PTI22MFMRW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

First I shut off the water supply and disconnected the power to the refrigerator. Remove the two finger tabs that are used to for the light swirch and ice/water by pulling straight down. Remove the cover to the dispenser assembly by pulling it out by hand. I removed the four small phillips head screw in each corner of the assembly. Pull the assembly out just enough to expose the circuit board connectors. Note the color of the wires and their position and location. The connectors are different sizes and should not be confused. Remove the two connector by pull them out straight. You can remove the entie assembly , but pay attention to the the water actuator when the assembly is removed entirely to prevent damage. Place the the dispenser assemby on a solid surface and remove the two screws holding the circuit board in place. Pay attention to the position of the black circuit board retainer be fore removing it. The circuitboard should be removed by pryiing gently on each side until it is released. Reverse the procedure for installation of the circuit board..

Nothing to tell it was just a replacement part that the old part was removed and the new one inserted. Works like a dream Thanks

My GE GDS18SBPBLSS is now 21 years old (they do not make them like they used to) so I took extra time to not break any of the brittle old plastics. For this replacement you will only need a Phillips head screwdriver.

Parts list:
2 x PS284959 Fan Motor Grommet
1 x PS2359960 Evaporator Fan Motor Assembly

• The first thing you want to do is to unplug the unit refrigerator to prevent any shorts or the fan from starting while you are handling it.
• The evaporator motor is in the refrigerator section, so leave the freezer door shut to preserve the temperature.
• Open the refrigerator door as much as possible and take out the two vegetable/fruit drawers. If your door is right next to a wall and you cannot open it more than 90 degrees, take the drawer furthest from the door hinge first. Then take out the remaining drawer and gently shimmy the center plastic rail guide to allow you to take it out diagonally.
• The front lip of the floor of the refrigerator is clipped in, so pull the plastic trim forward to remove it. If it does not move, lift the center of the plastic trim piece in front of the screw a bit to convince it loose, but it prying it upwards is not advisable because the ends are under the side walls.
• Once the trim piece is removed, remove the Phillips head screw.
• Pull the plastic floor of the refrigerator towards the front and then up to remove it.
• A large foam block secured down with tape needs to be removed next. Once the tape is loosened, lift the foam out carefully with vapor barrier attached under it. Watch for the two foam pieces at the back wall on each side. If they fall off and drop, find them in the freezer later.
• The fan assembly and bracket will be in view, and my suggestion is to take a photo. This way, you know how it should look when it comes time to reassemble everything.
• To the left rear is a small foam block that is taped down. Removing that will reveal the connector clip for the fan motor’s power line that you squeeze the sides to disconnect. Pull the motor wire out of the foam guide.
• Lift the motor bracket assembly out – it is not attached to anything and sits on the foam block.
• Carefully pull the fan blade off by pulling it straight along the motor shaft.
• Undo the rear motor bracket by unscrewing the two Phillips head screws – the right rear motor bracket screw holds the wire guide in. When undone, take the guide off the wire.
• Once the rear bracket is removed, discard the two motor grommets and the motor.
• Put in the new motor with the new motor grommets into the bracket and screw in the left rear screw.
• Clip on the wire guide on to the new motor wiring and then finish mounting the motor with the right rear screw with the wire guide in place.
• Clean off the fan blade thoroughly before pressing into the shaft. Once on, spin the fan to see if it rotates smoothly and easily. Note: Avoid pressing the fan blade too far down as you do not want it to contact the grommet.
• Place the assembly back into the foam block – use the photo from before as a guide if needed.
• Route the motor cable through the foam groove and clip it into the power connector.
• Plug the refrigerator back in to see if the fan spins and to see that there are no issues. If there are no problems, unplug the unit again and continue the reassembly.
• Place the small foam block back into the rear left to cover the connector area.
• While making sure the vapor barrier is positioned correctly above the coils, put the foam block back into place.
• Clean the plastic floor of the refrigerator and then slide it into place, making sure the back and side are flush. Use the screw hole to align the floor properly and then screw the Phillips head screw back in.
• Clean the front trim piece and then slide it back into place.
• Put the drawers back in.
• Plug the refrigerator back in and leave the door closed for a while so the unit cools the internal temperature back down.

First I remove the 4 screw that connect the control board to the icemaker and then removed two more screws hold the control board in place and unpluged the control board and put the new one in and plugged it back up and put all the screws back and it was done I had no more problems

just had to unscrew old one put the new one in

Just fallow video shows that it 123 !

removed panel from front. removed old circuit. Replaced with new. It worked as hoped. Replacement doesn't get any better than that.

Of course being a women to say I repair my refrigirator is very self gratifying specially when share with other womens like me divorce,having to do on their own, great site, very simple explain on the video with words I could understand, no surprices right to the penny. I save a lot of money, thank you so much, i recomend the site to anybody.

I received the part after doing what was instructed by process of elimination for the problem.I installed it and it still didn't work. I took the part out and called to return it but was told i couldn't because it was now a used part and your company only sells knew parts. Now, I have a circuit board that I have no use for.

I replaced the water solenoid kit,control board and a broken dispenser assembly crank.My repair went well, parts came on time,I watched an R&R video on youtube provided by PartSelect and finished the job in ten minutes. I am one happy do it yourself-er customer.

I removed the nuts holding the cover to the back of the refrigerator.
I removed the main water line to the part.
I then removed the nut holding the old water and valve bracket assembly to the refrigerator.
I removed the wiring harness from the old part and attached it to the new one.
I pressed down on the release to the hoses, pulled them out, and reattached them to the new part.
I reattached the part to the refrigerator.
I reattached the main water line back to the part.
I reattached the cover to the back of the fridge.
I tested the icemaker and water dispenser--and everything worked fine.
And, the best thing was, there was no puddle of water at my feet! Such an easy fix!

I took the ice maker tray out and dumped the ice and then removed 4 screws to take the plastic front off the drawer. I then took 4 more screws out to remove auger assembly. I could now unscrew the broken nut and replace it with the new one and put the snap ring and washer back in place and then put everything back together. Done
Had I had my lathe running at the time I would have made this part out of aluminum instead of the new one and original that is out of plastic which is why it did not last.

The water dispenser on my GE refrig started leaking for about 5 seconds after release of the switch. I replaced the filter and the combination ice/water solenoids. Though this did not solve my problem I did troubleshoot more. I located the water reservoir behind the vegetable drawer. The reservoir mount had broken off. The reservoir had flipped so the water connection was no longer at the top. This was the cause for the continual leak. After mounting the reservoir correctly, the water leak stopped.

The solenoid that opens the ice chute would fire, but the ice auger would not turn in either direction. I verified that the motor was OK by running 120 V to it directly. Changing out the "timer board" was a 15 minute job and did the trick. Ice galore!

replacing the lines was easy, problem was the drawing on line and the parts list did not show two different size tubing used. had to run out for the 5/16 inche tubing for the water dispenser in the door. got the 1/4 inch tube done in 5 minutes.