FRT21P6BSK4 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

A little difficult getting out due to restricted space, I took off the fan blade, that gave extra working room. Then it went well going back together,and it all worked as advertised. Thanks. p

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.

Most of my time was spent removing food items from the shelf that supported the rails. Once that was done, a quick removal of the screw, replace the left support rail and re-installing the screw. Done. I wish all of my repairs were so easy!

Emptied the shelf. Took out the shelf. Screwed in the one screw for the support rail. Put shelf back in. Put drawer back in. Works like a charm.

Wow. What an easy repair. It was so easy I literally had my 10 year son complete the repair.

(Handyman requirement for Cub scouts).

Removed 1 screw and pulled out old broken guide rail, replaced with new part and screwed it back in.

It took long to wash and clean the shelves we pulled out than it did to make the repair.

easy. took glass tray that held meat draw out. unscrewed old rail screw new one in. put glass try back in frig. put meat try back in.

I broke the glass shelf in my refrigerator. I had trouble navigating the website, so I called the customer service line, and the lady was lovely to speak with, and ordered my part quickly! In 2 days I had the part, and it fit perfectly!

Great service, great price!
Thank you!

Looked up similar problems and found it to be the defrost timer. All I had to do was remove the plastic portion in the fridge section to get to the old timer. Popped the new one in and put it back together. Works great now. Would have been almost $150 to have a repair company come out and fix it.

Took one screw out to remove the old rail off by removing one screw placed the new one into the slot and replaced the screw and put the drawer back into the refrigerator

Pulled the drawer out, lifted the shelf out of the refrigerator, unscrewed drawer slides from shelf and rescrewed the new drawer slides and returned the shelf, drawer, and the job was finished. Thank you so very much for your speedy delivery.

Removed the screws on the piece holding the switch which is at the front of the ceiling of the refrigerator box. Removed the old switch and replaced it. Very simple repair.

Screwdriver

I ordered four bearing hinges and drill holes for the hinges on top and bottom of frezer and fridge doors insert the bearing hinges on the holes and all the other part on the door were able to reversed.

Checked for continuity in heater, defrost thermostat and defrost timer. Heater good; not sure about thermostat or timer. Replaced thermostat - no change. Replaced timer - rotating and heater working.

I watched the video on how to change the defrost thermostat. I removed the back cover inside the freezer then I pulled off the old defrost thermostat and then using a pair of wire cutters I cut it off and then bared a little of both of the wires and then slid the heat sherink and wire connectors on the existing wires and then slid the other ends of the wires into the wire connectors then crimped the ends of the connectors and then tried using heat on the heat shrinks but still used rubber electric tape over it. I clipped the new thermostat were the old one was and then reattached the freezer wall cover and plugged the refrigerator back in. 24 hours later I checked the temperature in the refrigerator and freezer and both are running a lot colder.