FFHS2311LWGA Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

The repair was easy. It just required a little time and patience. There are about a half dozen screws to remove and three of them are very small. I woild suggest a phillips head screwdriver with a magnetic tip for the small screws. They can easly fall into the control unit and be hidden. If they happen to fall, a small pen-type magnet that is expandable will make it easy to retrieve. I used a small set of needle-nose pliers to replace the small metal plates over the plastic pins that hold the water actuator in place. If your are careful, this repair can be done without disconnecting any of the electrical wiring.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Looked at video on how to remove and reinstall support and followed the instruct ions

Support studs have an expansion fitting - center post has to be pushed through to allow expansion joint to collapse for removal. After installation, this post can be pushed in or pulled out to secure the stud and be the proper length to hold the bins.

None of this was obvious - an online tip from another member was invaluable.

Replaced the Triple Water Valve

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.

I removed the drip tray, exposing the screws on the bottom of the dispenser panel. I removed the three screws and lifted upon the panel to pull it out of the opening. From there I unplugged the power cord to release the old panel. I removed the power module from the old panel and installed it into the new panel. I then reattached the power plug and put it back in place. I screwed it back in and inserted the new drip tray.

Turn off ice maker
Slide wire harness shield off connector
Disconnected harness
Loosened 2 wall screws
Remove old ice maker
Installed new one reversing process

It was very simple-it is just an insert glass shelf above the vegetable drawers. But, it was fairly easy to identify on your website and delivered in about two days.

I broke off remainder of clip, and used phillip
screwdriver and pushed pin into wall. I lined up new support and pushed in peg to secure

Removed ice tray, disassembled ice tray assembly and crusher housing making sure to note the spring location, spring etc, installed new plastic housing making sure to reinstall the spring properly and the fixed crusher blade into the notch cutout., reassembled ice tray.

Pulled the unit out from the wall and with a flat head screwdriver and a utility knife I replaced the valve assembly. It was no problem at all.

New valve is push fittings while old valve is threaded directions don't tell you but cut the tubing and it will match up correctly

turn off ice maker, unplug electoral connection, under bottom of ice maker, remove two screws (hex) under bottom of ice maker, lift up on it to unhook it, take it out. (dump out all ice ). remove back plate on back of ice maker (two screws), the solenoid is held in place with two brass screws, remove them, then remove ground wire from solenoid and two wires, that connect to it,(make a note of how wires go back !). put it all back together and your good to go. . i dont think its really the solenoid that goes out, its the housing that encases it, and you have to buy another solenoid thats encased. good luck

It was a dreary day, too cold to be outside so I decided to tackle this repair. The first problem was one of the three screws holding the dispenser to the door was rusted in and would not come out. If I was smart I would have stopped there, but in the spirit of Tim the Toolman I found a way to work around it. I was able to get the panel off and disconnect the plug in wires and twist it to the side. The actual change of the paddle was a breeze- three screws and it was done. I turned the front section back into place, connected the wires and proceeded to replace the two remaining screws. All of a sudden the ice diispenser kicked in! First in the crushed mode then in the cube mode. You would be amazed how much ice the dispenser actually holds! I was trying to take screws out to disconnect the wires and catch ice at the same time not; an easy task. Once I had all the ice picked up I tried again and all seemed fine-the chilled water even dispensed again. Problem solved? Only until there was ice in the dispenser again and it decided to start dispensing on its own again. This time I learned and unplugged the appliance from the wall. I took everything apart again and disconnected the wires from the control panel and reassembled without reconnecting it. The repair company will be coming out next week to fix. Hopefully what would have been an easy fix will not become an expensive repair. It was one of those times I should have followed my gut when I ran into the first obstacle. I'll let you know the outcome when the professionals do their work.