DFHS2313MFKA Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed old gasket and installed new one by pushing the gasket in the door groove.

Removed drawer. Removed shelve. Flipped shelve over. Removed one screw. Undid tab on each end. Removed bad rail. Replaced with new rail and reversed order. Easy fix.

Googled it on Youtube - unplugged the fridge, used a paint scraper to loosen the old light switch, unplugged it from the electrical source, connected the new switch, replaced the whole unit into the proper location and pushed it firmly into place.

After unplugging the fridge, I took a small flat headed screwdriver and carefully pried off the light switch from the inside, right side of the refrigerator. I disconnected the 2 wires from the switch and replaced it with the new switch and pushed it back into the frame of the fridge. Done !! Very very easy !! Thank you

Original unit had screw on lugs. After removing old unit, I unscrewed the lugs, cut the lines to remove the nuts and inserted them into the new unit. Everything was color coded so connection was simple. Reinstalled unit, cycled the ice maker several times only to discover the fill tube at in the freezer had frozen ice blocking the tray from getting water. Used a hair dryer to thaw out the tube, water flowed instantly. Very easy repair.

1. Using Philips head screwdriver, remove plastic hinge cover on top of refrigerator door.
2. Remove bolts using socket wrench.
3. Lift door from bottom hinge.
4. With Philips head screwdriver remove screw holding bearing in place on bottom of door.
5. Remove old bearing.
6. Install new bearing.
7. Replace fridge door using reverse steps.
8. Enjoy your handi-work.

I was able to replace the housing by only removing the front cover, the e-ring and washer and the 3 hex-head screws. I was able to work the old housing around to get the actuator arm off and then get it properly inserted into the new housing. Attach the new housing, IMPORTANT: make sure you get the fixed-blades and spacer assembly in the slot of the housing that holds them in place, replace the e-ring and washer, check that the actuator arm operates the door properly and replace the front cover. The videos can be helpful but these shortcuts will save some time.

I watched the video and followed every step as outlined. It worked perfect, until I reconnected the supply line to my triple water valve. I used the old compression fitting and the compression nut. I should have cut the line and installed a new fitting and nut. The water on the floor the next morning reminded me of that. So back out I went and replaced the compression fitting and it has been as good as new. The ice maker took a few cycles to work again, I think it needed to fill the line with water first. But I have a huge sense of pride every time I hear water dispenced or ice dump in the freezer. Thanks for the help and encouragement!

Followed the video for this repair. Only issue was that the videos showed that when the front panel is removed, there is a wire harness that has to be unplugged from part No. 38c. This was not the case. What I had was a Ribbon Cable Harness that plugged into the front of part No. 38 and the top of part 38C (the two power boards) I tried to disconnect it from part 38C by pulling it out, and apparently damaged the Ribbon Cable Harness. Later found a video showing how to remove this item properly when replacing power boards 38 and 38C. Have ordered a new cable from GRP and hopefully this will solve the problem, as there is no electrical current to the dispenser controls and the ice and water dispenser are not currently working. Would have been nice to know that there are two types of connections between these power boards; a cable harness that unplugs from 38C or a Ribbon Cable Harness that unplugs from from the face of part No. 38. Hopefully I have not damaged either of the boards or anything else. Professional repair man coming on Thursday to test the boards, micro switches, etc. The boards are quite pricey, ($550.00 for both) and since the refrigerator was manufactured in 2004, we will buy a new one before we pump any more into this older unit. Very important to know how to unplug this Ribbon Cable Harness from the boards before proceeding ! Plug in on 38C is very tricky and you will need to review a video showing how it is done.

Remove ice drawer ,Removed front of drawer 4 screws ,Removed broken crusher 3 screws Ordered new parts reassembled replaced fix blade spacer that was broken and blade cover housing reattached front of drawer !

Called "local" repair warehouse and ordered part. They shipped the wrong part. Went on-line to Part Select and got the right part.

DID IT JUST LIKE THE VIDEO SHOWED. UNHOOKED ELECTRICS, CUT TUBING, HOOKED UP ELECTRICS THEN TUBES TO NEW PART. PIECE OF CAKE.

This was the last step of serial repairs to the ice crusher portion of the ice maker. I have practically replaced the entire assembly. All the blades were installed incorrectly (at factory? Afterwards?) and had bent. That caused problems for other parts. I hadn't noticed that the housing was weakened and my prior repair I did something dumb and the door on housing wasn't closing properly, so it snapped. I bought a new housing and installed it. My #1 tip is WATCH THE VIDEO! There are some things that have to be put together just so. You need things to line up and be under slight tension from springs. Last time I had it under too much tension. The door got in the way of the blades and broke. So this time I was more careful to do it correctly. Everything is working perfectly now. This design is clever, and I feel like I can diagnose and fix it again in future. "Steve's" instructional videos are a huge help. He shows exactly what to do.

Straight forward repair. Remove the four screws holding cardboard back. Remove the 2 screws holding the valve. Unscrew the water lines and unplug the electrical connections. I would caution that it would be wise to either take a couple photos or write down the order of connection. Even though it is somewhat color coded and the water lines are different sizes, a photo removes any confusion. My old valve had threaded connections using brass nuts and ferrules. The new valve has push in connections so you need to cut the ferrules off.. When cutting off the tubing, be sure to cut square. An angled or "squished" cut will leak when pushed into the fitting. Attach the valve to the refrigerator with 2 screws and replace the cardboard back and you're finished. While you have the back off is a good time to clean the coils. I left my fridge out and back off for a couple of ice making cycles so I could check for leaks (how I know the tubing needs to be cut very square). All in all, a very easy fix.

Basically unhooked water lines and removed the screws