FFHS2322MBMA Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed and replace solenoid manifold valve in rear of appliance using inadequate You Tube video. Removed and replaced augur motor after dismantling various housings using a seriously mistaken You Tube video. The latter video informed us that the yoke that screwed on the motor's shaft was a reversed Left Hand thread. It wasn't at all, and we struggled to figure that out. The people that make these videos leave out steps that they thunk are obvious, but aren't at all.

Replaced part and slid into place.

Googled it on Youtube - unplugged the fridge, used a paint scraper to loosen the old light switch, unplugged it from the electrical source, connected the new switch, replaced the whole unit into the proper location and pushed it firmly into place.

After unplugging the fridge, I took a small flat headed screwdriver and carefully pried off the light switch from the inside, right side of the refrigerator. I disconnected the 2 wires from the switch and replaced it with the new switch and pushed it back into the frame of the fridge. Done !! Very very easy !! Thank you

Wasn't sure what parts to replace so happy to find intact entire assembly. Popped out the old, popped in the new. Back in business in less than 5 mins. Highly recommend.

Took out the out one and slid in the new one so easy to do

Original unit had screw on lugs. After removing old unit, I unscrewed the lugs, cut the lines to remove the nuts and inserted them into the new unit. Everything was color coded so connection was simple. Reinstalled unit, cycled the ice maker several times only to discover the fill tube at in the freezer had frozen ice blocking the tray from getting water. Used a hair dryer to thaw out the tube, water flowed instantly. Very easy repair.

I watched the video and followed every step as outlined. It worked perfect, until I reconnected the supply line to my triple water valve. I used the old compression fitting and the compression nut. I should have cut the line and installed a new fitting and nut. The water on the floor the next morning reminded me of that. So back out I went and replaced the compression fitting and it has been as good as new. The ice maker took a few cycles to work again, I think it needed to fill the line with water first. But I have a huge sense of pride every time I hear water dispenced or ice dump in the freezer. Thanks for the help and encouragement!

I was able to replace the housing by only removing the front cover, the e-ring and washer and the 3 hex-head screws. I was able to work the old housing around to get the actuator arm off and then get it properly inserted into the new housing. Attach the new housing, IMPORTANT: make sure you get the fixed-blades and spacer assembly in the slot of the housing that holds them in place, replace the e-ring and washer, check that the actuator arm operates the door properly and replace the front cover. The videos can be helpful but these shortcuts will save some time.

DID IT JUST LIKE THE VIDEO SHOWED. UNHOOKED ELECTRICS, CUT TUBING, HOOKED UP ELECTRICS THEN TUBES TO NEW PART. PIECE OF CAKE.

Remove ice drawer ,Removed front of drawer 4 screws ,Removed broken crusher 3 screws Ordered new parts reassembled replaced fix blade spacer that was broken and blade cover housing reattached front of drawer !

I bought and replaced the control board as suggested. It didn't help. It was suggested that it was the Damper [lets cold air from the freezer into the refrigerator side]. I bought a new Damper unit. It didn't help. It was suggested that I replace the temp sensor[s]. I replaced them both, and the HI alert disappeared, but it did not help with cooling the refrigerator. I gave up after spending $400 on parts with no solution; I bought a new double-door refrigerator.
Note .... None of these parts come with any instructions. You have to watch youtube.

Followed the video for this repair. Only issue was that the videos showed that when the front panel is removed, there is a wire harness that has to be unplugged from part No. 38c. This was not the case. What I had was a Ribbon Cable Harness that plugged into the front of part No. 38 and the top of part 38C (the two power boards) I tried to disconnect it from part 38C by pulling it out, and apparently damaged the Ribbon Cable Harness. Later found a video showing how to remove this item properly when replacing power boards 38 and 38C. Have ordered a new cable from GRP and hopefully this will solve the problem, as there is no electrical current to the dispenser controls and the ice and water dispenser are not currently working. Would have been nice to know that there are two types of connections between these power boards; a cable harness that unplugs from 38C or a Ribbon Cable Harness that unplugs from from the face of part No. 38. Hopefully I have not damaged either of the boards or anything else. Professional repair man coming on Thursday to test the boards, micro switches, etc. The boards are quite pricey, ($550.00 for both) and since the refrigerator was manufactured in 2004, we will buy a new one before we pump any more into this older unit. Very important to know how to unplug this Ribbon Cable Harness from the boards before proceeding ! Plug in on 38C is very tricky and you will need to review a video showing how it is done.

There was no repair needed. I broke the glass shelf that inserts to a plastic frame that holds the fruit/veggie drawer on the fridge.

I found the part very easily on the site and ordered it. The part came exactly as described on the Web site.

Removed old ice maker , emptied ice into new ice maker and installed ice maker, it took less then 2 minutes to complete job and no tools needed , this was the easiest repair I have ever done.