repairs I have ever done. Usually, it does not go as planned.

Replaced both upper and lower cam's. Removed door from refrigerator, removed bolts on door cam on bottom of main door and replaced cam, then removed bolts from door hinge assembly, drilled out rivet holding on cam, replaced with new cam and re-riveted.

Removed the door and loosened the bottom bracket and scraped the old cam off. Mounted new cam and tightned the bracket. Replaced door and it was a total sucess.

My wife and I gave an old, but really good refergerator to our son (a Major in the Army). Upon taking it into his house he had to remove the doors of the refergerator. While he put the doors he lost the "cam" for the door, making if difficult to close (actually had to lift the door up and then close it). I ordered the replacement part, and unless I am mistaken, it arrived the same day. I still cannot figure out how this happened, but it was great!!

Your vidio was Brilliant !!i just followed your instructions

1st: Order (2) closing cams! One for the hinge pin / bracket and one for the bottom of the door.
The closing cam on the door was where the Dremel type tool is required, since you have to grind the head off of a factory rivet.
I installed the cam with an aluminum pop rivet.
Next, remove the bracket on the bottom of the door with sockets and install the second closing cam.
Re-attach the top door hinge pin and align visually; tighen all bolts. Job finished, but more important , my wife is not nagging me about the repair that I put off for over a year!!!!

Removed the top cover using a Phillips screw driver to access the top 2 screws holding the bracket. Once the bracket was removed, lifted the door off the bottom hinge. Replaced the door closing cam, replaced shims and screws. Placed the door back on the bottom hinge, inserted the top bracket and secured.
This was the ultimate resolution to the problem. The problem I encountered was getting all of the correct parts. It took me 3 tries to finally identify and receive the parts needed to make the repairs. Using Part Select made it easy because they had the parts I needed. My 3 tries were partly my error and does not reflect on Part Select. I would recommend others use Part Select when choosing their replacement parts.

Took the door contents out and put them on the counter, took the door off the hinges by unscrewing the 2 screws on the top of the Fridge and lifting the door off the hinge onthe bottom. Then laid down the Fridge on the kitchen floor and replaced the Door Closing Cam, keeping in mind the order of the 3 shims and other things on the bottom of the door. Simple.