FP18TFL2 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

I found this website via a google search and clicked on the link suggesting solutions for the symptoms I had. I decided to order the part (defrost timer) that was proven the larger percentage of time to fix my issue (warm refrigerator) but decided to also purchase the evaporator fan motor as it was suggested by my brother to replace it as well. We powered off the refrigerator and removed the back wall of the freezer and completely defrosted the unit. This seemed to be the most work and longest time to complete. We used a hair dryer to do this. Once the ice was gone, we replaced the defrost timer, which seemed to fix the warm refrigerator part. We didn't immediately swap out the evaporator fan as the power plugs did not connect properly and it was a little confusing on how to accomplish this. I called partselect back and they didn't have anyone that could talk to me throught the replacement process but recommended we call frigidaire. Meanwhile, we found out that the defrost timer corrected the warm refrigerator and now that the evaporator fan could move (no longer frozen in ice) it was making a lot of noise. So we contacted fridgidaire, and they were able to provide me with a similar video on connecting the power between the new evaporator fan motor and the refrigerator. . We ended up snipping both power connectors (from fridge and new part) and twisted the wires togehter and now the fan is moving without noise, the freezeer and refrigerator is working like a champ! Very happy outcome!

Removed shelving, and rear panels. Replaced condenser fan and defrost thermostat. Defrost coil ohmed fine. Reassembled and plugged in fridge with thermometers inside. Freezer at 22degrees and fridge at 32 degrees. My first time repairing a fridge. the partselect videos were very helpful.

Removed the control panel, removed the control knob, removed the defrost timer and installed new one, and removed temp control, installed new one. Refrigerator working great!!!!! :)

All I had to do was change out motors, and the fam would spin right,and the freezer was alive again. With your older models you may have to re-mount the motor bracket in the back for the fan to clear,due to the fact that the motor sits alittle lower than the old model

Unplug the refrigerator unit from wall. I removed freezer rack, plastic light cover, the ice rack shelf on the right side, then removed the plastic back cover panel, (4) retaining screws, gently tilting the panel toward me, unplug the wiring harness by depressing the clips on the side of the plug, removed panel from unit, set aside. If the unit was froze up, so I defrosted the cooling coils carefully with a common hair dryer until it was thawed. Be careful not to touch or bend the coils , since they are very fragile and SHARP! I located the old thermostat unit attached to a straight length of coolant line. The new unit looked like the old one, so it was easy to locate. I cut the two wires of the old unit close to the round base to make sure I would have enough wire to reconnect. Since my new unit did not indicate a polarity(Neg or Pos), I just wired each wire I cut to one of the new unit. I used the shrink tubing provided and heated the shrink till it was fully melted. I double ck'd to see if the wires were basically waterproof and a good connect. Also, before I replaced the rear panel, I made sure that both wires I had spliced had a drip loop to it so water would not drip down into the newly spliced union. Also made sure the wires will not interfere with the colling fan on the back of the rear panel. Reverse the procedure in reassembling. Plug in unit, and wait and listen for the unit coming back on..I kept a regular thermometer in the upper and lower compartments. Allow 24 hrs. for the unit to return to normal operation. It may defrost several times till the whole operation is back in sync.

change the evaporator fan motor kit working perfect

Unplug the refrigerator. Removed the right hand top shelf. Used a 1/4" nutdriver to remove rear center mounting screw for Control Housing. Used Phillips screwdriver to remove two mounting screws for timer. Unplug cable from timer and plug it into the new timer. Install the new timer and re-install the Control Housing. Plug in the refrigerator and adjust the timer to start the unit. This was a snap with the diagnostic provided by Part Select. At first I thought it was the fan rubbing but when I removed the cover (two screws) it was obvious that wasn't the problem. The diagnostic hinted that it was either the timer or the motor capacitor making the noise. Because the noise continued after turning OFF the control, I thought it was the timer...I was right.

removed everything from door, removed screws in gasket around door, laid door face down(insulation side up)applied rtv around edge of gasket and door, waited 10 minutes and started with top screw in middle of top then middle of sides and bottom then installed remaining screws checked levelness of refrigerator, the you are done

Problem not consistent. OK for 2-3 weeks, then freeze coils. Mark and observe the defrost timers manual rotating adjuster. Timer would stop mid cycle. One revolution equals 8 hours of compressor run time followed by 30 minutes of defrost. Replacing timer took 5 minutes.

I slid the new end cap onto the bar and snapped the bar back into place.

I followed the procedure online and found the thermostat was ok, it had continuity when cold, and the heater coil was also ok, it too had continuity, therefore the problem was a bad defrost timer. the refrigerator works great, thanks parts select!

I put the model number in the browser bar of internet and your site among others popped up.I was thrilled to find that you still supply this older model refrigerators hardware items. After Comparing prices, your site also listed the best price. The pictures you show of hardware I was needing was extremely helpful as it gave me assurance I was ordering the right product.From purchase to Delivery of item at my door a couple days later was a simple and fast. I was able to snap in new end cap brackets that hold the cross bar which holds back frozen foods in door compartment from falling out.

I first thought the defroster heater broke - took the back wall of the freezer off and cooling fins were fine. Then took the defroster timer out and opened it up. The contacts were badly burnt so the compressor and fan ran during only part of the cooling cycle. Replacing the timer took less than 5 minutes - turn off the power, remove one screw to take out the control box, cut the ground wire (new timer housing is plastic and does not have a ground connection), remove two screws to unmount the timer, unplug the old timer, plug in the new timer, fasten with two screws, put the control unit in and fasten with one screw, turn power back on.

You guys at Partselect are the best!!! Went to your site, typed in my appliance symptoms, and received possible fixes. Ordered the suggested parts (under $50) on a Sunday night and got em Tuesday am. Installed the easiest one first and Voila!!!! Frig is working great. Thanks Bob S

Remove 4 screws that hold up overhead controls, this is also the part that holds the light. Unplug the timer and replace. Super simple and runs great now. After you plug it in it may take a few minutes to kick on the compressor but it will. Also I was pleased it was a factory Frigidare part. Price was right.