FGHC2355PFAB Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Disconnect the two water supply tubes at the base of the Water Filter Base. Using a 7/16" open end wrench, press up on the blue "O" rings to disconnect the tubes. Use a Using an 8" long magnetic phillips head screw driver I was able to unscrew the 4 short screws holding the original water filter base and the immovable attached water filter. Replacement was easy. Simply slide the new base into the fixed slot on the refrigerator and reinstall the 4 holding screws. Reconnect the water supply tubes to the Water Filter Base. Install a new water filter.

No repair needed just replace shelf and drawer

VERY EASY SLIDE OLD ONE OUT AND PUT NEW ONE IT

Easy to order on line. Access to schematics let me pick the right part.Fast delivery in two days. Easy to install. slide up and out . Slide new one in.
Thanks for quick service.

Simply remove & replace
No tools required

The repair itself total time was quick and easy. Since the original fan blade blew apart, it was only a matter of putting the new one on in it's place. This can be done by feeding the blade between the cowling and Condenser coil and applying pressure to get it on the shaft.

If your fan is still on the shaft, simply push it off and extract it the same way. Then place the new one on the shaft.

In my case, since the part would take a couple days to get, and I had food both in the fridge and the freezer, I removed and unplugged the Condenser Fan Motor and the cowling frame and temporarily spliced a small fan I had into the line for the condenser motor. This kept the fridge working long enough to get the replacement part.

Side note. Direction of airflow is towards the Compressor, and draws air across the Condenser coils.

Hope this helps someone. :)

Repair was easy. Unplug refrigerator, turn off water to ice maker, remove back panel, disconnect water inlet valve, disconnect water supplies and electrical connections. Cut ends off tubing to modify to new part connections, connect tubing, connect electrical supplies, reinstall back panel, plug refrigerator in, turn water supply back on. We made sure that there was no ice build up in the supply tube into the ice maker and made sure that everything worked correctly before putting it all back together. It was an easy repair.

Followed the online video from this site

Straight forward repair. Remove the four screws holding cardboard back. Remove the 2 screws holding the valve. Unscrew the water lines and unplug the electrical connections. I would caution that it would be wise to either take a couple photos or write down the order of connection. Even though it is somewhat color coded and the water lines are different sizes, a photo removes any confusion. My old valve had threaded connections using brass nuts and ferrules. The new valve has push in connections so you need to cut the ferrules off.. When cutting off the tubing, be sure to cut square. An angled or "squished" cut will leak when pushed into the fitting. Attach the valve to the refrigerator with 2 screws and replace the cardboard back and you're finished. While you have the back off is a good time to clean the coils. I left my fridge out and back off for a couple of ice making cycles so I could check for leaks (how I know the tubing needs to be cut very square). All in all, a very easy fix.

Removed old water valve w/ screwdriver, cut threads off old hose (as they just plug straight into new valve) & pushed hoses into new water valve. Solved both problems!!!!

I watched the video and followed every step as outlined. It worked perfect, until I reconnected the supply line to my triple water valve. I used the old compression fitting and the compression nut. I should have cut the line and installed a new fitting and nut. The water on the floor the next morning reminded me of that. So back out I went and replaced the compression fitting and it has been as good as new. The ice maker took a few cycles to work again, I think it needed to fill the line with water first. But I have a huge sense of pride every time I hear water dispenced or ice dump in the freezer. Thanks for the help and encouragement!

I was able to replace the housing by only removing the front cover, the e-ring and washer and the 3 hex-head screws. I was able to work the old housing around to get the actuator arm off and then get it properly inserted into the new housing. Attach the new housing, IMPORTANT: make sure you get the fixed-blades and spacer assembly in the slot of the housing that holds them in place, replace the e-ring and washer, check that the actuator arm operates the door properly and replace the front cover. The videos can be helpful but these shortcuts will save some time.

DID IT JUST LIKE THE VIDEO SHOWED. UNHOOKED ELECTRICS, CUT TUBING, HOOKED UP ELECTRICS THEN TUBES TO NEW PART. PIECE OF CAKE.

The repair went easily after watching the video, took me less than an hour to complete the repair.

I TOOK A PICTURE OF THE LABEL INSIDE THE DIVICE SO I DID NOT NEED OT REMEMBER IT WHILE GOING TO MY COMPUTER TO LOOK UP THE PART. I FOUND PARTSELECT AND ORDERED THE PART. I GOT GOOD EMAIL COMUNICATION FROM PARTSELECT ABOUT THE ORDER AND EXPECTED DELIVERY. I DONOT REMEMBER IF THEY KEPT THEIR WORD BUT THE PART CAME IN SOON ENOUGH. WHEN IT ARIVED I GOT MY BOX KNIFE AND CUT THE BOX OPEN TOOK OUT THE DRAWER AND SLIDE IT INTO THE SPOT WERE THE BROKEN DRAWER WAS. I DID CLEAN THE SPACE WHERE THE OLD DRAWER WAS IT WAS EMBARRISING DIRTY. I WOULD RATHER NOT TALK ABOUT THAT BUT IF YOU LIKE I CAN SEND PICTURES. THE DOOR IS WORKING FINE JUST LIKE THE ORIGINAL ONE DID. PARTSELECT WAS A GREAT CHOICE IT WAS QUICK AND EASY. IF YOU DONT USE PARTSELECT YOU ARE GOING TO JUST MAKE YOUR REPAIR HARD ON YOURSELF.