DFHS2313MFEA Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Consult the exploded view of the Ice Container on this site. A likely cause the end plate (17) is worn. This plate connects the rotating corkscrew to the final plastic worm that pushes the ice into the crusher and thence to your waiting glass. The worm alone will not do the trick. To replace this plate, you need to take out all of the screws you can see, including the one that holds the spring for the crusher select bar.. First, the front cover, then the plate, and finally, locking ring from the worm and the black housing for the crusher. Now you can remove the whole worm assembly. Using a cloth or rubber insulator to protect it, unscrew the end screw and slide off the crusher teeth. Store on the table as a unit to facilitate re-assembly. Slide off the old bar and worm, put them back, and re-assemble. Takes a little dexterity to get the crusher select bar back, but not hard. Easy job.

We had to unhook & remove icemaker several times, thaw it out & reinstall, it would work for a day or two then overflow. Bought the new ice marker, replace it and it works great....

Remove the bottom freezer drawer. Remove back metal evaporator panel. Wire in new defrost terminationT-stat. Reassemble evap panel. Good to go.

It was simple. I loosened the two screws holding the ice maker unit. Then disconnected the wire harness. Plug in the new ice maker and tighten down the two screws. Held reset button for 15 sec. Done! took ten min. I had a full try of ice the next day!

Replaced the Triple Water Valve

Support studs have an expansion fitting - center post has to be pushed through to allow expansion joint to collapse for removal. After installation, this post can be pushed in or pulled out to secure the stud and be the proper length to hold the bins.

None of this was obvious - an online tip from another member was invaluable.

Looked at video on how to remove and reinstall support and followed the instruct ions

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.

It was very simple-it is just an insert glass shelf above the vegetable drawers. But, it was fairly easy to identify on your website and delivered in about two days.

The repair could not be completed. I ordered a thermostat defrost kit but received a collar arbor for a saw. They do not answer the phone at customer service and the order took close to two weeks to get in the first place. Beware of shopping at this site!

After checking the capacitor and 3 in 1 starter run relay for continuity and both measuring , I was able to remove the old parts and install the new parts for the refrigerator after unplugging the unit. I also checked the new parts prior to installing. I also went on Parts Select and watched some very helpful videos. Thanks a lot for your help desk for going above and beyond to ensure that I ordered the correct part! ????

The service manual diagram shows the 149 complete fan shroud in a vertical (upright) position. Misleading! Of course.
The actual mounting of the lay in fan shroud fully assembled is in the horizontal position laying in a tray area just above the evaporator coil cage assembly. The entire shroud assembly can be installed incorrectly by the diagram and will still fit. BUT... no cold air will flow or be forced into the ice maker vent nor the refrigerator vent. I found this out the hard way by trial & error.
If the drawing had shown it in the horizontal position for both removal and reinstallation... it would have saved a lot of time and headaches. Also, the diagram does not show the (2) plastic angle supports on the shroud, another scratch your head event. Parts included on drawing... 149, 5, 8, 9, 13, 14 on CTFFHS2611PF4 diagram page of service manual.
ALSO, the (4) lower cabinet plate screws have to be removed, and the first left hand screw counting up to allow the next upper panel to swing out enough to lay the shroud in correctly (horizontal) on top of the evaporator coil cage. BOTTOM LINE... THE AIR FLOW HAS TO BE UP IN ORDER TO WORK PROPERLY.

Pulled the unit out from the wall and with a flat head screwdriver and a utility knife I replaced the valve assembly. It was no problem at all.

I broke off remainder of clip, and used phillip
screwdriver and pushed pin into wall. I lined up new support and pushed in peg to secure