TBE21ZRERWH General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Basically I removed 4 screws holding the rails together, did a little cleaning of the existing parts that I would re-use and screwed the 4 screws back in and put it back into the fridge. Piece of cake. If I hadn't cleaned up the old parts it would have taken me 5 minutes.

I ordered the part, within two days we had received it. My husband put the part in and I really don't know what he used doing so. All I know is that the light works now and we don't have to use the flashlight. Thanks a lot.

it was so easy I need to put an ad online to replace gaskets got the right part on time get fit

Took out both draws and glass shelf, removed the entire lower shelf housing. I snapped off the front rail aluminum face to expose the screw. Unscrewed both screws and removed the rail and then just reversed the procedure to put new rail on. It was the most cost effective way of doing it. All the pieces are there on the GE website as long as you know the model number. You will save a lot of money by doing it yourself.

I had to remove the glass shelve, the two drawers, and the middle rail. Once I did that, I slide the unit out together. I placed the unit on the floor and removed the one screw located on the far backside of the unit. I had to remove a slip cover (it had the kenmore logo and the writting on it) it was a snap on, so no problem. Glad it was not gluded on. After the old part was removed, I put the new part on. Put the two screws back on and snap the cover back on. Then I put the whole unit back in. This included the glassshelve and drawers. The process was pretty easy. Good luck with your change.

Placed new gasket into dryer,( recommended by 2 u tubes) high heat for about 10 minutes and was a snap getting softened gasket into little tiny slot actual placement was done twice as there was a twist in the seal i missed the first time so did do twice but was so easy this way was almost sad thinking it would have been 100$ deductible having someone do it and who knows what normal cost would have been......thanks u tube

Repair was super simple. Everything was a direct fit. Hardest part was unloading freezer to access evap motor. My freezer was old making my wire shields very brittle so I cut the shielding and used heat shrink tubing for a neat clean repair.

with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP

Unplugged fridge.Removed 2 screws holding a panel. After panel removed took off old fan and inserted new. Quite simple.

1- youtubed the potential diagnoses, 2- resourced and ordered parts, 3- removed old socket, installed new one :-)... My fridge is an older fridge and could've used a screwdriver for eyeglasses. Plug and play easy... YAY!

Allow 24 hours for new gasket to flatten out from packaging. Gently peel off existing gasket. Clean dirt and mold from mount area.
Mount gasket beginning at a corner. Press gasket into place every inch around perimeter. Done! Water is no longer in bottom of refrigerator and it is running more efficiently (less time running) due to the fact that it can maintain the temperature for longer periods of time.

Removed drawers and glass shelf. Removed screws that hold old slide rails in place. Installed new rails and re-installed cover for vents. Placed assembly back in and installed drawers.

I watched videos of the modern refrigerators and figured out how to do my model by taking my time watching as many videos that pertain to my refrigerator I finally I expose the evaporator I noticed that the defrost heater was buckled up and totally disintegrated and slowly took my time looking at the screws I took it out and I didn't have to do
disassemble bottom of the freezer to replace the part, you definitely had to have common sense and to be mechanically inclined to do this repair otherwise it was easy

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

Removed freezer door then refrigerator door. Layed it on a big drop cloth to work on it. Replace feeezer door and cover refrigerator opening with plastic or something to help keep the cold in.
Removing old gasket was easy. Just pull it out. Align the new gasket with metal bracket that holds it then firmly hammer it into place. You’ll know when it’s attached correctly cause it hugs the door properly.