TFX20BASAAD General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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Needed left and right drawer rails for crisper
I was so pleased to find your website. We have just one company here in Columbia,S.C. that sells refrigerator parts. I did find out that they wanted about $60.00 for both pieces. Needless to say,I was just going to do without. I knew there had to be someone else. I found you guys on line,ordered my parts for a little over $5.00 a piece,and I put them in myself. I'm talking standard GE parts,not knockoffs. I am so pleased. Thanks for being there. I tell everyone about you.
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- Customer:
- alfred from petersburg, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WR9X489
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
low temp due to frost built-up on freezer coils.
UNPLUGGED REFRIGERATOR..
removed top shelf in refrigerator..removed back plate covering controls..removed two screws holding control housing..removed two screws holding defrost timer..unplugged defrost timer and plugged new timer in..put all parts back in place with procedure reversed..
removed top shelf in refrigerator..removed back plate covering controls..removed two screws holding control housing..removed two screws holding defrost timer..unplugged defrost timer and plugged new timer in..put all parts back in place with procedure reversed..
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- Customer:
- Rickey from DUMAS, AR
- Parts Used:
- WR55X24064
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
The lights were on inside however the the water/ice dispenser did not work and the fridge and freezer side was not cooling
Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.
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The Slide rails and kickplate just broken
I replaced all the parts and it was easy. I still need a door drawer that I will get later.
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Refridgerator and freezer would not stay cold and keep getting warmer.Ice was building up behind the back panel in the freezer and blocking the airflow
First i unplugged the refridgerator.Then i removed the freezer shelves and the 4 screws that hold the rear panel in the freezer.Next use a heat gun or hair dryer to melt the ice from the coils making sure not to overheat anything.Be sure to place something in the bottom of the freezer to catch the water and block the hole with something to keep screws from falling in there.
Next,look how the heater element wires are routed so you can get them back the same way or close.Take a picture if you want.Now remove the 2 screws on the end of each element and remove the elements.Replace both even if only one looks bad.The element wire plugs in near the top of the freezer and the thermostat clips onto a metal tube.
Next,look how the heater element wires are routed so you can get them back the same way or close.Take a picture if you want.Now remove the 2 screws on the end of each element and remove the elements.Replace both even if only one looks bad.The element wire plugs in near the top of the freezer and the thermostat clips onto a metal tube.
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- Customer:
- W from Northbrook, IL
- Parts Used:
- WR13X10020
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
The bottom hinge broke
First, I removed all items on the door shelves and the shelves themselves to reduce the weight of the door. The door came off by itself because the bottom hinge had broken. Then I placed the door horizontal on the kitchen floor to have easier access to the bottom of the door. I had a piece of blanket under the door to prevent any scratch. I then removed two screws holding the door closing cam and shim and replaced them with the new parts. Next, I removed the base grill to have easy access to the old hinge assembly on the refrigerator itself. All I had to do was grab it firmly at either end and pull it forward. I replaced the hinge assembly with the new one. I removed the cover on the top hinge assembly and removed the two screws that secured that hinge (I was not able to put the door back without removing the top hinge assembly). All down hill from this point. Time to reinstall the door, aligning the bottom of the door cam over the hinge assembly and setting the door down on it making sure the door sets on the hinge assembly cams. To the top of the refrigerator. reinstalled the top door hinge assembly and cover (I had to make sure the door was standing straight vertically before I tightened the nuts), I also put a small amount of white grease into both the top and bottom hinges.
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- Customer:
- BRIGIDA from MIAMI, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR2X8474
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Refrigerator Water Leak
Icemaker waterline leaking inside by the grommet where the water line comes in the refrigerator . First removed the water line from grommet . Then removed grommet by hand from the fridge. Last, reversed prodedure.
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- Customer:
- June from Maple Valley, WA
- Parts Used:
- WR13X10020
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
After replacing the door seal we saw that the door still did not seal because the lower hinge cam was worn.
Propped the door up with wood so we could change it without removing the whole door.
Removed &Replaced the cam and bracket quite easily. It did require 2 people, one to help hold the door while the other did the work.
Removed &Replaced the cam and bracket quite easily. It did require 2 people, one to help hold the door while the other did the work.
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- Customer:
- George from Harrisburg, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR2X7491, WR2X4540, WR13X10020
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
door hinge shims worn out
The PartSelect web site was able to direct me right to my GE double door frig using the model number. I called in to order the parts that were worn out with some operator assistance finding out all parts were available to my surprise. I received the parts in just a few days. I blocked the door up with some scrap lumber allowing me to take the old hinge off being careful to watch where the old parts were located. I reassembled the new hinge. It all took about 30 minutes and about $40. If I would have called a service repairman it would have easily cost me $100 and with a lot less satisfaction. This is the second time I have used PartSelect with similar results.
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- Customer:
- Eileen from Coto de Caza, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
switchlight on my refrigerator was not working
I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.
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- Customer:
- Dilver from Milton, KY
- Parts Used:
- WR9X489, WR13X10020
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
refridgerater side warming, freezer warming
First I diagnosed the problem being a defrost timer as the symtoms are the same as the heater elements. I installed the timer and it worked great for about a week until the frost build up on the evaporator became too much again and then the symtoms returned. I then checked the heater elements and found that both were bad PLUS two clips to the elements were corroded. I then ordered the 2 heater elements. There is more than 1 heater element. Make sure you measure the length of each and then use the graph picture with "Parts Select" on the new ones before you order. There is about a 2" in length difference. Also one comes in a kit with thermostat and wires. Wrong for me. I really wanted that unit as I needed the harness for the bad terminals but it was the wrong heaters and it also came with a new thermostat. Luckly I did not order that one but did order a new thermostat to make sure I did not have to go through this ordeal again. When the parts came I had already replaced the terminals and was ready to go when FedX came. Just make sure you check your heaters before just buying the defrost timer as it may keep you from going back to redo your repair. Just doing your home work before ordering may save you much time in your repair. "PARTS SELECT" was one day on both orders and I just ordered standard shipping. They are great to do business with.
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- Customer:
- John from San Marino, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR2X4901
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Door wouldn't close properly
First we removed the door. Then we had to hammer the old part off including the old rivot. We fould a screw that fit and put this piece on. We held the door in place and screwed the hinge on the main unit.
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- Customer:
- John from Newport Beach, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR2X4901
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
The fresh food door on the refrigerator would not stay closed
First I took everything out of the fresh food door, then I removed the top hinge cover using a philips head screwdriver, and a nutdriver for the two screws holding the upper hinge. Lifted the door off the bottom pin, and placed it on the floor. Then took off the bottom hinge and used the Dremel tool to grind off the rivet holding the broken door cam on the bottom hinge. Used a nut and bolt to hold the new cam in place, and put the lower hinge back on. Then replaced the other cam on the bottom of the door itself, using the nutdriver. (Be sure to buy two cams, and have the bolt and nut to replace the rivet). Reinstalled the bottom hinge, put the door on, replaced the top hinge, and presto! Works great! Thanks to the others on this site for their stories - really helped make it an easy and quick repair!
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- Customer:
- Randall from Ashburn, VA
- Parts Used:
- WR51X442
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Severe Ice Build Up, But Freezer Temperature Inadequate
I followed the troubleshooting instructions for freezers with ice build-up. First defrost the freezer. This makes a huge mess. The tray for water buildup is very small. I suggest covering the hole so no water gets to the tray and collecting the water as it melts in the freezer. (DO NOT pry the ice off with a knife. I did that when I was 14 and punctured the freon lines.) After the ice was gone inside the freezer, I removed the back panel of the freezer (a pair of 5/16" nuts on the bottom and a pair of #2 phillips screws at the top). The panel will then just pull straight out. Make sure the ice has melted from behind the panel as well before testing any of the components.
First component to check is the defrost timer. Pretty straight forward, using the instructions on the PartSelect home page and a multi-meter (looking for continuity or the lack there of). You need to remove it and check it out of the fridge. In my case the defrost timer worked correctly (bummer since it was much cheaper than the defrost heater kit). Next step was to test the Defrost Heater. I used a common since approach which was not mentioned in the instructions. I manually turned the defrost timer until it clicked. Then I put my hand next to the glass tubes that incased the heater elements. They did not get hot. I then turned the defrost timer until it clicked again. Again, the heater elements did not get hot. Since there are only two setting on the timer, it means the defrost heater was broken. If you can hear the refrigerator/freezer running, then you are not in defrost mode. Turn the thermostat for another click. All noise will stop...and heat should be found at the tubes (behind 6" thin tin covers), if they are functioning.
Removing the defrost heaters and thermostat was simple. There are four #2 screws (2 on each assembly). The thermostat is just clipped on. It is impossible to put the defrost heater assembly in wrong. Put the panel back on and your ready to go. The 30-60 minutes is not repair time but de-ice and repair time. I used a space heater to speed up the de-ice process.
First component to check is the defrost timer. Pretty straight forward, using the instructions on the PartSelect home page and a multi-meter (looking for continuity or the lack there of). You need to remove it and check it out of the fridge. In my case the defrost timer worked correctly (bummer since it was much cheaper than the defrost heater kit). Next step was to test the Defrost Heater. I used a common since approach which was not mentioned in the instructions. I manually turned the defrost timer until it clicked. Then I put my hand next to the glass tubes that incased the heater elements. They did not get hot. I then turned the defrost timer until it clicked again. Again, the heater elements did not get hot. Since there are only two setting on the timer, it means the defrost heater was broken. If you can hear the refrigerator/freezer running, then you are not in defrost mode. Turn the thermostat for another click. All noise will stop...and heat should be found at the tubes (behind 6" thin tin covers), if they are functioning.
Removing the defrost heaters and thermostat was simple. There are four #2 screws (2 on each assembly). The thermostat is just clipped on. It is impossible to put the defrost heater assembly in wrong. Put the panel back on and your ready to go. The 30-60 minutes is not repair time but de-ice and repair time. I used a space heater to speed up the de-ice process.
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- Customer:
- Jeff from Venice, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR2X4901
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Door Not Closing Tightly + Staying Open
Turned off water to ref , removed bottom kick plate , got a towel and disconnected the water line plastic fitting and un screwed the (2) tube clamps un screwed the coupling and ((carefully )) slid out the tube from the compression ferrels ! ( Be careful and do not break or distort them + remember exactly the order they are removed ! Slid the protector spring shroud from the plastic tube , took ogg the top hinge cover then remover the top hinge . Carefully lifted the door off feering the plastic tube through the bottom hinge with my foot ! Got the door off removed the bottom hinge + put the new on on, then removed the door cam which was broken on the bottom of the door , lifted the door up and carefully fed the water line through the new bottom hinge . Attached the top hinge and reassembled the rest same as I had dissambled it . Turned on water ( checked for leaks ) ! All working 100% a-ok ! This company is the best ! Ordered the part at 1 pm and had the part at 2 pm the following day many thanks : )
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