F44L21CCD0 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed front low grill, removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. Reversed process to install new timer.

Removed broken and installed nw part.

take 1/4 hex screws out clean out dust ,remove old fan blade replace with new install bolts .

Website was great!

The defrost timer was right in front. 2 minutes and a screwdriver and I had it replaced.

To replace the thermostat, I had to take out the back panel, defrost it and then install the new part. the only problem was that the heatshrink tubing they sent was too large. Otherwise, it worked great.

took 4 screws out of the discharge vent on top of the refrigerator section and unpluged the wiring harness and put the section on the counter and unscrewed the timer and put the new one in and reinstalled the assembly and plugged the Jack and put the 4 screws back in, and rotated the timer and put it on defrost removed the back and check the heaters and drain .

just like the video showed...it was excellent!!!

It snapped in place.

Slipped out the end caps with the broken prongs from the front rack and slipped in the new end caps. (3 mins.)

Working with Parts Select really made this repair possible, and I never left the house.Less than 5 mins, on there site and the parts were on there way . Rick

took out the old shelf and put the new one in

I put the model number in the browser bar of internet and your site among others popped up.I was thrilled to find that you still supply this older model refrigerators hardware items. After Comparing prices, your site also listed the best price. The pictures you show of hardware I was needing was extremely helpful as it gave me assurance I was ordering the right product.From purchase to Delivery of item at my door a couple days later was a simple and fast. I was able to snap in new end cap brackets that hold the cross bar which holds back frozen foods in door compartment from falling out.

removed everything from door, removed screws in gasket around door, laid door face down(insulation side up)applied rtv around edge of gasket and door, waited 10 minutes and started with top screw in middle of top then middle of sides and bottom then installed remaining screws checked levelness of refrigerator, the you are done

Emptied freezer, removed fan motor cover (2 screws), removed fan and motor (2 screws), removed old motor from bracket and reassembled with new motor, transferred fan blade from old motor to new), re-installed new fan/motor (2 screws) and reinstalled cover...

Unplug the refrigerator. Removed the right hand top shelf. Used a 1/4" nutdriver to remove rear center mounting screw for Control Housing. Used Phillips screwdriver to remove two mounting screws for timer. Unplug cable from timer and plug it into the new timer. Install the new timer and re-install the Control Housing. Plug in the refrigerator and adjust the timer to start the unit. This was a snap with the diagnostic provided by Part Select. At first I thought it was the fan rubbing but when I removed the cover (two screws) it was obvious that wasn't the problem. The diagnostic hinted that it was either the timer or the motor capacitor making the noise. Because the noise continued after turning OFF the control, I thought it was the timer...I was right.

Unplug the refrigerator unit from wall. I removed freezer rack, plastic light cover, the ice rack shelf on the right side, then removed the plastic back cover panel, (4) retaining screws, gently tilting the panel toward me, unplug the wiring harness by depressing the clips on the side of the plug, removed panel from unit, set aside. If the unit was froze up, so I defrosted the cooling coils carefully with a common hair dryer until it was thawed. Be careful not to touch or bend the coils , since they are very fragile and SHARP! I located the old thermostat unit attached to a straight length of coolant line. The new unit looked like the old one, so it was easy to locate. I cut the two wires of the old unit close to the round base to make sure I would have enough wire to reconnect. Since my new unit did not indicate a polarity(Neg or Pos), I just wired each wire I cut to one of the new unit. I used the shrink tubing provided and heated the shrink till it was fully melted. I double ck'd to see if the wires were basically waterproof and a good connect. Also, before I replaced the rear panel, I made sure that both wires I had spliced had a drip loop to it so water would not drip down into the newly spliced union. Also made sure the wires will not interfere with the colling fan on the back of the rear panel. Reverse the procedure in reassembling. Plug in unit, and wait and listen for the unit coming back on..I kept a regular thermometer in the upper and lower compartments. Allow 24 hrs. for the unit to return to normal operation. It may defrost several times till the whole operation is back in sync.