RT175GCW0 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Followed video instruction and completed the replacement. I had to join the wires since the connector was a male plug to a make plug.

Unplugged the fridge. Removed water inlet valve from fridge. Used voltmeter to test for resistance (between 50 and 150 ohms). Didn't pass the test.
My original part was 218720400. I ordered part PS468507 from partselect.com. My original part had a "garden hose" coupling so PS468507 fit the bill.
This part's electrical connection wasn't angled the same way as the original so we had to finagle it.
Hooked the plastic refridgerator supply hose up first.
Then screwed on the copper "garden hose" connection to the valve using channel lock pliers. Was careful not to over tighten.
Then the fun started. The electrical connector wires were a tight fit between the copper tubing and the refridgerator frame. Did I mention that the electrical connetion wasn't angled the same as the original? My daughter got her smaller hands in there and was able to make the connection.
NOTE: Because of the angling issue I was unable to screw the anchor plate to the fridge.
I made sure that the valve did not interfere with the fan.
Turned on the water and checked for leaks.
Plugged the fridge back in and in a couple of hours we had ice cubes. Works like a charm!

Made sure water was going into valve, shut off water to valve, removed it. removed two connections, replaced with new valve, Walla, off & running. Incidentally, rec'd new valve much quicker than I ever expected.

It was very easy. Pulled off the old valve and replaced with the new one and it started making ice right away. There are a couple of issues you need to be aware of that I am watching closely now. The old valve was a 15 watt valve. The one they sent me is a 35 watt valve. It really pressures the water into the ice maker. So much so I am getting a little leaking from the overflow. Its working so well and powering the water in so fast it starts to leak a little due to being to full. When I ordered the part, no where did it show the wattage of the valve so be careful. It works great but will have to keep an eye on it so it does not overflow.

After first ordering the wrong end part, I reordered the correct part and successfully attached the handle end and handle to the refrigerator door. The handle itself was too long, and I had to cut it down to the correct size. I am a realtor and provided the service to my buyer of the condo that was my listing. Thank goodness for your company and the ability to buy parts for an old model!

Refrigerator started frosting up and running all the time.I'd defrost it and it would frost up again in about a week.The timer seems to be work so I just guest it mite be the Defrost Thermostat.I removed the duck in the center and back panel in the freezer compartment defrosted it and switched Thermostats and replaced panel and duck, going to lower compartment of the refrigerator.So far it seems to be working a little more time while tell.

Removed dead water valve. Installed new water valve.

replaced it

Removed broken and installed nw part.

Needed to replace the valve in the back. My first attempt at a fridge repair. New valve went on in a flash and the ice maker is working great.

take 1/4 hex screws out clean out dust ,remove old fan blade replace with new install bolts .

dismantled the top rear panel of the freezer and found I had the wrong part. Hand started the fan motor and it has been working fine since.

Unplugged refrigerator. Removed control knob and cover. Unwired control and removed same. Removed plastic tube from old capillary tube and placed on new unit. Installed and wired in new unit, making sure new unit was in the "off" position. Plugged in refrigerator, turned control knob to the first numerical setting, and was rewarded with the startup of the refrigerator compressor. Voila!

Thermostat assembly, remove light bulb, remove 1 screw, drop thermostat casing, two screws to remove timer from inside and install in reverse. Old Timer had electric motor and lasted 30 years. New one looks to be electronic with plastic motor gears.

1. Unplug the refrigerator.2. Remove the storage rack and back panel in the freezer. 3. Locate the thermostat. 4. Defrost the freezer coils , i used a hair dryer. 5. Remove the thermostat from the cooling coil and then clip the connecting wires close to the unit. 6. Strip the ends of these wires and connect these wires to the wires of the replacement unit using the supplied wire connectors. 6. Heat seal with a lighter the connections using the water shield sleeves provided and further wrap connections with electrical tape. 7. Reconnect the thermostat to the cooling coil at the location it was removed from. 8. Replace the freezer back panel removed earlierand the storage rack if you have one. 9. Plug the freezer back in. My refrigerator has been working ever since the repair. There are several YouTube videos available that walk you through the diagnoses and repair process. They are very good.