FRT21NSGW2 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

take 1/4 hex screws out clean out dust ,remove old fan blade replace with new install bolts .

just like the video showed...it was excellent!!!

It snapped in place.

took 4 screws out of the discharge vent on top of the refrigerator section and unpluged the wiring harness and put the section on the counter and unscrewed the timer and put the new one in and reinstalled the assembly and plugged the Jack and put the 4 screws back in, and rotated the timer and put it on defrost removed the back and check the heaters and drain .

I watched the video you had on-line and it was simple. Thank you so much

removed everything from door, removed screws in gasket around door, laid door face down(insulation side up)applied rtv around edge of gasket and door, waited 10 minutes and started with top screw in middle of top then middle of sides and bottom then installed remaining screws checked levelness of refrigerator, the you are done

Unplug the refrigerator. Removed the right hand top shelf. Used a 1/4" nutdriver to remove rear center mounting screw for Control Housing. Used Phillips screwdriver to remove two mounting screws for timer. Unplug cable from timer and plug it into the new timer. Install the new timer and re-install the Control Housing. Plug in the refrigerator and adjust the timer to start the unit. This was a snap with the diagnostic provided by Part Select. At first I thought it was the fan rubbing but when I removed the cover (two screws) it was obvious that wasn't the problem. The diagnostic hinted that it was either the timer or the motor capacitor making the noise. Because the noise continued after turning OFF the control, I thought it was the timer...I was right.

I am a 65 year old woman with no mechanical aptitude: I just unplugged the frig. And used a screw driver to pry of the plastic socket from its outside edge. . Then you just unplug two tiny contact plugs that appear when you pull out the socket and replug in those two the same way on the new part. Pop the socket back into the hole . . . . And screw in the new bulb. I knew I needed the socket part cause when the bulb burned out , a new bulb still did not work. . . If I can do it, anyone can!

Ordered the new part-Unplugged the refrigerator - took off the cover over the defective timer - put in the new part put the cover back on - plugged the refrigerator back in - so far, so good!~

Removed the lower trim panel from front of fridg. and loosened two screws enough to turn it about 1/4 inch so the screw heads were in the larger holes. Pulled it out disconnected the wire connector and transfered the heat shield and screws to the new clock, connected the wire connector and aligned the screws. tightened them and job done. Has worked like new sense. Thanks Roger

The old drain pan had a 1 ½” tall bushing attached to the center of the pan. The new pan did not have this bushing which was great. I had to cut about 1 inch off the bushing to remove the old pan. Also after cutting the bushing I had to screw the bushing off after cutting the old pan from the bushing. I installed new pan onto the ½” of threads that was left on the top of the compressor. Checked repair two days later all was great.

The instructions given to me by part Select were very good.I replaced the Timer- checked the heater with oham meter it was good- checked the door weather striping it was good and replaced the thermostat with new .So at this point I may need to call a professional unless some one has another solution.

Unplug the refrigerator. You will ultimately need to remove the back panel of the freezer. But first, you will need to unscrew 2 screws on a small vertical fan vent and unscrew two screws on the fan. Maneuver the fan out of the round hole in the back panel and unplug the 3 prong wire connection. Then remove the fan. Unscrew the 4 remaining visible screwson the back pannel and remove the panel. This will expose the freon coils. On this model, the heater has two connections at the top of the coils. Unplug those wire connections. The heater extends down each side of the coils and along the bottom of the coils. Unhook two aluminum ties that connect the heater element to the coils. These ties stabilize the heater element and also prevents any current from flowing along the element because of the touching of two different metalic parts. Maneuver the heater element out of the coils. To install the new heater, reverse the above process beginning with installing the new heater element. If it hasn't already been done, it is good idea to test the old heater element with an ohm meter to make sure that the element is actually bad. The circuit should be open. This is the second heater element that I had to replace on this refrigerator, and it was actually burned in half both times, so I knew for sure the element was bad. Then test the new element to make sure it is good, and start the installation..

First I removed the inner door which was easy and used a drill with a hex head driver to undo all of the screws behind the gasket. Trying to fit the new gasket on was a fidely nightmare. It's not too bad to get the sides on but the corners are very difficult. At first I had left the door on the fridge after an hours worth of swearing I took the door right off and laid it flat on a table. When I finally got the gasket all on, with a couple od small tears, I hit it with a heat gun and got most but not all of the wrinkels out. When I put the door back on the fridge it wouldn't close properly - gaps in the gasket. I leaned some weights against the door and it the gasket with the heat gun again. Gradually over 2 days it fit fairley well.

Decided to clean the refrigerator at the same time as replacing the broken part. Took shelf out, removed glass, washed all parts, removed broken rail (two screws) and replaced new part. Piece of cake!