FFSC2323LEBA Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

The repair went easily after watching the video, took me less than an hour to complete the repair.

DID IT JUST LIKE THE VIDEO SHOWED. UNHOOKED ELECTRICS, CUT TUBING, HOOKED UP ELECTRICS THEN TUBES TO NEW PART. PIECE OF CAKE.

I was able to replace the housing by only removing the front cover, the e-ring and washer and the 3 hex-head screws. I was able to work the old housing around to get the actuator arm off and then get it properly inserted into the new housing. Attach the new housing, IMPORTANT: make sure you get the fixed-blades and spacer assembly in the slot of the housing that holds them in place, replace the e-ring and washer, check that the actuator arm operates the door properly and replace the front cover. The videos can be helpful but these shortcuts will save some time.

Followed install instructions on utube. Once freezer was empty, back panel was easily removed, and defrost thermostat was in plain sight, and easy to replace. Hope that solved my problem. Refrigerator has been plugged in for four days now, and is cooling properly so far.

I watched the video and followed every step as outlined. It worked perfect, until I reconnected the supply line to my triple water valve. I used the old compression fitting and the compression nut. I should have cut the line and installed a new fitting and nut. The water on the floor the next morning reminded me of that. So back out I went and replaced the compression fitting and it has been as good as new. The ice maker took a few cycles to work again, I think it needed to fill the line with water first. But I have a huge sense of pride every time I hear water dispenced or ice dump in the freezer. Thanks for the help and encouragement!

Removed the water lines from the old base. Installed new base and reconnected water lines. Installed new filter.Turned on the water line behind the refrigerator. Opened Refrigerator door to watch for leaks. No Leakes. The new filter base was

Removed and replace solenoid manifold valve in rear of appliance using inadequate You Tube video. Removed and replaced augur motor after dismantling various housings using a seriously mistaken You Tube video. The latter video informed us that the yoke that screwed on the motor's shaft was a reversed Left Hand thread. It wasn't at all, and we struggled to figure that out. The people that make these videos leave out steps that they thunk are obvious, but aren't at all.

I TOOK A PICTURE OF THE LABEL INSIDE THE DIVICE SO I DID NOT NEED OT REMEMBER IT WHILE GOING TO MY COMPUTER TO LOOK UP THE PART. I FOUND PARTSELECT AND ORDERED THE PART. I GOT GOOD EMAIL COMUNICATION FROM PARTSELECT ABOUT THE ORDER AND EXPECTED DELIVERY. I DONOT REMEMBER IF THEY KEPT THEIR WORD BUT THE PART CAME IN SOON ENOUGH. WHEN IT ARIVED I GOT MY BOX KNIFE AND CUT THE BOX OPEN TOOK OUT THE DRAWER AND SLIDE IT INTO THE SPOT WERE THE BROKEN DRAWER WAS. I DID CLEAN THE SPACE WHERE THE OLD DRAWER WAS IT WAS EMBARRISING DIRTY. I WOULD RATHER NOT TALK ABOUT THAT BUT IF YOU LIKE I CAN SEND PICTURES. THE DOOR IS WORKING FINE JUST LIKE THE ORIGINAL ONE DID. PARTSELECT WAS A GREAT CHOICE IT WAS QUICK AND EASY. IF YOU DONT USE PARTSELECT YOU ARE GOING TO JUST MAKE YOUR REPAIR HARD ON YOURSELF.

We had someone to come and look at it and we were told it was the solenoid valve. The repairman unstuck it for us and said when it does it again, he would have to order the part. We took it upon ourselves to order the part and DIY. We replaced the part that we were told was the problem and "guess what" it's still not fixed. It's still shooting out crushed ice. Will have to call repair guy back out here to see what we did wrong.

Had to replace with a whole new part, had to take it all apart to replace

Straight forward repair. Remove the four screws holding cardboard back. Remove the 2 screws holding the valve. Unscrew the water lines and unplug the electrical connections. I would caution that it would be wise to either take a couple photos or write down the order of connection. Even though it is somewhat color coded and the water lines are different sizes, a photo removes any confusion. My old valve had threaded connections using brass nuts and ferrules. The new valve has push in connections so you need to cut the ferrules off.. When cutting off the tubing, be sure to cut square. An angled or "squished" cut will leak when pushed into the fitting. Attach the valve to the refrigerator with 2 screws and replace the cardboard back and you're finished. While you have the back off is a good time to clean the coils. I left my fridge out and back off for a couple of ice making cycles so I could check for leaks (how I know the tubing needs to be cut very square). All in all, a very easy fix.

This was the last step of serial repairs to the ice crusher portion of the ice maker. I have practically replaced the entire assembly. All the blades were installed incorrectly (at factory? Afterwards?) and had bent. That caused problems for other parts. I hadn't noticed that the housing was weakened and my prior repair I did something dumb and the door on housing wasn't closing properly, so it snapped. I bought a new housing and installed it. My #1 tip is WATCH THE VIDEO! There are some things that have to be put together just so. You need things to line up and be under slight tension from springs. Last time I had it under too much tension. The door got in the way of the blades and broke. So this time I was more careful to do it correctly. Everything is working perfectly now. This design is clever, and I feel like I can diagnose and fix it again in future. "Steve's" instructional videos are a huge help. He shows exactly what to do.

Basically unhooked water lines and removed the screws

very easy, make sure to watch the provided you tube video.

I followed the video and everything went smoothly. After pushing the pin in I pulled out the broken pin with needle nose pliers-very easy just like on the video. It took more time finding all the simple tools than the job itself-well almost!