FRT17G4BWC Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

super easy. 2 min

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

Turned off fridge circuit breaker
Removed all food from freezer and put in cooler.
Removed shelves from freezer
Removed ice maker
Removed 2 hex head screws
Tilted back evaporator cover and tried to unplug connection.
Found connection was iced over with a huge block of ice coming from water inlet to ice maker
Spent several hours trying to melt and chip away ice without damaging fridge.
Finally was able to break up ice with long flat head screwdriver and hammer.
Unplugged connector and was able to remove evaporator cover.
Cut wires near thermostat and removed
Stripped wire as needed and crimped new thermostat in place.
Used heat gun and lighter to melt heat shrink. This took a long time and required a lot more heat than expected.
Reconnected evaporator cover connection and reattached cover.
Reinstalled ice maker
Reinstalled shelves.
Put food back in
Turned circuit breaker back on.

From discussions with friends, I determined the problem might be easy to fix. The fridge made a lot of noise, but the compressor DID come on, and inside the freezer was cold, but the main fridge was warming.

After unplugging the fridge, I removed the fan assembly in the freezer (there were about 4 nuts and a couple of plugs to uncouple.

I could see right away the fan blades has broken off, but the motor looked good. The new new fan pushed easily onto the shift and fit perfectly in the housing.

I reinstalled the fan assembly, plugged in the fridge, and right away heard the new fan come on - very quietly. What was a roar became a whisper and the fridge was down to 38 degrees with a few hours.

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.

You tube is my best friend for DIY repair. I supported the door with wood blocks, removed the bottom bracket and was able to slide the refrigerator door down and out without removing the freezer door. Replaced both hinge bearings and door stop and washer on bottom hinge and slid the door back into place. Door is very light when empty. Fast and easy, door opens and closes smoothly and no problem with condensation anymore.

Emptied the shelf. Took out the shelf. Screwed in the one screw for the support rail. Put shelf back in. Put drawer back in. Works like a charm.

Pulled the drawer out, lifted the shelf out of the refrigerator, unscrewed drawer slides from shelf and rescrewed the new drawer slides and returned the shelf, drawer, and the job was finished. Thank you so very much for your speedy delivery.

Looked up similar problems and found it to be the defrost timer. All I had to do was remove the plastic portion in the fridge section to get to the old timer. Popped the new one in and put it back together. Works great now. Would have been almost $150 to have a repair company come out and fix it.

Took one screw out to remove the old rail off by removing one screw placed the new one into the slot and replaced the screw and put the drawer back into the refrigerator

Snapped the new rack right into place.

Removed four screws for cover on refrigerator temperature controls, unpluged old timer and pluged in new timer. Replaced cover and screws.

Ordered a new one and simply slid it into place

Removed the housing with the light, 4 hexhead screws. This exposed the defrost timer, removed 2 hexhead screws, electrical connector and reassembled the unit.

Great resource and service, thank you.

husband did it in less than 3 minutes. took top shelf out with part attached. one little screw to remove broke piece and one screw to install replacement part, good as new. took longer to clean the shelf before replacing it back in fridge.