GSS20DBPMWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Aurelio from MAYS LANDING, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
clickking sounds
Unplugged unit.. Removed control board cover.. Removed all plugs from control board then removed board its self.. Replaced in reverse order.. Unit is working as new..
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- Customer:
- randall from coopersville, MI
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
refriderator not cooling consistetly
1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Coto de Caza, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Interior Light did not go on due to faulty switch
I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.
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- Customer:
- doyle from kingston, WA
- Parts Used:
- WR50X10068
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
freezer was freezing up.
took the back off and defrosted with a hairdryer. disconected the part pulled the part out cut the wires. put the other part on and instaled it. put it back together and it seems to be working just fine. thank you
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- Customer:
- Cecilia from NATALIA, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Freezer would not freeze and fridge would not cool after power outages
I used a volt/ohm meter and checked for power to compressor and start run relays, diagnosis- was remove and replace motherboard
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- Customer:
- Rudolph from Arroyo Grande, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR51X10101
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
evap coil freezing up every 2 weeks
removed 2 - 1/4" screws and 2 phillip screws to take off the evap cover, then 2 phillip srews to take out the defrost heater assembly, replaced and put everything back together. no problem.
I GOT THE PART SO FAST THAT I WAS SURPRISED TO SEE IT THERE!
I GOT THE PART SO FAST THAT I WAS SURPRISED TO SEE IT THERE!
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- Customer:
- Pat from Pensacola, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
No ice or water at the despenser. Compressor would turn off when the dispenser lever was pushed. There was also a loud buzzer sound for a couple of weeks prior to the board failing.
Pulled out the fridge and unplugged electric cord. Took off the back lower right side panel. Unplugged all the connectors and removed the motherboard. Replaced the motherboard and reconnected connectors. Replaced the panel and plugged it in. Works great!
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- Customer:
- LEE from WILMINGTON, DE
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
clicking nose from mother board
pulled the board away from the 4 plastic pins, unplugged the wires and plugged them directly into the new noard, pushed board back onto the four plastic pins.......job completed in under 5 minutes. Fridge working fine now for over a week......no problems.
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- Customer:
- John from Holly Springs, NC
- Parts Used:
- WR50X10068
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Fridge getting warer and warmer
remove back panel inside fridge freezer side, everything frosted, unplug and used a hair dryer
1. Took out defrost heater and the bottom and tested (per this site) tested OK.
2. Then looked at the defrost thermostat, it was swollen with the top coming off. so i new it was bad
3.clipped and stripped the 2 wires, spliced in the new one with wire nuts and sealed them with silicone. All better
1. Took out defrost heater and the bottom and tested (per this site) tested OK.
2. Then looked at the defrost thermostat, it was swollen with the top coming off. so i new it was bad
3.clipped and stripped the 2 wires, spliced in the new one with wire nuts and sealed them with silicone. All better
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- Customer:
- Rickey from DUMAS, AR
- Parts Used:
- WR55X24064
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
The lights were on inside however the the water/ice dispenser did not work and the fridge and freezer side was not cooling
Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.
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- Customer:
- charles from SCOTTSDALE, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Defrost not working coil iced up
Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.
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- Customer:
- Jerry from Grass Lake, MI
- Parts Used:
- WR51X10101
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
freezer coils would freeze
Turned the power of to the fridge took the food out of the freezer put in the fridge took out all the shelves and took off the panel to get to the coils. I used a hair dryer and a shop vac to defrost the coils used the shop vac to suck up the water as the ice melted also put some paper towel in the drip tube so the water would not go to the drip pan. Took off old defrost heater which was a single heater the new on was a double heater fished out the blue wire from the left side of compartment and ran it down the right side plugged both wires into the heater mounted it into place and put everything back. Turned on fridge and it has been working fine ever since. Thanks for the last person that did this I read his review and it really was that easy
Thanks Jerry
Thanks Jerry
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- Customer:
- Kevin from BENSALEM, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR60X10220, WR60X10207, WR02X10098
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Noise from Condensor Fan and Fan Motor.
I watched the video provided by PartSelect twice, then proceeded with the removal and installation. It took me 40 minutes from start to finish. Piece of Cake. Everything works fine now.
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- Customer:
- William from Wylie, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Not cooling, Defrost issues, whining loud noises
Unbolted the back cover, pulled out old board, replaced with new bored and powered back on. It is working great now.
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- Customer:
- Terry from The Villages, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Refridgerator was not cooling
First, I removed the cover plate from behind the fridge. Next, I carefully pulled the main board out (four little clips holding it in) and disconnected the plug in wires. I connected the wires to the new board, popped it back in place and replaced the cover. Very easy to do.
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