MSK25ZADAAA General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Followed other messages to complete fix. Simple overall.

Please note that if you buy the hinge assembly, you get spacer parts that mate. If you don't you have to hack-saw the rivot off the old hinge assembly to do your repair. Hinge assembly cost more but less work.

The refrigerator door would now close and notice broken plastic on the floor. It is a 1990 or so GE fridge. To repair - ordered the Cam Riser (the plastic piece that broke and the matching lower door bracket.

Took off the lower hinge with a socket wrench. removed the door. Replace the old Cam Riser with the new one. Slid the door onto the upper guide then fastened the new hinge with the socket wrench.

Easy job .. around 20 minutes.

I could see a broken part but couldn't tell exactly how it was oriented on the hinge. I bought just the cam riser but then thought I needed the hinge kit based on what I read on this site. Then I saw better pictures of the hinge kit on another site & realized there are 2 cam risers that meet. The one riveted to the hinge was fine (in my case) - I only needed the upper one...a very inexpensive repair. Do NOT remove the door for this repair. Slide the door up a bit while closed and use a pint-sized paint can to prop it up. Make the repair and remove the can...done.

Removed trim cap at top of door. Removed two hex head screws and lifted top hinge off door. Lifted door off lower hinge. Unscrewed broken cam riser from bottom of door and replaced with new part which was then screwed into place. Replaced door on lower hinge, Replaced upper hinge onto top of door, replaced screws and replaced trim.

Easy peasy. :-)

I had to remove the top hinge of the door and shut off the water supply to the automatic ice maker. I then unhooked the water line and pulled it through the guide as I took the door off. Once the door was off, I removed one bolt with the nut driver and replaced the cam. I reversed the above actions and replaced the door. It is very important to adjust the door so the seal fits tightly and evenly all round the door. It was a relatively simple procedure that went very smoothly.

I was by myself so I took the entire Fridge door off. Took off the old hinge assembly and installed the new hinge assembly. The process took about 10 minutes and worked like a charm. Door closes like it did 15 years ago.

First, I loosened the top hindge bolts about halfway. Then, I took the bolts out ofthe door and then took the door off. Next I took the bottom hindge off and put the new part on. Then, reassembled the door in reverse. However, I didn't tighten the hindges until I made sure to align the door to close properly.

The magnetic door strip will hold the door in place if the door shelves are unloaded.I removed the bottom hinge with the socket set and installed the new hinge.

First I bought the right tool to remove the hinges.
Then replaced the hinge with the two cams.
Now the door closes itself.

Discovered the door cam was broken. Did a search, found the part on PartSelect.com. Read the repair stories and realized I need two cams. So I just bought the whole hinge assembly figuring it would be a little easier and did not cost that much more.

Put blocks under the door, unbolted the old hinge from the refrig, and the old cam from the door. Replaced them with the new parts, and I was all set. Took about 15 to 20 minutes. Had my wife stand by the door just in case it fell, which I knew it wouldn't.

1.Emptied the stuff from inside of the fridge door.
2.Using a phillips screw driver I removed the plastic cover over the top hinge.
3. Using a small ring spanner I removed the two bolts holding the top hinge (pin), removed the hinge and lifted the door off the bottom pin.
4.Using the same spanner I removed the bottom hinge containing the broken plastic cam.
5.Replaced the broken hinge with the new one and put a little grease on the hinge pin.
6.Placed the new plastic cam on the hinge pin and refitted the door.
7.Replaced the top hinge and plastic hinge cap, Job Done!

A couple of points a) When your plastic cam needs replacing, always buy the hinge pin & plastic cam. The pin has a plastic cam welded to it and as this is the partner of the plastic cam it will also be worn so you should replace them as a pair.
b) You will spend more time cleaning the 'out of the way' parts of the fridge than actually carrying out the repair.

My fridge is now as good as new.

Laid a 3 1/2" block of wood about a foot long under door, pried up door level with other door and used a couple of wedges to hold door up. Used 1/4" sockets and ratchet to remove and reinstall hinge.

Removed all items from the door shelfs.
With the door open, picked up the door and slid it upward as far as it would go. Asked wife to place a stack of books under the door to keep it at the proper height. Removed the lower hinge pin assy. remved the door stop. Installed new componets and reinstalled the door stop. The door was now level with the freezer door.

First issue, I tried to get the top hinge cover off by gently prying. No go. Went to get a step stool and discovered a small screw holding the plastic cover on. At least I didn't break it by prying. I then removed the two top hinge bolts and removed top hinge. I then lifted the door off the bottom hinge.

I then removed the bottom hinge (two bolts) and replaced it with the new hinge with the attached lift cam. (Bottom half of cam)

I then removed the broken lift cam from the bottom of the door, replacing it with the door closing cam included in the hinge assembly package.

Second issue: I did not need to order the DOOR closing cam as a separte item as it came with the hinge assembly package. (There was a warning note in the hinge assembly package to use the door cam included, as new materials had been used and abnormal wear could occure if you didn't replace both pieces of the lift cam)

I set the door back on the bottom hinge, replaced the top hinge and tested. The door would NOT close on it's own. Getting down on my belly I could see resistance of the door light switch was keeping the door from closing. The fix of this issue was to load the door with the normal use items. This provided enough weight to the door and offset the resistance of the switch. EVERY THING WORKED GREAT. Time was 26 minutes from start to finish.

Being as the part is plastic it has a limited life span. But the repair is very easy and anyone can do it. I just proped the door with 2x6's and 1x2's and bolted it in. If you get confused just look at the freezer side to see how it goes, they are the same. It's four bolts and some shims that need to go in the same locations. I'm real happy that there is an online location to get these parts as there is not anywhere to get them where I live.