PDS22MFSC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

turn off ice maker Shut off supply to fridge unplugged fridge unhooked water supply line unplugged harness plug to valve.

Googled the model number of refrigerator with symptoms of "refrigerator wont run". Parts select web site appeared on my screen, opened Parts Select website, Partselect said probable cause of my frige symptom was that the run capacitor usually burns out 51% of the time. They were correct with the diagnosis 100%. I ordered the run capacitor for $23.00, installed it in 10 minutes, refrigerator runs good as new. Thank you for saving me cost of service call. I probably saved $200 or more. I will use Partselect again with my next problem. THANK YOU,

removed the inside fridge electrical panel and swapped switches

Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.

Replacement of the single outlet valve kit went very well. But, water was still not dispensing. I checked if the valve was working by taking the following steps after installing the new valve: unplugging the refrigerator, disconnecting the water line from the underside of the new valve (line to the ice maker), putting a container under the valve to potentially catch water, plugging the refrigerator back in to start the cycle of the ice maker (remember that the cycle will start only if the temperature cold enough). I saw that the valve worked by dispensing water for a short period of time into the container. Taking my chances (with my limited experience), I disassembled the ice maker in the freezer and found that the water line was plugged with ice. So, I really didn't need to replace the valve after all. But, I'm glad I gained some experience.

Changed out the valve the water line hooks to in back of fridge and bingo that was the problem , less them 10 min job.

Removed the old one out and installed the new one in. Wasn't difficult at all.

Easy. Followed the video instrucations. the part was right there next to the compressor.

I started removing the switch by prying on the right side with a screwdriver, when it emerged enough I used pliers to finish removing it. I then unpluged rhe wires from the bad switch and pluged them on the new switch and "poped" it into the hole.

Condenser fan motor was running slow. This was not a problem included in your list of possible problems. I thought that maybe the capacitor was bad but have no way to check it. So I ordered one. when I received it, I installed it. That was not the problem. So I ordered a fan motor and installed it. That was not the problem. So finally I ordered a control board and installed it. That solved the problem. So maybe you should put "cond.fan motor runs slow" in your list of possible faults and what causes that problem. Capacitor was easy to install, simply remove the cover plate, flip off retaining wire, unplug the capacitor and replace. Fan motor was a bit more difficult. It must be removed from mount after fan scroll is removed. Remove one screw that holds scroll, bend the top down and remove. Then pull hard on fan blade to remove it. It must be installed on new motor. Two screws in frame mount can be removed with some effort if you have a 1/4" drive ratchet with a Phillips screwdriver bit. Then pull frame open and install new motor. Push fan blade on new motor shaft hard. Replacing control board was easy. I used a pair of long nose pliers with 90 degree bend to get mounting pins closed to pull board off.

luckly i have a bit of experience in refrigeration im an hvac technician by trade. this repair was a bit tricky in that i did not know at first if it was a Temperature Sensor issue or the main control board. I had tested the defrost termination thermostat and the defrost heater and as i suspected they were ok. Next i wanted to test the thermistors (temp sensors) it is hard to find technical data on these fridges. I needed to test the thermistors resistance @ a certian temperature to ensure they were working properly but where do u get such data? I also wanted to know some information about the logic programmed into the board (i.e when do you initiate defrost etc. . .). I had no such luck so i figured since i tested the defrost heater and thermostat and they were ok and all of the evap fans and such were working i'd order a circuit board and new thermistors. Got the CORRECT PARTS from this site in 2 business days and my fridge is working great! changing the parts was really easy, figuring out which parts to change was the only difficult thing about this job.

The part had cracked before so I was experienced. You need to save all pieces. There's a metal support bar that needs to be taken out of the old one and reinserted. The plastic slides clip in okay but are fragile. Just be careful. I was thankful that the part was under one year warranty. It was replaced and I only had to pay for shipping. Cusomer service is amazing. Thank you

changed sensors did not repair problem,replaced damper with mechanical damper fixed problem.

water runs in now but still does not make cubes. just keeps dripping until I shut the water off.

Followed the repair video, was spot on!!