FRS22PRCW3 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

I first unplugged the refirgerator. Note the time because the refrigerator should be unplugged at least 30 minutes before plugging back in (see end for why). A trouble light is necessary to see adequately. I removed the shelves and draws and put food in a picnic cooler. I took off the lower panel in the back of the freezer, and defrosted the coils with a hair dryer. I unplugged the wires to the defroster, and then the screw holding the coil to the back of the freezer side. I lifted up on the coil unit to clear the blade that inserts into the drain. I removed the bands on the top of the coil that hold the heating unit in place. I tilted the bottom out when there was clearance, and pulled the defrosting unit down and out. I replaced the new one, and reversed the procedure, and then plugged the wires back into the new defroster unit. The bands on the top should be secured before putting the coil back in place, as well as the foam spacers on top of coil, put the two wires back in the plastic clip that keeps them away from the fan and pipes. Replace lower freezer cover panel and screws. Put shelves and food back in. If at least 30 minutes have passed, plug the refrigerator back in. If you don't wait that long, their will still be pressure in the compressor and it will not start to cool properly right away. It works perfectly now. TIP: check the end of the drain hose periodically by taking off the lower back cover and pull th hose out - not hard to do. Mine plugged from dust and lint build up backing up into the end of the hose so water didn't drain out, and ice built up causing the defroster coil to burn out. I cut a little off the hose so the water level would not rise up into the hose, but the hose would still stay in place in the plastic holder.

removed back cover from freezer to replace defrost stat. removed cover from refrigerator to replace defrost timer

First, I unplugged the appliance. Safety, first.
Than I removed the shield which was held in by screws. This covered the fan, thermometer.
The defrost thermostat was taken out, with a little extra force. The wires on the defective part were no longer attached to the part. The instructions were easy to follow in replacing the defrost thermostat. I stripped the coating on the wire, attached it with the enclosed electical bugs. The assy was able to follow, and the part went back on. The refrigerator is working perfectly. I couldn't have done it without the help in diagnosing the problem and with the speedy delivery of the new part. Thanks for all your help and the ease of the installing the new part!

Make sure unplugged the frig before doing any repair. Just like other DIYers. opened up the evaporator located inside the freezer. Replaced the defrost thermostat, there's only 2 wires, so just make sure which is positive, which is negative. Replaced the defrost timer located on the bottom front of the frig. There's on 2 screws to unscrew. All those work took me less than half hour. Turn on the frig., now it works like a champ again. Hope it will last another 10 years.

I secured the power to the fridge. I took the metal panel which covers the cooling coils in the freezer off by removing the the 6 sheet metal screws. I used a standard hair dryer to melt the ice block which had formed due to the failure of the defrost timer. I replace the defrost timer, which was located behind the left front wheel of the unit. Finding the timer was the hardest part of the job. Since I was having trouble with the defrost cycle I also decided to replace the defrost thermostat due to its age. The most important item I would like to share is once all the work is done and the panel is back in the freezer, the power is restored take a straight slot screw driver and give the defrost timer about an eighth of a turn clockwise to ensure it starts. Then mark it with a sharpe and check it in 3 or 4 hours to make sure it is running. I did not do this on the one I installed and the freezer did not go into the defrost cycle. Once I got the timer started, well the ice cream stay frozen. BE SURE NOT TO WORK ON YOUR EQUIPMENT WITH IT PLUGGED INTO POWER SOURCE!!!

Jim

Removed the old fan--three small nuts and snap off connection. Ordered part and received the next day. Your company is great!!

Unplug fan and remove 3 bolts. I had to bend the fan frame in order to remove fan. Change fan blade and reverse procedure. Fridge is fixed nice and cold

Pulled the upper drawer out, slid the faceplate/handle up and out of the channel in the drawer. Took the new drawer and slid the faceplate/handle down into the channels and it was done.

Unloaded the drawer, pulled it out, took off the front panel, put the panel in the new drawer, reloaded the drawer, and put it back into the fridge.
I had the new drawer back in the fridge before the wife even knew I had taken it out of the box. I have been banished from storing my beer in the bottom drawer sincs I broke the old one. This should be the last drawer repair that I have to make.

I put the refrigerator and saw that the fan wasn't working so I change the fan and the problem still the same. I order a timer and thermostat and change them, nothing change so I order the capacitor and when I remove it I saw that the relay swith was burn out so I order a switch and evarything is ok.
The problem when the fan broke the compressor overheat and burn the swich.
I learn a lot and still saving money over these repair guy.

Thanks

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Ordered gasket and gasket arrived within 48 hrs. Put the unit into out-of-commission status. Defrosted cooling coils. Dried the coils thoroughly. Reinstalled cover panel to the coils. Removed existing door gaskets. Installed new (2) gaskets. So far ice buildup to the coils had ceased.

Removed old thermostat and replaced. really easy.

After posting the specific symptoms and getting feedback, I had narrowed the cause to two linked parts. I ordered both intending to replace first one, then the other as needed. With parts in hand, I pulled off the freezer control knob, used a nut driver to remove the two panel securing screws (behind the face, against the inner ceiling) and gently dropped the cover down. The control (temp sensor and cold control) is easily accessible as it sits wedged into two slots in the plastic cover. The control must be slightly lifted in order to extract the long sensor that attaches to the control and runs under it and into a plastic sleeve behind the panel (the new control comes with the sensor wrapped in a tight coil and it must be unwound for the install). Removed the three wires noting which color goes where. Used needle-nose pliers to remove the small push-on tabs and removed the control. After starting the new sensor probe into the sleeve re-attached the 3 wires to the new control. Used the original as a model for how to pre-bend the probe for the first 2 inches as it was mildly frustrating to position the unit back correctly. Pushed everything back into place, re-installed the screws and plugged the fridge back in...(you DID unplug it first, right?). Still haven't used the second part (defrost timer), but I expect it to go soon...it is a 17 year old refrigerator, after all.

the heater defroster was bad. tested and no continuity brake in eliment.just doing a visual might have detected it but it`s hidden behind the coils.....all is working now