GLHS38EJQ1 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Pulled the old gasket off and put new gasket/seal on by pressing firmly into slot.

First removed the drip tray with a firm tug, Then removed the 2 screws to remove the trim, had to remove the board to get get to the connector. (there is a clip that holds the wire tight) connected the new ribbon cable and secured it with the clip, screwed the board back in and pushed in the other end of the cable. and screwed the trim back and the drip tray. surprisingly Very easy to do.

Most of the time was spent removing frozen food and removing the plastic clip holding one of the shelves in place. Removal of bottom panel took less than a minute. Thermostat easy to find, clipped wires a the unit and removed unit. Used included wire jackets, but not white shrink wrap. This did NOT fix the problem. This was the attempt at a 'cheap' fix. My refrigerator required the 'control box' to be replaced.

The shelving brackets are install much like a blind rivet. I simply used a punch and gently pushed in the plastic center pin / mandrel. I then used a butter knife as a wedge to pull out the shelving supports enough to grab them with a pair of pliers. Simple to do!

It's a good idea to unplug the fridge before you start. There are lots of wires and circuit boards in the area where you will be working.

To remove the in door water / Ice dispenser cover, remove drip tray, remove a couple of screws at the bottom and slide the cover up to release the tabs. There are a few scews holding the mechanism housing, remove them and gently pull the housing forward. You should be able to see the top iof the actuator. The actuator is held in place by 2 small metal plates, each with two small screws. Note the location of the return spring on the actuator arm! You will need to orient it the same way on the new actuator arm. Remove the screws and plates and lift out the broken actuator.

Put the new actuator in place and orient the spring as before. Replace the plates and screws and put everything back together.

If you have big hands, everything is a bit tight so, a small magnetized philips screwdriver or a screwholding screwdriver will make for easy work. I used a little scotch tape to hold the screw to the screw driver and it worked but, it took a few tries. Good Luck!

The hardest part was figuring out how the front plate comes off. The tray will come forward when pried with a screwdriver. Then the top will come off but you will have to leave on due to attached wires. After that it was a piece of cake. Unscrew screws (6), remove small plates holding arm in place, remove arm, replace with new actuator, and close things up. As far as the valve, just take your time and, if needed, cut off pointed ends of tubings and push into new valve. Unplug color coded plugs and plug into new valve. Reattach valve to fridge and your done. We started everything up before attaching backing to make sure there were no leaks.

First of all Don't panic! you can do it and you can save a lot of $$$ if you do it yourself. A friend advice me to look it up online resources and came accross part select on YouTube .

The process:
Defrost the fridge. Take down the panels on the fridge to have room to unscrew the back panels. Once you've taken the back panel out. You will see the thermostat right away. Replace it and voila you're done.

The 4 lines attached to water valve have compression fittings.New valve has pex fittings.I cut each line just behind the ferrel and inserted each line into the proper fitting and reattached the 3 electrical plugs.Turned water back on.I immediately got water from thr door without dripping.For whatever reason it was not making ice for the first 3 days,I pulled the plug on the icemaker solenoid and reattached.It is working now.

Just took out 4-5 screws and follow the instructions and repair went great

Followed the steps in the video on your site, really easy to do.

-unplug power cord.(safety first!
-Removed evaporator cover in freezer. found defrost thermostat defective.
-use hair dryer to manually defrost coil from ice build-up.
-unclip thermostat from coil.
-cut wires close to the defrost thermostat; remove defective thermostat.
-clip on new defrost thermostat.
-connect wires using included butt connectors including shrink tubing (also included)
-replace coil cover.
-plug power cord back in.

This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!

Removed the two screws that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. Everything matched up perfectly.

Removed supports with pliers and used center punch to push broken plugs out of hole and inserted the new supports.

I removed the old gate by using a flat head screw driver to pry open mouth. I then removed 2 bolts that held on the cage that hols the ice crushing blades. Then I inserted the new gate and used a screw driver to pry the mouth open again (it was more difficult to insert than remove). I then popped in the new gate and re-assembled the cage. It worked on the first shot with no problems!

This is the 3rd time I have attemped and successfully repaired major home appliances myself after the warrenty ran out. I'm sure I could buy a new appliance for the money I saved.