MRT13CRED3 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

removed freezer door and installed the new one. This was a pretty easy thing to do, although putting the old handle on the new door was a challenge. No knowing that there is a plastic piece holding the top of the handle i broke the that piece and had to order another one. Mean while the freezer was making alot of frost inside, so that had to be cleaned after the new part came.

From most posts I've read, the defrost timer was the culprit so I blindly ordered one. Easy install but did not fix the problem so I broke out the ohm meter. The only other 2 items it could be all tested good with my meter so I bypassed the defrost thermostat (per forum help...actually quite easy)and it defrosted fine, which told me I needed a new defrost thermostat. Installed fairly easy and problem gone.

removed the screws/nuts; pulled the back panel off, removed the old thermostat (wires just popped apart) replaced the new thermostat (wires just popped back on) replaced the back panel and the nuts and TaDa!!

Had to remove all screws on rear back cover of freezer inside, unplugged refridgerator, uncliped thermostat, unpluged thermostat. Replaced thermostat with new one in the same location, and let defrost fulley. Reassembled, pluged in, and tested. All was good. But I did also replace timer at first part of the repair so I suggest you replace both at the same time.

I used the tool at Partselect that in theory allows diagnostic of the problem to be repaired. The result was that more tan 90% of the time with the introduced symptoms it had to be the thermostat. I order the part, got it quickly and installed. It did not fix the problem. So, be careful with the diagnostic tool, because it is just based on what most people buy when they have a particular problem. Videos for installation are great. If diagnosis was better, this would be fantastic. In my case there might be a different problem.

Removed the back panel in freezer compartment with the nut-driver. Then I cut off old thermostat connections, and spliced in new thermostat connections (repairman had already replaced defrost timer, and said not to trust connectors included on wires-they failed often). Then I snapped thermostat itself onto cooler coil. So far so good, fridge is running at 35-40 degrees a week later. Thanks Parts-Select!!!

I used a flat head screwdriver to pry open the front of the socket as I pushed the socket toward the freezer side. I unplugged the two wires connected to the socket then re-connected the two wires to the new socket and popped the new socket back in. I then put a new light bulb in and we had light again in the fridge.

Found the part on this site ordered and received part in 3 days. Took approx. 10 min to replace. Thanks for the quick service.

the repair went fast and easy. my boyfried measured the retainer bar, cut it with the hack saw installed the right and left side door shelf end cap and inserted the door shelf retain bar. the door looks great. would highly recommend your website and customer service. thanks again.

I replaced the shelf end caps in the shelves of my fridge and I also replaced the gasket around the door.

Every time I would open the door, things would fall out because the shelves were giving, because the end caps were broken. Once I got the new ones, I was amazed that these parts are still available and that they lock right in with no problem. Once you get one in, you then have to place one end of that retaining bar into that, very tightly, making sure the end is completely secure in the cap. Then you can lock the other cap to the other end, lock it into place in the door and whala! It is just that simple.


Now the gaket is another story, it is best to soak the gasket in hot water first to draw it up abit so it will be snug and also to use lubricant such as petroleum around the inside where it is going to fit to the door. This made it extremely easy to afix to my door with no problems. I am so glad for this site.. hundreds of dollars saved!!

Use the rubber brushing to fill the gap.

After realizing the engineering on this dryer was different, I was able to access the temperature control thermostat through the front, along the side of the heating element. Several philips screws hold the front on, removing them allows you to take front panel off. At that point the heating element is below. I took a picture of the wires, so that when I started removing them, it would be easy to reconnect. Two screws hold the heating element in place, upon removing the heating element housing pulls gently forward and out, be careful of the wires, the thermostat is the second thing connected to the housing of the heating element. Two more philips screws hold the housing to the bottom of the dryer. Two wires are removed from thermostat, which is also held in place by two philips screws. Remove wires, one at a time and place on thermostat exactly as they were on old thermostat. Hold new thermostat in place with the two Philip screws, and reassemble in reverse order. And enjoy your working dryer once more, hopefully for years to come.

Pulled the few end caps off the retainer bars, pushed the new ones in, and used a medium hand strike to seat the end caps in the doors slots.

unplug power from ref removed old light socket only difference wired a little different checked new socket compaired to old checked terminal ends small big looked at wires big,little plugged up put in new light blub plugged ref power back on work power off pushed socket bac in power on works

Needed to saw the pieces. PUrchased hacksaw.
Son sawed the pieces. Went in like a piece of cake.