FGUI2149LR0 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Loosen two screws, unclip electrical connection, remove ice maker, remove l shaped leveling piece of metal from old one, put on new one. Install in reverse order. Hint.. when loosening two screws, use a mirror

I removed a couple of screws from the old part, and inserted the new part. Replaced the screws and I was done. No problem. I'm an almost 60 year old woman, and fixed this myself. It was so easy.

At first I tried to insall the new gasket with the door still attached to the refrigerator. It was difficult to assure that the bottom of the gasket was properly installed at the bottom. As a result I removed the door from the refrigerator, finished installing the gasket and then put the door back on the refrigerator

Test the light socket first with a bulb that you know is good. If the light still does not come on, unplug the refrigerator, remove the switch by inserting a very small, thin, flathead screwdriver alongside it and pull the switch out slowly with your other hand. There are two wires there. Remove them gently with some needle nose pliers. If you want to test to see if the switch is defective, take a insulated jumper wire, and attach it between the two wires. Plug the refrigerator back in and see if the light comes on. If the light does come on, replace with a new switch by re-attaching the wires and placing it back in the hole firmly.

The lower compartment was hovering around 50 degrees. Logic told me that cold air was not being driven from the freezer to the lower compartment. At first, I found the passageway between freezer and lower compartment was blocked with frost/ice, which could have been the entire problem. But why was that ice accumulated there? After defrosting, the problem was only partly solved. A few how-to videos suggested that the defrost timer was a common problem, so I tried that, the part was about $11, with minimal improvement. So I concluded that the fan was not driving cold air from the freezer to the lower section. I tested the fan by removing the freezer back panel completely, wiring the fan to an old ordinary power cord, and plugging that in to a wall outlet. The fan would not start on its own, would only turn if I gave it a spin, and then was very weak - I could stop it with a finger without pain! When my new fan arrived, I again removed the back panel in the freezer and replaced the fan, just a few screws to remove, then swap the fan blade to the new fan motor. The process was simple and obvious. Now the lower section stays near 40 degrees, though I'm not convinced that's the only problem-there seems to be a lot of variation in the temperature. BTW, I had also confirmed the defrost heating element was functional by activating the defrost timer (see youtube), to eliminate that from the diagnosis.

first i removed the four screws that hold the shelve in place disconnected the wire replace both diffuser-air,reconnected the wire and replaced the screws

Bought a new
capacitor.

just snap the new piece in place.

Followed the steps in the video on your site, really easy to do.

I slid the new glass in place

My 4 year old grandson used the frig door as a swing.The bottom hinge cracked, then the door wouldn't seal. I propped the door up with some books, removed the broken hinge (2 bolts) and replaced with the new part. Simple fix on the door, only time will fix the 4 year old!

This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!

the parts were exactly right and fit perfectly. they came quickly and arrived in great shape. I simply removed the broken pieces and replaced them with the new plastic frame to hold the crisper pans and the new pan.

I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.

Pulled the refrigerator out from the wall. Then unplugged it took my nutdriver with a1/4" socket on it and took out the screws from the cardboard back on the bottom of the refrigerator. Then I removed the two screws holding the water valve on. Then I unscrewed the supply water line from the main water inlet valve. Then I removed the outlet waterline going to the ice maker from the water valve. Then I reversed the procedure to put it back together. Hooked up the main water line and turned the water valve on for the water to flow to the valve at first nothing happened had to wait for a couple of hours for everything else to get to the right temperature before the ice maker would start making ice.