GTS18CMFRWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Frig and freezer were defrosting and refreezing other than normal. Home warranty contractor told me ice maker was faulty. Purchased new ice maker. Unplugged frig, loosened 2 screws with nut driver. unplugged old ice maker, lifted old ice maker out. Took old fill cup off old unit and put on new unit since new fill cup was a different size. Swapped ice maker insert from old to new unit. Plugged in new ice maker, slid over the 2 screws, tightened, and plugged in frig power. New ice maker works fine but still have defrosting and refreezing problem. Figure old ice maker probably works just fine. New contractor still trying to solve problem. Have had problems with this GE Monagram keeping proper temps since it was new in 2005, don't recommend it.

Pulled out the control sensor on the ceiling of the fridge. (2 screws) Took a picture with phone on how everything was installed. Unplugged all wires and pulled out Control Temp sensor. Installed new one and attached all wires. Installed back in fridge and plugged it back in. Everything works like new.

First I removed the 4 screws in the back of the freezer. I then pulled the connection from the fan , I replaced the fan to the connection, replaced the 4 screws and I was done! I still can't believe how simple it was.

Shut off power to the refrige. Removed old icemaker, using large hammer. Installed new unit.

Look were timer was located, in my refigerator is next to the dial to ajust the temperature. used a screwdriver to get panel off. replaced timer then used a straight screwdriver to advance timer to turn on compessor . monitor temperature . checked out.

No instructions came with new parts. Access to element was impossible until I accidentally discovered that the two styrofoam cushions at the ends of the coils were removable. Once removed, access to the heater and thermostat was very easy.

Unplug appliance, remove freezer shelf, cold air ducts, back of freezer, disconnect light, (My model does not have ice maker. This may also need to be disconnected.)
1.Remove styrofoam cushions at end of coils
2.Locate element between bottom two coils
3.Disconnect the male/female connections
4.Remove support clip under center of element
5.Remove element
6.Replace new element in reverse

Connecting the thermostat wires was challenging because they were somewhat behind the coils.

1.With styrofoam removed, unclip thermostat from coil
2.Carefully cut wires (leave enough to connect new wires)
3.Connect new thermostat wires (color of wires matched on my fridge)
4.Clip new thermostat in place
5.Replace styrofoam
6.Button it all up

With these steps, this job would take maybe 30 minutes; somewhat longer if your model has an icemaker.

Hope this helps.

The valve is not a direct replacement,seems they
are not available,had to bend mtg. brkt. so valve
would mount in same position and cut off screw
type pressure fitting so could slide discharge
tube into new type connection, no instructions
come with replacement valve,asked several
places for info wanted to be sure before cutting
off end of discharge tube. Now valve shuts off
but water still in base of refrigerator must be a
leak in inlet tube behind freezer compartment.

Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.

New ice maker only used 2 screws and the old one had 3. This was no problem. The old ice maker had already been removed. Just loosen the 3 screws and unplug the cord to ice maker. Only problem with ice maker was with the cord, which I had to use the supplied adapter. It was too long and in the way when reinstalling the ice bin. The ice bin had a small notch area on the bottom left. I used a plastic tie to bundle the cord into the notch. Carefully placed ice bin and no problem. The first part I received was damaged and was replaced 2 days later by a brand new part. Customer service charged for the replacement part but said they would credit my charge card within 2 to 3 weeks for the damaged part. Its been a week and if they follow thru like the said I woild give Part Select 5 Stars for service and Parts.

Remove the two nuts holding the top of the unit to the side of the freezer using a 1/4 in nutdriver. Pull the unit out and unplug it from the back of the freezer. Remove all pieces of the broken stripper. The replacement part fits onto a peg on the back of the icemaker and into a slot. Bend into place and slide into position.

Referenced a couple of videos first, held up the new gasket to ensure fit, then carefully pulled the old gasket off by hand. Wiped down the ridges/edges of the door, then installed new gasket first on opposite corners then along all sides. Simply pressed in to the door ridges/bracket. Used a putty knife to ensure the edge of gasket was not folded under itself, and the blunt edge of the handle to ensure it was snugly installed all the way around. Didn’t have to remove the door as I had expected to. Very easy and took maybe 30 mins.

I removed one screw to loosen the cardboard panel that covered the old valve and one screw to remove the valve assembly. I disconnected the two wiring connections and unscrewed the two water line connections. Replacement was really easy since the bracket was the same as the old valve. The down stream water connection was different for the new (push in) than the old (threaded) but I cut the old threaded connector off and figured out that the new push in connection was solid (directions would have really helped here) Reconnected the inlet tubing and electrical wires and replace the panel and it was done.

just unscrewed the 3 screws, attached the rounded plug that came with the unit and screwed back only 2 screws. ice magic in about a couple of hours

I removed the fan housing , this was the hardest part , this took loosining two screws and snapping the housing loose , and there it was , settin there Idle and the coils were all ice , I let the coils thaw while I unscrewed the fan mount from the back wall of the freezer , then pulled the fan and mount out far enough to snap the wire connector loose, then I removed the two screws that hold the motor to the mount , the new fan motor comes without the blade so the blade is removed by pulling fairly had on the center off the shaft , the old motor is taken out of the mount , the new one replaces it perfectly , then the screws are replaced and tightenen , then the blade is pushed back on the shaft , the motor and mount are placed back on the back wall of the freezer department and screwed in place , the wires connected , then the housing is snapped back in place and the screws tightened , turn the dial to cool or number 2 or 3 and " bingo " it,s just like new , I can thank part select for speedy service and delivery

While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope