LGUS2642LM2 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

I ordered the parts by studying the diagram and they were perfect. Thanks for making it so easy.

2 steps; 1. I removed the broken door bin 2. I slid the new door bin in place, Am I a genius or what!

Remove the bottom freezer drawer. Remove back metal evaporator panel. Wire in new defrost terminationT-stat. Reassemble evap panel. Good to go.

I took the side cover off. With a Phillips unscrewed the screw, took the outer part off, with nut driver undid the two screws. Took the part out in screwed the 4 Phillips head screws. Took out the broken part, replaced with new part. Reassembled. Put filter in and it now works perfectly.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Looked at video on how to remove and reinstall support and followed the instruct ions

removed fan unit from frig and installed new motor and then replaced back in frig. No tools needed. need to unplug unit and take apart and put new motor in the unit and then plug back in.

Removed the frame around the ice/water dispenser by hand. Removed the back cover- 4 screws. Removed the module- 2 screws. Unhooked 2 wires for the module. Install the wires back onto the new module & reinstall back onto the refrigerator. Very simple fix. Probably saved $200. on cost of labor.

Replaced the top crisper drawer frame. Installation was very easy. The hardest part was cleaning all of the spilled food/liquid items from under the drawers once removed to replace the top frame. I will keep the top frame and repair it. From what I have read, this is a very common problem as there is no support in the middle of the frame...it is only plastic.

Support studs have an expansion fitting - center post has to be pushed through to allow expansion joint to collapse for removal. After installation, this post can be pushed in or pulled out to secure the stud and be the proper length to hold the bins.

None of this was obvious - an online tip from another member was invaluable.

This was a replacement part, a simple snap in. What really impressed me was the PartSelect web site and the ease of locating the part and making sure it was the right one. Finally, the price beat out all the others. Since this tray looked like others on the same unit, I needed the details, the different view angles and dimensions to make sure it was correct. No other web site was even close in ease of use or in providing such details. I know I won't waste my time at PartSelect and I've always gotten the right part at the best price.

Remove the screws that hold the old valve to the side of the refrigerator. Next, detach each plastic tube and attach that tube to the same place on the new valve, and repeat (there are many valves). Afterward, I realized that many of the plastic tubes had become brittle and had mineral deposits, so I bought additional tubing for ice makers and replaced each tube, one at a time.

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.

Pull refrigerator from wall and disconnect the water line and unplug the power.

On top of the icemaker, two machine screws hold the icemaker to the side of the refrigerator. You will have to feel around to find the machine screws, but once you do, it is simple to slip the appropriate size socket over the hex heads. I found it helpful to have an extension on the socket wrench. Disconnect the power cable inside the refrigerator (there are little pressure clips on the side that help release the cable) and move it out of the way for the time-being.

Back out both machine screws several turns, but do not remove them completely. The icemaker slips over the screws, so leaving them in the side of the refrigerator makes that process a lot easier. Hand tighten the machine screws once you have positioned the new icemaker in place. One thing to be sure and do is make sure the water line hose coming out of the back of the refrigerator inside is on top of the icemaker. It fits into a slot in the top of the icemaker - failing to do this will result in water pouring into the freezer compartment, not into the icemaker..

Reconnect the power cable to the new icemaker and tuck it up behind the icemaker assembly. Tighten the machine screws completely, but do not over-tighten.

Reconnect the water line on the back of the refrigerator at the wall, and plug in the refrigerator. You should hear the unit fill immediately.

In about an hour you should have ice filling the bin. Enjoy!

I broke off remainder of clip, and used phillip
screwdriver and pushed pin into wall. I lined up new support and pushed in peg to secure