FPDA18TPL2 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Slipped out the end caps with the broken prongs from the front rack and slipped in the new end caps. (3 mins.)

Problem not consistent. OK for 2-3 weeks, then freeze coils. Mark and observe the defrost timers manual rotating adjuster. Timer would stop mid cycle. One revolution equals 8 hours of compressor run time followed by 30 minutes of defrost. Replacing timer took 5 minutes.

I followed the procedure online and found the thermostat was ok, it had continuity when cold, and the heater coil was also ok, it too had continuity, therefore the problem was a bad defrost timer. the refrigerator works great, thanks parts select!

Snapped new caps in place . Took about 30 seconds!

The "repair" itself was only a replacement of a glass shelf but I just wanted to say that I ordered this part mid-day wednesday and when I got home from work thursday night it was on my deck, I was shocked. Also it was glass and was very securely packaged Great job parts direct.

This poor frig.(purchased in 1984) has gone thru five military moves. Somewhere along the line the plastic tabs to the door shelves broke, but I retained the metal bars. I hoped to find the required plastic ends to fix them and you had exactly what I needed. The repair was so fast and easy. The amount of pressure was a bit more than I originally thought was needed but they all went in perfectly.

Unplugged the frig. Removed temp control module from frig, 1 screw with nut driver. Activated defrost timer by rotating adjustment until 2 clicks are heard. Removed two timer mounting screws, unpluged timer, plugged in the new timer, mounted it to the control module with 2 mounting screws. Replaced control module with the 1 mounting screw. Closed door and plugged it up.

Diagnosis: used wiring diagram attached to frig and determined cause could be wiring, heater element, thermostat or timer. After completely defrosting the frig (turned it off) I removed the rear cover in the freezer and looked for an obvious problem. None seen. Removed temperature select pod from the frig box and looked for obvious problems. None seen but defrost timer appeared poorly made. Repair: Since I had no practical way of checking the defrost cycle in operation, I checked probable failures on the Part Select website and saw defrost timer as most probable. I ordered the timer. Installed it. Waited a few days to make sure the frig went through a few defrost cycles then removed the freezer rear cover. There was no excessive frost buildup so I'm reasonably sure the repair was successful.

I watched the video you had on-line and it was simple. Thank you so much

I used a pick to remove the lugs from the old starter. Clicked them right in the new one and it went to woking!!!

Unplug the refrigerator. Removed the right hand top shelf. Used a 1/4" nutdriver to remove rear center mounting screw for Control Housing. Used Phillips screwdriver to remove two mounting screws for timer. Unplug cable from timer and plug it into the new timer. Install the new timer and re-install the Control Housing. Plug in the refrigerator and adjust the timer to start the unit. This was a snap with the diagnostic provided by Part Select. At first I thought it was the fan rubbing but when I removed the cover (two screws) it was obvious that wasn't the problem. The diagnostic hinted that it was either the timer or the motor capacitor making the noise. Because the noise continued after turning OFF the control, I thought it was the timer...I was right.

Emptied freezer, removed fan motor cover (2 screws), removed fan and motor (2 screws), removed old motor from bracket and reassembled with new motor, transferred fan blade from old motor to new), re-installed new fan/motor (2 screws) and reinstalled cover...

change the evaporator fan motor kit working perfect

I am a 65 year old woman with no mechanical aptitude: I just unplugged the frig. And used a screw driver to pry of the plastic socket from its outside edge. . Then you just unplug two tiny contact plugs that appear when you pull out the socket and replug in those two the same way on the new part. Pop the socket back into the hole . . . . And screw in the new bulb. I knew I needed the socket part cause when the bulb burned out , a new bulb still did not work. . . If I can do it, anyone can!

Rolled the old gasket to expose the screws for the door panel. Removed all Phillips head screws with a drill and an extension bit. Once you remove the interior door panel dispose of the old gasket and thoroughly clean the surface both front and back of the panel. Install the new gasket and use RTV silicone sealant on the back side of the gasket to ensure that it remains in place. Keep the door closed for as long as possible to ensure that the silicone cures and the gasket remains in place. Hope this helps.