TFF24RRJ General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Laid a 3 1/2" block of wood about a foot long under door, pried up door level with other door and used a couple of wedges to hold door up. Used 1/4" sockets and ratchet to remove and reinstall hinge.

Removed the refrigerator door. Replaced the cam riser bushing on the bottom of the door. I then removed the hinge bracket on the bottom of the refrigerator after removing the grill (oh yuk, what a mess under the refrigerator). I put the new bracket on and replaced the door. All is working well again. Thanks for the hints and the parts.

This door was a problem for 1-2 years before I realized it had dropped about 2 inches. On close examination I saw that the hinge parts had completely broke down.
Had original manual-looked up model # on line under GE appliance and was surprised to find a large complete parts dwg showing parts I needed. Decided I needed the hinge assy.
Removed the door cap on top,replaced hinge assy and remounted door in reverse.--Works like new.

My job pretty much paralled the no. one on this list,I am a retired industrial electrician and have many years experience doing similar jobs.Went very well. . Tom Pennington of Muncie Indiana

Just watch the Parts Select YouTube videos on replacing the door hinges. That helped a lot.

All I needed was a phillips head screw driver and a 5/16ths socket wrench. Easy after watching the video a few times.

First issue, I tried to get the top hinge cover off by gently prying. No go. Went to get a step stool and discovered a small screw holding the plastic cover on. At least I didn't break it by prying. I then removed the two top hinge bolts and removed top hinge. I then lifted the door off the bottom hinge.

I then removed the bottom hinge (two bolts) and replaced it with the new hinge with the attached lift cam. (Bottom half of cam)

I then removed the broken lift cam from the bottom of the door, replacing it with the door closing cam included in the hinge assembly package.

Second issue: I did not need to order the DOOR closing cam as a separte item as it came with the hinge assembly package. (There was a warning note in the hinge assembly package to use the door cam included, as new materials had been used and abnormal wear could occure if you didn't replace both pieces of the lift cam)

I set the door back on the bottom hinge, replaced the top hinge and tested. The door would NOT close on it's own. Getting down on my belly I could see resistance of the door light switch was keeping the door from closing. The fix of this issue was to load the door with the normal use items. This provided enough weight to the door and offset the resistance of the switch. EVERY THING WORKED GREAT. Time was 26 minutes from start to finish.

Discovered the door cam was broken. Did a search, found the part on PartSelect.com. Read the repair stories and realized I need two cams. So I just bought the whole hinge assembly figuring it would be a little easier and did not cost that much more.

Put blocks under the door, unbolted the old hinge from the refrig, and the old cam from the door. Replaced them with the new parts, and I was all set. Took about 15 to 20 minutes. Had my wife stand by the door just in case it fell, which I knew it wouldn't.

Part no. Ps290199 received matched part no. Ordered, which I obtained from your web site, however, part did not exactly match oem part. It was necessary to drill a new top hole in each of the hinges. New hole center was drilled 1/2" off (lower) then hole in supplied part. Jpb could have been accomplished easily by the avg. Homeowner, but the drilling required a little more skill & possible some tools that an average homeowner does not possess. Otherwise job was relatively easy and satisfactorily completed.

blocked up refrigerator door.removed old hinge, and put new one on,with socket set.

This is a side-by-side unit. After blocking up the closed refrigerator door to the correct height to match the freezer door, I removed the lower hinge pin assembly by taking out two bolts. Save the shims (my had two) for the new hinge pin. Then remove the cam riser from the bottom of the door by taking out two bolts. Install the new cam riser on the bottom on the door. Then install the new hinge pin assembly. Total time 15 minutes.

It was really easy for me....my son told me what part I needed. I ordered it, and he installed it!

Removed top hinge assembly to pull door away from bottom hinge (2x hex bolts) Discovered that the pin on the bottom assembly had broken off. Removed and replaced bottom hinge assembly (2x hex bolts). Aligned door with top and bottom hinge pins. Tightened all hex bolts. Done

I followed the many post on replacing this part and everything went well. I had a little trouble getting the hinge post into the new hinge assembly, but with a slight adjustment it fell into place. I checked to see what tools I would need to do the job and had them ready before I even started. I removed the door and had it back on in maybe 10 minutes and I am not exactly Mr. Fix It. The only advice I can add to what everyone else has said is you should look the job over a little before you take the door off and have your tools ready. Then you won't have the door off for too long. I'd like to thank this site and everyone who gave advice on how to fix this problem. It made the whole job very easy.

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

Followed the video to replace bottom hinge assembly. The only hiccup was that the video instruction was for the fridge side door, so there wasn't step by step instruction for dealing with the electrical connection at the top of door or the water line at the bottom. However, it was simple enough to figure out. Replacement took about 20-25 mins.