FGHS2365KF5 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

We followed the video instructions and it went fairly smooth. After turning off the water at the street we found that the faucet at the wall had it's own "on/off" valve. When finished, we turned on the power and heard the gears going through their revolutions, but no ice was made. We waited 24 hours and still no ice. I removed the cover on the ice maker and adjusted the amount of water to see if that was malfunctioning. Still no ice was created. Waited another 24 hours - nothing. Waited another 24 hours (the site said that sometimes the ice maker would take time to reset itself) - nothing. Then on the fourth day after changing out the triple water valve we heard water being dispensed and later that day it put out the first ice in weeks. Another hour later another batch of ice cubes were ready and deposited into the bin. Since that time, we have had a full bin. I moved the set screw back to it's original setting because a little too much water was being delivered. The cubes weren't separating to individual cubes. That cleared up the problem. This was easily completed - we recommend others do their own work. Just be patient for the system to reset itself.

I had removed the housing that the drum was in and taken the screws out to get to the broken drum. I removed it there was a set of 6 blades that crushed the ice that had to go back on the same order when I removed these I put them on a piece of wire in the order they came off (so I would get them back I the correct order). Then I reversed the order and reassembled it in the opposite direction . It was fairly easy to do. I'm a 68 year old disabled woman so if I could do it I'm sure you could to. Good luck. It cost me $14.00 if I had bought the whole assembly it would have been $150.00. So it was well worth my time and effort.

Took the ice storage bin out. Took the unit apart,and disamble the augar unit. Ordered parts from manufacture, which arrived in two days. As soon as I got the parts, I reassambled it. Work perfect. Good job!

I followed the video tutorial published here. The step I altered was setting the shrink wrap; I did not have a heat gun to safely shrink it, so I folded it tightly onto itself and wrapped it in electrical tape. No more frost buildup.

Unscrew 4 screws . Remove broken basket hangers. Install new basketo hangers. Screw in 4 retaining screws...

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Took drawers out by removing 2 screws on top of rail near front, then popped black plastic cover off in lower right inside cabinet...sensor just un plugged and new one plugged in easily...did not fix problem though...display set at 34 but bottom drawer reads about 40 at best and upper drawer reads around 55...dont think the 3 little fans inside on back wall have been running

very easy to do. just snap into place

Consult the exploded view of the Ice Container on this site. A likely cause the end plate (17) is worn. This plate connects the rotating corkscrew to the final plastic worm that pushes the ice into the crusher and thence to your waiting glass. The worm alone will not do the trick. To replace this plate, you need to take out all of the screws you can see, including the one that holds the spring for the crusher select bar.. First, the front cover, then the plate, and finally, locking ring from the worm and the black housing for the crusher. Now you can remove the whole worm assembly. Using a cloth or rubber insulator to protect it, unscrew the end screw and slide off the crusher teeth. Store on the table as a unit to facilitate re-assembly. Slide off the old bar and worm, put them back, and re-assemble. Takes a little dexterity to get the crusher select bar back, but not hard. Easy job.

Remove the bottom freezer drawer. Remove back metal evaporator panel. Wire in new defrost terminationT-stat. Reassemble evap panel. Good to go.

Replaced the Triple Water Valve

Looked at video on how to remove and reinstall support and followed the instruct ions

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Support studs have an expansion fitting - center post has to be pushed through to allow expansion joint to collapse for removal. After installation, this post can be pushed in or pulled out to secure the stud and be the proper length to hold the bins.

None of this was obvious - an online tip from another member was invaluable.

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.