FRS20ZSHB2 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

had removed the doors to get fridge in thru small doorway when doors were reinstalled the elbow leak was replaced in about 15 minutes or less by cutting old elbow out of lines and the lines snap into new elbow with just a little force

Removed four screws at top and two at bottom and pulled ice maker unit out and replaced with the new lever .

Removed outside cover on door despencer, (4 screws) unplug wire, removed unit from refrig and replace rusted thru wire that holds door shut. It was fairly easy. I actually took it apart twice, once for diagnosis and once for repair after the part arrived.

Downloaded a schematic of the ice container. Disassembled the ice container, keeping track of which different type of screws went where. Followed the schematic to ensure proper sequence of blades and spacers. Manually rotated unit prior to installing into the freezer in case of binding. Finished.

But I have back ground mechanical skills, I did see the video one time, and everything went smooth......

Looked up similar problems and found it to be the defrost timer. All I had to do was remove the plastic portion in the fridge section to get to the old timer. Popped the new one in and put it back together. Works great now. Would have been almost $150 to have a repair company come out and fix it.

Looked it up on how to, follow the video
. Very easy 1-2-3 it was out and new one in..........??.

Found that that ice maker was working mechanically and electrically but was not receiving water to the ice maker. I found that the dual solenoid valve was not sending water to the ice maker when I asked for water so I ordered a new dual solenoid and this fixed the problem,however I also found the water feed tube was frozen and had to take it off an thaw it out. Now the ice maker and water dispenser is working great.

The part’s picture on the site was not identical to the part delivered, but the function was essentially the same. It had different connectors to the outgoing tubes and a slightly different method of attachment to the refrigerator (it required 1 additional skew - not included). After verifying the part would still work, I shut off the water. Then I disconnected the two outgoing tubes. Made sure I had bucket handy to handle excess water. Then I removed the part using an adjustable wrench (1 screw) and then detached the incoming tube. Attached the incoming tube to the new part and then remounted (2 screws). And then I attached the two outgoing tubes and turned on the water. It works great and I have no plumbing experience.

take the ice bin out of freezer. there are 2- 1/4" screws. these screws only need to be loosened a few turns. the ice maker can be slightly lifted up and will come off the screws. unhook the wire harness. take the "L" bracket off the old ice maker and put on the new one. set the new ice maker in. hook up the wire harness. put the new ice maker over the screws, tuck the wires out of the way and pull down into place. tighten the screws.

It was a snap. Literally. all I had to do was snap and slide the front off the broken drawer and slide and snap it onto the new.

1. Turned off the cooling cycle and unplugged the refrigerator.
2. Removed all of the shelving and bottom basket.
3. Removed rear covering in the freezer section.
4. If frosted over, manually defrost coils with hairdryer.
5. Located original thermostat and after marking the wire locations cut the wires and removed the Thermostat.
6. Connected matching wires using a lighter to melt the wires together. Wrapped repaired wires with electricians tape.
7. Unable to install the thermostat in the recommended location (freezer is a tight fit) the new part was installed at the original location.
8. Replaced the rear cover and shelves.
9. Plugged in the refrigerator and set the cycle back to cooling.
10. Monitored freezer coils couple of days/weeks depending on how fast they freeze over (slots at bottom of cover) to validate if problem solved.

Removed four screws for cover on refrigerator temperature controls, unpluged old timer and pluged in new timer. Replaced cover and screws.

Remove ice pan below ice maker. Got mirrow verifed the type of screws. Obtained nut driver and felt it at right angle remove screws only have way. The ice maker lifts up and off. Took needle nose pliers to grip and remove electrical connection plug. The instruction and picture sent was no help the picture were the size of a thumb nail no detail could be determine. I installed the adapter plug and all the extra length wiring was the most difficult to type wrap with both hands extended out in front. I finally wrestled it in on to the two screws unscrewed from the wall about 1/2". Keep the ice maker water lever up and ensure it aligns to the water trough inlet. Works Great.
glg

I removed the housing at the top of the refrigerator compartment that contained the reefer light and temperature adjustment knob. This required a small nut-driver. Inside, I found the old defrost control, unplugged it, unscrewed it with a Phillips screwdriver, and replaced it with the replacement part. Then I replaced the housing to its original position.