FPE16TCL0 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

I original tried to repair the motor but was not able to. I remove the screws on the back plate and removed the the back plate. Removed the shroud for the motor and screws, unplug the power connection and removed the fan motor. Installed the new fan motor and reassembled everything. The refrigerator is working great.

Replaced the refrigerator thermostat. One hex-head screw in the rear and two tabs on the front hold the thermostat cover on. The temperature knob pulls off by friction, exposing two phillips-head screws that hold the thermostat in place. Two power wires and one ground wire are held on by clips. The replacement thermostat is a different shape than the original, but it is a direct fit. This replacement eliminated the problem. The only thing that made the job difficult was not having any instructions nor any wiring diagrams for the refrigerator.

1. Unplug the refrigerator.2. Remove the storage rack and back panel in the freezer. 3. Locate the thermostat. 4. Defrost the freezer coils , i used a hair dryer. 5. Remove the thermostat from the cooling coil and then clip the connecting wires close to the unit. 6. Strip the ends of these wires and connect these wires to the wires of the replacement unit using the supplied wire connectors. 6. Heat seal with a lighter the connections using the water shield sleeves provided and further wrap connections with electrical tape. 7. Reconnect the thermostat to the cooling coil at the location it was removed from. 8. Replace the freezer back panel removed earlierand the storage rack if you have one. 9. Plug the freezer back in. My refrigerator has been working ever since the repair. There are several YouTube videos available that walk you through the diagnoses and repair process. They are very good.

The old drain pan had a 1 ½” tall bushing attached to the center of the pan. The new pan did not have this bushing which was great. I had to cut about 1 inch off the bushing to remove the old pan. Also after cutting the bushing I had to screw the bushing off after cutting the old pan from the bushing. I installed new pan onto the ½” of threads that was left on the top of the compressor. Checked repair two days later all was great.

the first thing was just trying to find parts for a very old product. i searched around till i somehow came across the part select website. and, eureka they had the gaskets ! then, i had a need for door shelf caps. and again, there they were on the exploded schematic ! with the purchase of these plus parts for the door, washers and center and lower hinge pins, i was able to renew our refrig and save a lot of money. removing both doors was very easy and all was done with a minimal amount of manual labor. now the doors are tight and closely evenly.

change the evaporator fan motor kit working perfect

After reading other posts, I decided to change the defrost thermostat, so I watched the videos, and did that. It got better, but the problem persisted, and the ice was still building up in the freezer section. So I decided that the problem was with the defrost heater. I ordered a new one, that was here under 24hs (using the Fedex ground). I replaced it, measured the old one and saw that it was not passing any current at all (so it was really burnt). Now the fridge is good as new, maintaining the proper temperatures both at Freezer and Fridge sections. Thank you Parts Select ! With $ 70 in parts I was able to get back my appliance working !!!

Unplug the refrigerator unit from wall. I removed freezer rack, plastic light cover, the ice rack shelf on the right side, then removed the plastic back cover panel, (4) retaining screws, gently tilting the panel toward me, unplug the wiring harness by depressing the clips on the side of the plug, removed panel from unit, set aside. If the unit was froze up, so I defrosted the cooling coils carefully with a common hair dryer until it was thawed. Be careful not to touch or bend the coils , since they are very fragile and SHARP! I located the old thermostat unit attached to a straight length of coolant line. The new unit looked like the old one, so it was easy to locate. I cut the two wires of the old unit close to the round base to make sure I would have enough wire to reconnect. Since my new unit did not indicate a polarity(Neg or Pos), I just wired each wire I cut to one of the new unit. I used the shrink tubing provided and heated the shrink till it was fully melted. I double ck'd to see if the wires were basically waterproof and a good connect. Also, before I replaced the rear panel, I made sure that both wires I had spliced had a drip loop to it so water would not drip down into the newly spliced union. Also made sure the wires will not interfere with the colling fan on the back of the rear panel. Reverse the procedure in reassembling. Plug in unit, and wait and listen for the unit coming back on..I kept a regular thermometer in the upper and lower compartments. Allow 24 hrs. for the unit to return to normal operation. It may defrost several times till the whole operation is back in sync.

Snapped new caps in place . Took about 30 seconds!

This poor frig.(purchased in 1984) has gone thru five military moves. Somewhere along the line the plastic tabs to the door shelves broke, but I retained the metal bars. I hoped to find the required plastic ends to fix them and you had exactly what I needed. The repair was so fast and easy. The amount of pressure was a bit more than I originally thought was needed but they all went in perfectly.

Turned off water. Took cardboard backing off lower back of unit. Unscrewed the old adaptor from the water distributor. Unscrewed the water hose connection from the adaptor. Put plumbers tape on new adaptor. Re-connected water hose to new adaptor and re-attached the adaptor to the water distributor. Turned water on, checked for leaks, and tightened adaptor to water distributor until leak stopped (approximately a quarter turn) after hand tightening. Easy, hardest part was pulling out the unit and putting it back in place!

Simply snapped ends into shelf and snapped into the fridge door.

there were three possible problems the timer, the thermostat, or the heating element.i replaced the timer first as that is the problem 65% of the time and that did not fix the problem, i replaced the thermostat and that did fix the problem. after watching the video on line from parts select i took the back off of the freezer from the inside, defrosted the coils with a hair blower and then swapped out the thermostat which pops right off and i spliced the old connectors to the new thermostat. the heat shrink tubing that came with the part was a little to big so i put a smaller peice on each side for water proofing. that is what the cigarette lighter is for to supply heat to the heat shrink tubing.now that i have fixed that problem i may tackle the ice maker next

Removed shelving, and rear panels. Replaced condenser fan and defrost thermostat. Defrost coil ohmed fine. Reassembled and plugged in fridge with thermometers inside. Freezer at 22degrees and fridge at 32 degrees. My first time repairing a fridge. the partselect videos were very helpful.

The repair was straightfoward. The evaporator motor I received from partselect was a different model with different wiring configurations. I cut the wires from the new motor per the instructions I received with the new motor and I did the same with the wires that connect to the fridge. Once I matched the wires and secured them with electrical caps I began to put the evaporator motor to the base and started screwing the screws the way I took them off. Once I connected the wire harness to the back of the freezer and turned it on I noticed a big difference in air flow. I was surprised at how easy it was to fix my refrigirator problem. It's been a few weeks now and the fridge is cold and working like it should. Don't be afraid of this task. it's very easy and will save you a ton of money. Thanks partselect.