GDS20SCSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

removed the back cover about 7 screws then removed the fan shroud the top part folds down and then slide to the right and angle down. remove to two screws holding the motor in spread apart the plastic housing to remove the wire connector. unclip connector .

luckly i have a bit of experience in refrigeration im an hvac technician by trade. this repair was a bit tricky in that i did not know at first if it was a Temperature Sensor issue or the main control board. I had tested the defrost termination thermostat and the defrost heater and as i suspected they were ok. Next i wanted to test the thermistors (temp sensors) it is hard to find technical data on these fridges. I needed to test the thermistors resistance @ a certian temperature to ensure they were working properly but where do u get such data? I also wanted to know some information about the logic programmed into the board (i.e when do you initiate defrost etc. . .). I had no such luck so i figured since i tested the defrost heater and thermostat and they were ok and all of the evap fans and such were working i'd order a circuit board and new thermistors. Got the CORRECT PARTS from this site in 2 business days and my fridge is working great! changing the parts was really easy, figuring out which parts to change was the only difficult thing about this job.

followed part select video instructions

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.

Detached the old part from the refrigerator and disconnected the low voltage quick connect. Also disconnected the water line to the Ice Maker. Reinstalled the new part in the order it was disconnected and re attached the water line feed to the valve threaded connection. Turned water on and no problems.

Move unit out to access rear. Unplug unit. Shut off water supply. Remove lower cover with phillips screwdriver. Remove valve and both water lines. Install water lines back into new valve and install valve back into position. Turn on water supply and check for leaks. Install cover. Plug unit back into wall. Let icemaker produce some cubes to make sure everything is working correctly before pushing unit back into position. Very easy!

I monitored the ice maker after it stopped working and noticed it was not filling with water. I loosened the water feed hose to the single valve outlet and the water feed was fine. However, the single valve outlet never activated to turn on the water feed. I disconnected the waterfeed and electrical connection from the single valve outlet and removed it. Replaced it with the new one, reconnected the water feed valve and electrical connection....allowed the ice maker to cycle and it started filling the ice maker with water right away. The unit is functioning fine now. Thanks to Select parts for filling my parts order fast and accurately. Regards.....E. Tew

Replaced all the sensors in both the feezer and refrigerator.Even though it colder now it still is not cold enough.Freezer won't freeze items but is cold and refrigerator still not real cold

Googled the problem, came across this site where I learned what needed to be done to fix. Checked the part price, looked just for couriosity at the price from GE, it was WAY more expensive. Ordered the part, it arrived super fast, and shipping was next to nothing. The part came in, I replaced it. I made my husband so proud!!!

Replaced valve kit and let it run. Took a day for the fill line to thaw and has been making ice like a champ.

I ordered the valve, which came only a day later. Mine is really simple because it only has one water line and one electrical plug in. I do not have a separate water filter. First, I unplugged the refrigerator and shut off the water supply. I unscrewed the cardboard piece from the lower part of the back of the fridge and freed the valve. I pulled out the top water tube that goes from the valve to the top of the fridge, that connects into the back of the ice maker. That tube was empty and dry - I blew through it to make sure that it was unobstructed, and it was. No water was getting to that tube at all. I pulled out the plugs from the valve, and unscrewed the water line from the valve and let that drain in the bucket. I had drained as much water in the lines as I could by flushing a toilet and turning on the sink until it seemed the water supply that was left in the pipes was low. Then I just did the reverse putting together everything with the new valve. I screwed back in the water line that runs from the wall to the fridge. I pushed in the water hose line into the valve until it was all the way in. It was uneven and frayed at the end of that thin hose line, so I cut it very straight across the bottom so it would be entirely flush when it was pushed all the way into the valve. Then I inserted the plug back into the new valve. I put everything back in place, plugged in the fridge and turned on the water supply. I had left the fridge out off the wall so I could check for any leaking. I left it overnight and by morning I had ice! It was so easy. My only difficulty was pulling out the thin water hose from the valve. I did not realize that you can push down on the circular rim and the hose just slips out. I think I saved a lot of money.

With help from this site, It was one of three things. I thought it might be what this site suggested the most common and it was. the valve in back of refrigerator at bottom. Water comming to it, but not getting past. Ordered part. Was here in a few days. Real easy to change out. A few screw / bolts and one wire that fit only one way. I did have to bend new bracket to make it fit. Now have lots of ice cubes!

Replaced single outlet valve for the ice maker

took out shelves and removed the back plate my removing 2 screws with a nutdriver.removed the old defrost timer and defrost heater which was really easy.then installed the new ones.the video i watched on the website was really helpfull.

per your instructions