GTN217HH2 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

a handyman made the repair. It went fine.

removed all items from frig.. removed shelves, loosened one screw on each slide bracket and moved them down and out of the way of the rear panel....removed 6 screws in rear panel...removed all ice on coils with a heat gun...located defrost stat, replaced...crimped wires...re-installed rear panel and shelves! On left side of frig. in front bottom..located defrost timer..removed trim piece, loosened 2 screws....removed and replaced defrost timer...plugged in the frig. and it started!!!!

Our old gasket was shot to hell, so we figured we'd replace it to see if that would solve the problem. We followed the instructions of another customer. We realized it was better if we removed the entire door in order to attach the gasket. That took a little doing, but it was totally the way to go. Miracle of Miracles, the leaking has stopped, the food is super cold, and I couldn't be happier.

Removed shelf brackets to allow the removal of the evaporator sheetmetal cover. Unpluged wires to thermostat ,removed defrost timer and plugged in new timer,(front left lower kick panel). Cut and resoldered wires to new thermostat reinstalled thermostat and cover in reverse order. I knew what parts I needed and how to repair the unit,however your customer comments were spot on and would help anyone perform a successful repair (you provide a helpful service for the public)

I removed the plastic shroud on the ceiling of the refigerator, unscrewed and unplugged the old defrost timer, and replaced it with the new one. I reinstalled the shroud with the new timer installed.

Unplug fridge. Removed 2 nuts to get the vent plate off and two more nuts to get the motor mount off. Removed fan blade and then the fan motor. I put the new motor in and put everything back as it was. It was very easy. I had items in the freezer, so I didn't turn the fridge off other than to replace the part. It took about 6 hours for the fridge to reach optional temps because I didn't get to defrost and the fridge had to work it out on it's own. If you don't need the freezer then you should turn the refridgerator off for at least an hour and open the doors so the coils can defrost and any ice blockage between the freezer and fridge portion can melt away as well.

Followed video instruction and completed the replacement. I had to join the wires since the connector was a male plug to a make plug.

Top freezer took off the panel in freezer and melted the ice around coils and found the defrost thermostat and replaced with the new one. Just followed the instructions from your video on line. Freezer works just fine now. Refrigerator is 38 years old.

My fridge side had warmed up to 70 degrees but the freezer side was still cold. The coils inside had iced up. After thawing with a hair dryer, it froze back after another week. I removed the old defrost thermostat and wired the heater strip directly and turned on the defrost timer. It began melting the ice so that ruled out the heater strip being bad. I couldn't get a reading with my ohm meter on the defrost thermostat so I took a chance and bought the part. Installation was a breeze and it fixed the problem.

Followed the instructions provided in your video, took less than 15 minutes and works like new. Thank you for the parts and the advice.

Unplugged the fridge. Removed water inlet valve from fridge. Used voltmeter to test for resistance (between 50 and 150 ohms). Didn't pass the test.
My original part was 218720400. I ordered part PS468507 from partselect.com. My original part had a "garden hose" coupling so PS468507 fit the bill.
This part's electrical connection wasn't angled the same way as the original so we had to finagle it.
Hooked the plastic refridgerator supply hose up first.
Then screwed on the copper "garden hose" connection to the valve using channel lock pliers. Was careful not to over tighten.
Then the fun started. The electrical connector wires were a tight fit between the copper tubing and the refridgerator frame. Did I mention that the electrical connetion wasn't angled the same as the original? My daughter got her smaller hands in there and was able to make the connection.
NOTE: Because of the angling issue I was unable to screw the anchor plate to the fridge.
I made sure that the valve did not interfere with the fan.
Turned on the water and checked for leaks.
Plugged the fridge back in and in a couple of hours we had ice cubes. Works like a charm!

Removed the vent cover at the bottom. Removed the screws. disconected the harnes and put the new timer in. This was a very easy fix. Thank You!

Having tried PartSelect.com before, I was very comfortable with the process. Input my symptoms and the feed back I received was that one of the 2 things (Defrost Timer or Defrost Thermostat)might need replacement. Since the cost was not much and over night shipping would cost more than the product, I decided to order both the parts. Changing parts was a breeze. The instructions posted by others on your web site were very easy to follow. You guys save me a bundle every time I have any thing going worng with any of my appliances.

From most posts I've read, the defrost timer was the culprit so I blindly ordered one. Easy install but did not fix the problem so I broke out the ohm meter. The only other 2 items it could be all tested good with my meter so I bypassed the defrost thermostat (per forum help...actually quite easy)and it defrosted fine, which told me I needed a new defrost thermostat. Installed fairly easy and problem gone.

Took old defrost pan off, put new one on. Had to bend new defrost pan a little for it to fit..