FGHC2335LP2 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Marcus from Bessemer, AL
- Parts Used:
- 5303918344
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Ice maker non functioning, Ice maker not sending signal for w
Remove the old ice maker by loosening the screws and disconnect wire harness , next fit new ice maker in place connect wire harness and place new ice maker in place put screws in and tighten.
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- Customer:
- Patricia from VICTORVILLE, CA
- Parts Used:
- 240599803
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The frame for the meat pan in my Frigidaire refrigerator broke in the middle front, which made opening the drawer a little tricky.
No big deal. I took out the glass in the frame, took out the meat drawer, and removed the broken frame, which doesn't take any tools. After removing the frame, I inserted the new frame, which pops in to two clips in the back, and two in the front on each side. I cleaned the glass and put it into the frame. I re-inserted the drawer into the frame. And VOILA!
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- Customer:
- Andrew from BROOKLYN, NY
- Parts Used:
- 241914703
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Ice container plastic piece broke
Took the old ice container out and replaced it with the new one
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- Customer:
- James from KNOXVILLE, TN
- Parts Used:
- 241798231
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Ice maker would dump ice one time and then stop. Turning the ice maker off for a minute and back on would repeat the process.
I removed the two side mount screws with a screwdriver and disconnected the electrical plug to the ice maker to remove it. I reversed the process to install the new one.
It was the thermostat that was the problem, but I chose to replace the entire ice maker for only $25 more.
It was the thermostat that was the problem, but I chose to replace the entire ice maker for only $25 more.
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- Customer:
- paul from BERKLEY, MI
- Parts Used:
- 5303918214
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Defrost terminator (Thermostat) Was Stuck Open, Not Allowing Defrost, Heat Gun or Hair Dryer
PURCHASE:
Buy the terminator from the site because they sell the
terminator (thermostat) separately. Other places have it with the
wiring harness for more money. Changing it with the harness attached
is a very, very involved project. It includes removing the entire inner
liner of the freezer. The one the site sells requires only a simple
crimp splice and shrink tube.
TEST- If you have another freezer, ice or a friend's freezer available,
it is highly recommended that the new part be tested:
You will need an Ohm meter or a continuity tester. You can make one
very easily per instructions found on line.
TEST RESULTS-
a) At room temperature. An Ohm meter should show "Open".
b) After being in a freezer or submerged in ice water for at least an
hour, the Ohm meter should show "Closed".
I have installed hundreds of defrost thermostats. Very occasionally
one is defective. This project is a bit involved, so it is wise to pre-test.
HOW TO INSTALL THE DEFROST TERMINATOR (THERMOSTAT):
A) Prep
Remove Food & Be sure the freezer is warm.
Parts need to be pried upon & cold plastic breaks easily.
Tip: Put the screws in separate cups with labels. This will make
re-installing the many components easier.
Gather tools from the attached list.
B) Unplug Unit (Turning it off is not sufficient protection against shock.)
C) Remove Light Bulb (If it gets broken while working, glass may
get in the eyes.)
D) Remove Drawers (This is a bottom freezer unit with 2 drawers)
1) ) Upper Drawer:
a) Locate the 2 rectangular boxes covering the gears. They are
on each side, toward the rear of the drawer.
b) With a nylon spudger, push in the 2 clips on each box and
lift the boxes 1/4". They will stop at 1/4".
c) At the front of each track, remove 2 hex head screws with a
5/15" nut driver or a 1/4" flat bladed screwdriver.
d) Lift the front of the drawer a small amount while pulling drawer.
Lifting allows the 2 stops on the drawer to clear the track tabs.
e) When near the end of the drawer, lift the gear wheels slightly
to clear the track.
f) Put the drawer out of the way.
2) Lower Drawer With Front Door
*Leaving the door attached makes it easier to align the drawer when
reinstalling it later. It must be straight or the gasket will gap.
a) Put a thick towel on the floor, in front of the unit, so the door
can be laid upon in without scratching the handle or the floor.
b) Pull the drawer out and look at each track about 2/3 of the way
to the back of the freezer. You will see two long, white tabs.
c) Push a tab in while pulling the track slightly forward. Firm pulling
is required. Repeat on the other side.
d) Drag the towel and door out of the way
D) Remove the air grill at the top, rear of the freezer.
1) There is a clip in the center to push with a spudger.
It is easy to see in a photo of a replacement fan bracket.
2) On the right side, in the top row of square holes, is another clip
to press with a spudger while pulling that side of the grill out.
3) On the left, there is an air chute blocking the clip. It can not be
removed. With the right side pulled free, gently wiggle & pull the
left side until the clip clears & the grill is free to leave.
E) Remove the Ice Maker (Water does not have to be turned off)
1) Loosen, but do not remove, 2 screws above the ice mold.
2) Remove the one lower screw & put it aside.
3) Lift the ice maker & store it out of the way.
4) Do Not turn any wheels by hand, nor bend the bail wire.
F) Remove the Thermistor Cover (Upper Right Back Wall)
1) Gently squeeze the sides while pulling. Stop as soon as it's free.
2) Note how the thermistor & wires are installed in the cover &
thread the thermistor free.
3) Set the cover aside.
G) Remove The back Wall
1) Remove all visible hex head screws.
2) The back wall can now be removed.
3) Set it aside where it will not scratch any surfaces, as the edges
are a little sharp
H) De-Ice the evaporator with a heat gun or hair dryer.
Don't hold the heat source in one spot for long or wire insulation
or plastic components will be damaged.
I) Note the permanent ice ball in the upper-right corner.
The defrost thermostat is under this ball. Melt it with heat.
J) Install The New Thermostat
Hint- Take the thermostat to a hardware store to buy the
correct size shrink tube and crimp sleeves (butt connectors)
Buy the terminator from the site because they sell the
terminator (thermostat) separately. Other places have it with the
wiring harness for more money. Changing it with the harness attached
is a very, very involved project. It includes removing the entire inner
liner of the freezer. The one the site sells requires only a simple
crimp splice and shrink tube.
TEST- If you have another freezer, ice or a friend's freezer available,
it is highly recommended that the new part be tested:
You will need an Ohm meter or a continuity tester. You can make one
very easily per instructions found on line.
TEST RESULTS-
a) At room temperature. An Ohm meter should show "Open".
b) After being in a freezer or submerged in ice water for at least an
hour, the Ohm meter should show "Closed".
I have installed hundreds of defrost thermostats. Very occasionally
one is defective. This project is a bit involved, so it is wise to pre-test.
HOW TO INSTALL THE DEFROST TERMINATOR (THERMOSTAT):
A) Prep
Remove Food & Be sure the freezer is warm.
Parts need to be pried upon & cold plastic breaks easily.
Tip: Put the screws in separate cups with labels. This will make
re-installing the many components easier.
Gather tools from the attached list.
B) Unplug Unit (Turning it off is not sufficient protection against shock.)
C) Remove Light Bulb (If it gets broken while working, glass may
get in the eyes.)
D) Remove Drawers (This is a bottom freezer unit with 2 drawers)
1) ) Upper Drawer:
a) Locate the 2 rectangular boxes covering the gears. They are
on each side, toward the rear of the drawer.
b) With a nylon spudger, push in the 2 clips on each box and
lift the boxes 1/4". They will stop at 1/4".
c) At the front of each track, remove 2 hex head screws with a
5/15" nut driver or a 1/4" flat bladed screwdriver.
d) Lift the front of the drawer a small amount while pulling drawer.
Lifting allows the 2 stops on the drawer to clear the track tabs.
e) When near the end of the drawer, lift the gear wheels slightly
to clear the track.
f) Put the drawer out of the way.
2) Lower Drawer With Front Door
*Leaving the door attached makes it easier to align the drawer when
reinstalling it later. It must be straight or the gasket will gap.
a) Put a thick towel on the floor, in front of the unit, so the door
can be laid upon in without scratching the handle or the floor.
b) Pull the drawer out and look at each track about 2/3 of the way
to the back of the freezer. You will see two long, white tabs.
c) Push a tab in while pulling the track slightly forward. Firm pulling
is required. Repeat on the other side.
d) Drag the towel and door out of the way
D) Remove the air grill at the top, rear of the freezer.
1) There is a clip in the center to push with a spudger.
It is easy to see in a photo of a replacement fan bracket.
2) On the right side, in the top row of square holes, is another clip
to press with a spudger while pulling that side of the grill out.
3) On the left, there is an air chute blocking the clip. It can not be
removed. With the right side pulled free, gently wiggle & pull the
left side until the clip clears & the grill is free to leave.
E) Remove the Ice Maker (Water does not have to be turned off)
1) Loosen, but do not remove, 2 screws above the ice mold.
2) Remove the one lower screw & put it aside.
3) Lift the ice maker & store it out of the way.
4) Do Not turn any wheels by hand, nor bend the bail wire.
F) Remove the Thermistor Cover (Upper Right Back Wall)
1) Gently squeeze the sides while pulling. Stop as soon as it's free.
2) Note how the thermistor & wires are installed in the cover &
thread the thermistor free.
3) Set the cover aside.
G) Remove The back Wall
1) Remove all visible hex head screws.
2) The back wall can now be removed.
3) Set it aside where it will not scratch any surfaces, as the edges
are a little sharp
H) De-Ice the evaporator with a heat gun or hair dryer.
Don't hold the heat source in one spot for long or wire insulation
or plastic components will be damaged.
I) Note the permanent ice ball in the upper-right corner.
The defrost thermostat is under this ball. Melt it with heat.
J) Install The New Thermostat
Hint- Take the thermostat to a hardware store to buy the
correct size shrink tube and crimp sleeves (butt connectors)
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- Customer:
- Mark from O FALLON, IL
- Parts Used:
- 242221501
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Ice auger not working to push the ice to the ice dispenser
Easy to remove the auger Motor and Solenoid, however, it didn't fix the problem. $300.00 into it I now have to purchase a circuit board for $382.00. Not a happy camper.
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- Customer:
- Thomas from WESTAMPTON, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 241798231
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Ice maker stopped making ice.
The repair was fast and easy .I removed the ice tray , disconnected the wiring connector and lossend two screws. I removed ice maker assy.and repeated in reverse order to install. I also installed a new water filter. I had ice in about 20 minutes.
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- Customer:
- Alan from SAN MATEO, CA
- Parts Used:
- 316538904
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Repaired Oven Range Light Bulb
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Double springs, AL
- Parts Used:
- 242252702
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Water was leaking from the old valve
Watched the video on your website and you can’t go wrong.
Thanks for being there
Mike
Thanks for being there
Mike
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- Customer:
- Joel from SODUS POINT, NY
- Parts Used:
- 242252702
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
No water to ice maker
Repair was easy. Unplug refrigerator, turn off water to ice maker, remove back panel, disconnect water inlet valve, disconnect water supplies and electrical connections. Cut ends off tubing to modify to new part connections, connect tubing, connect electrical supplies, reinstall back panel, plug refrigerator in, turn water supply back on. We made sure that there was no ice build up in the supply tube into the ice maker and made sure that everything worked correctly before putting it all back together. It was an easy repair.
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- Customer:
- DAVE from CRESTON, IA
- Parts Used:
- 241684503
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Ice maker would not dischare ice
Followed the online video from this site
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- Customer:
- Gregory from POTTSTOWN, PA
- Parts Used:
- EAFCBF
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
NO PROBLEM JUST DECIDED IT WAS TIME TO CHANGE FILTER
VERY EASY SLIDE OLD ONE OUT AND PUT NEW ONE IT
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- Customer:
- Edward from GROTON, CT
- Parts Used:
- 241798231
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Ice maker stopped working. Part needed to repair it no longer available so had to replace the whole icemaker.
Loosened the two mounting screws (no need to remove them), lift off the icemaker and unplug it. Reverse the order and done.
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- Customer:
- Richard from SEATTLE, WA
- Parts Used:
- 242009604
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Water filter would not disconnect from OEM Water Filter Base
Disconnect the two water supply tubes at the base of the Water Filter Base. Using a 7/16" open end wrench, press up on the blue "O" rings to disconnect the tubes. Use a Using an 8" long magnetic phillips head screw driver I was able to unscrew the 4 short screws holding the original water filter base and the immovable attached water filter. Replacement was easy. Simply slide the new base into the fixed slot on the refrigerator and reinstall the 4 holding screws. Reconnect the water supply tubes to the Water Filter Base. Install a new water filter.
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