DFHS2313MFKA Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

The shelving brackets are install much like a blind rivet. I simply used a punch and gently pushed in the plastic center pin / mandrel. I then used a butter knife as a wedge to pull out the shelving supports enough to grab them with a pair of pliers. Simple to do!

The 4 lines attached to water valve have compression fittings.New valve has pex fittings.I cut each line just behind the ferrel and inserted each line into the proper fitting and reattached the 3 electrical plugs.Turned water back on.I immediately got water from thr door without dripping.For whatever reason it was not making ice for the first 3 days,I pulled the plug on the icemaker solenoid and reattached.It is working now.

Followed the steps in the video on your site, really easy to do.

Removed the two screws that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. Everything matched up perfectly.

Removed supports with pliers and used center punch to push broken plugs out of hole and inserted the new supports.

I removed the old gate by using a flat head screw driver to pry open mouth. I then removed 2 bolts that held on the cage that hols the ice crushing blades. Then I inserted the new gate and used a screw driver to pry the mouth open again (it was more difficult to insert than remove). I then popped in the new gate and re-assembled the cage. It worked on the first shot with no problems!

This is the 3rd time I have attemped and successfully repaired major home appliances myself after the warrenty ran out. I'm sure I could buy a new appliance for the money I saved.

While waiting for parts I removed the control and side panels, placed duct tape partly over the hole to the freezer to allow fridge cooling and left the panels lay inside plugged up while I monitored the fridge temp. This worked until the parts arrived.

1. Remove 3 hex screws holding (underneath) the front control panel
to the top of the fridge.
2. Remove 2 screws holding the left side assembly. The control panel
and the side assembly come down as 1 L shaped piece.
3. Unplug the large control cable and the small cable then remove
the entire assembly. Note the position of the freezer sensor
extending into the freezer. Separate the control panel from the
side assembly to access the cable bundle.
4. Remove and replace the Damper Control Assembly. Note: You can
remove the complete old styrofoam (glued in place) or cut the tape
holding a 2 part styrofoam section that holds the damper in place
and only replace the upper part. Be sure to tape the 2 styrofoam
parts back together. Make sure the freezer sensor is placed
properly on the Damper assy.
5. Remove and replace the old thermistor assembly, secure the wiring
bundle and reattach the control panel to the side panel.
6. Place the entire assembly back inside, plug up the cables.
7. While supporting both panels insert the freezer sensor in the
proper position and replace the 3 screws securing the control
panel then the 2 screws securing the side panel. Check that the
side panel is flush against the side after installation.
8 Wait about 12 hours for the temperature to stabilize.

I shut the water off under the sink and removed the back piece on the refrigerator, unscrewed the water valve, cut the ends off each plastic hose and reinserted into the new water valve. Then rescrewed the water line into the new water valve and turned on the water. Unfortunately, I was not able to get water out of the door and the ice maker still doesn't make ice. While this was an easy procedure, it didn't help me. I'm not sure I needed to replace the water valve.

Went the typical route of part replacement since I don't own an ohm meter...pull and replace one part at a time. Started with the cheaper parts first, replaced the freezer fan for $40, same problem. Replaced the defrost heater element for $40, same problem. Replaced the thermostat $15 and controller board $150 at same time, bingo problem solved. Had to defrost with the hair dryer each time, biggest pain. Had an issue finding a Utube that showed the water filter system and thermistor removal for this model, otherwise straightforward, but not a 30 minute job.

First I removed two screws per rail and removed the old rails. I replaced with the new rails and used a nutdriver to secure in place. This was extremely easy and I fell like my fridge is brand new again.
You can do it!!!

I removed the back cover and removed the clip holding the compressor- run capacitor and start relay. I replaced these 2 components and clean the dust from the frig., and from the bottom of the floor. I replaced the back cover ; Loss about $300 worth of meat when when the frig. failed. Then I thought that, during these turbulent times, there are many which don't have a refrigerator or any meat to place in it, The refrigerator is "running" normal again.

removed ice maker box and disassembled crusher unit on front of box and installed new housing.

Followed instructions from others on the blog. Shut off water and electricity to the refrigerator. Removed the cardboard plate. Removed the old water valve. Cut the compression valves off and inserted the tubes into the new water valve. Attached the water valve bracket to the fridge. Tightened copper water supply.Turned on the water - no leaks. Plugged the fridge in. Tried the water and ice in the door. No leaks - everything worked perfectly. THANK YOU PARTS SELECT!

I replaced the water valve, but it still did not fix the problem.The old water valve I took out I'm assuming worked fine, I think the real problem is ice building up in pipe or some other blockage.

Parts select was very fast in shipping, very positive experience with them.
I will definitely purchase again from this site.

I recieved the part within 48 hours. I snapped the part in place and I was done in seconds.