FRS3HR35KM3 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Simply detached the old ice container by removing four screws and removing one screw holding the lever onto the bottom of the container. A bit of advice; make sure you note how the spring is attached to the lever before removing the screw. It took me a bit to determine how the spring activated the lever when I was reattaching it to the bottom of the container. Also, double check your order before you finalize it. I must have inadvertently hit the item twice so I received two of them. This resulted in me having to return one item and paying for extra shipping both ways. I received the part within two days of my order. It was a very fast turn-around. Also, when I realized that I received two parts and had to call to explain the situation, I found the person on the phone to be extremely helpful and courteous. She sent me information regarding how to return the product and didn't ridicule me once for my stupidity.

I used pliers to get the remaining shelf support studs out, then the new ones just snapped right in place. Very easy repair!

No previous experience with this appliance, a 36 inch side by side unit. Had to determine how to access the area to replace the part. This is done from the front with the door closed. The bottom shelf in the dispenser area elevates and slips out. Retainer screws are then evident. Remove screws that hold trim and then unplug the electric attachment for the switches from the trim which contains the light and selection controls. Next remove the screws placed around the circuit board holder. This then allows the section attaching the ice dispenser and water dispenser to be pulled forward. Do not disconnect the water tube. Two small metal retainers for the water dispenser can then be removed (three small screws) carefully. Remove the broken part of the old actuator and place the new one in the slots. Replace the retainers (start the retainer screws by hand unless you have a magnetic screwdriver). Replace the section holding the circuit board; then the trim and the bottom shelf. Easier than anticipated.

I ordered the part from PartSelect using the part number located on the valve itself. The part was delivered in less than 48 hours from the time I entered it. Replacing the valve was easy and went according to the online video instructions provided by PartSelect. The only thing extra was that I had to replace the brass compression fitting on the copper tubing connected to the inlet of the valve. The old one would not seal properly. The compression fitting was about $1.50 at Home Depot. This is my third purchase from PartSelect and I continue to be impressed by them.

Replaced bad parts with new parts it went easy

Repair man wanted a 130.00 service charge plus parts , With the help of YouTube we did the repairs inhouse , couldn't believe it was that easy. Refrigerator is working like a new one ,our maintenance crew has ice cubes were all happy !

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.

removed water tray, used a razor blade to brake the seal from the face plate and the fridge, The hardest part was the three screws holding the dispenser face place on where rusted over. I wound up drilling them out. Once the screws removed, a slight lift, the face plate comes right off. I unplugged the cable, and set it aside. Now remove the next three screws, and the dispenser falls forward, (as far as the water line allows) undo the screws leaving the one emplace to hold the ice lever. push up twist. The hard part is getting the new one up and in. just takes a little patients.

From discussions with friends, I determined the problem might be easy to fix. The fridge made a lot of noise, but the compressor DID come on, and inside the freezer was cold, but the main fridge was warming.

After unplugging the fridge, I removed the fan assembly in the freezer (there were about 4 nuts and a couple of plugs to uncouple.

I could see right away the fan blades has broken off, but the motor looked good. The new new fan pushed easily onto the shift and fit perfectly in the housing.

I reinstalled the fan assembly, plugged in the fridge, and right away heard the new fan come on - very quietly. What was a roar became a whisper and the fridge was down to 38 degrees with a few hours.

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

The repair could not be completed. I ordered a thermostat defrost kit but received a collar arbor for a saw. They do not answer the phone at customer service and the order took close to two weeks to get in the first place. Beware of shopping at this site!

Not knowing the history of the refrigerator/freezer and observing that the icemaker would cycle (ice ejector fingers would rotate when the off/on arm was toggled), I concluded that the water valve must have some hard water scale in it which was causing it to stick. I replaced the water valve and the exact same behavior continued. By elimination, I concluded that the microswitch in the icemaker must be sticking. I removed the icemaker, used a hair blow-dryer to heat/dry out the microswitches and then a little shot of WD-40 on the mechanical arms, switches, and cams fixed it.

Simply unscrewed cover on water filter and pulled old filter out. New filter comes with o-ring on filter. Simply reversed procedure and installed new filter.

My hand turned the water filter casing around until it unscrewed and then I put in the new water filter.
Screwed the casing tight and I was finished.

Downloaded a schematic of the ice container. Disassembled the ice container, keeping track of which different type of screws went where. Followed the schematic to ensure proper sequence of blades and spacers. Manually rotated unit prior to installing into the freezer in case of binding. Finished.