FRS26ZTHW1 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

I followed all the usual suggestions about changing the water filter and disconnecting the exterior copper line and testing it to make sure flow was steady. I then got ambitious and diconnected and tested the flow of water through each of the refrigerator's interior valves. Isolating my problem inside the dual valve that regulates feed into the water dispenser and icemaker I was able to clear out the blockage with a small dustbuster air cannister but reassmbling the valves somehow caused the valve to no longer function right so I ordered a replacement valve and had it all reconnected in five minutes once the part arrived. A simple repair to avoid a very costly replacement! Partselect has now been used by me to repair my oven, refrigerator (twice) and microwave. A pretty good alternative to replacing an appliance if you are willing to try your own repair.

I removed the ice container found the part # on the bottom ordered a new one and installed it. It just slipped right in to place.

I started by shutting off water supply and unplugged refrigerator. Then using a nutdriver removed back lower panel exposing the dual inlet water valve on the left side which was held in place with one bolt. After unbolting the valve you can pull the entire assembly out enough to remove the three water connections. The instructions suggest cutting of about 1/2" off of the two discharge lines to provide a better connection to the new valve. The entire process was very simple. The price of the part was a small fraction of the new refrigerator my wife was threatening to buy if I did not get her ice maker working again. Thanks for another great repair experience!

Turned off water and unplugged refrigerator. Removed rear cardboard pannel. Removed screw holding valve, unscrewed water lines, disconnected wires. Drained excess water into cup. Reinstalled lines on new valve. Reconnected wires. Installed into place. Reinstalled cover. Done. Wasn't sure if this was the problem but narrowed it down to a few things. Valve wasn't closing all of the way allowing water to continue to drip into ice maker and out door. Works perfectly. Oreder on Sunday received by Tuesday. No complaints for PartsSelect.

All I had to do was place the two new shelves in the desired locations.

the heater defroster was bad. tested and no continuity brake in eliment.just doing a visual might have detected it but it`s hidden behind the coils.....all is working now

I order part # PS429001 dual inlet water valve located in bottom left corner of refridge on monday it arrived nest day.I then shut off water source and disconnected refridge.
I removed back bottom panel { 5screws} and then i removed
water valve {1 screw} I unplugged electrical wires and water feed lines from valve.You have to pull hard on feed lines to remove. I installed new valve, connected wires,
i had to clip off about 1/2" of feed line ends for a tighter fit on new valve. I reinstalled back panel. I plugged in refridge turned on water,and presto i'm getting
fast water again from the dispenser. P.S. I also took the time to vacumm around compressor and fan.
thanks PARTSELECT.

Wasn't sure if it was the derost timer or the heating element. Since the timer was much cheaper, I bought it and crossed my fingers.
My story is like the others. Unplug the refrigerator, snip the old wires, strip back the wire insulation, use the supplied connectors to attach the new defrost timer to the existing wiring.
Success! My coils no longer freeze up.
Only difficulty is I am a large guy, and fitting my upper body into the freezer was challenging.

After posting the specific symptoms and getting feedback, I had narrowed the cause to two linked parts. I ordered both intending to replace first one, then the other as needed. With parts in hand, I pulled off the freezer control knob, used a nut driver to remove the two panel securing screws (behind the face, against the inner ceiling) and gently dropped the cover down. The control (temp sensor and cold control) is easily accessible as it sits wedged into two slots in the plastic cover. The control must be slightly lifted in order to extract the long sensor that attaches to the control and runs under it and into a plastic sleeve behind the panel (the new control comes with the sensor wrapped in a tight coil and it must be unwound for the install). Removed the three wires noting which color goes where. Used needle-nose pliers to remove the small push-on tabs and removed the control. After starting the new sensor probe into the sleeve re-attached the 3 wires to the new control. Used the original as a model for how to pre-bend the probe for the first 2 inches as it was mildly frustrating to position the unit back correctly. Pushed everything back into place, re-installed the screws and plugged the fridge back in...(you DID unplug it first, right?). Still haven't used the second part (defrost timer), but I expect it to go soon...it is a 17 year old refrigerator, after all.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Removed old thermostat and replaced. really easy.

I removed the old ice maker and unplugged the cable. Screwed in the new one with a 1/4 nut driver at the 2 mounting screws, plugged cable in. Checked ice maker with a small level before final. All Ok and after night I had Ice and it has been working great since.

I removed the two screws and unplugged it. I then attached the pigtail to the appliance, then to the fridge. I had to push the excess wire harness into the hole in the back. It took a few minutes to move the rest of the harness out of the way by curving it upward and securing it with a nylon tie.I ordered the ice maker from Part Select on Sunday night and it arrived at 8:32 Tuesday morning, THANK YOU! I ordered very simple weed cutter parts from Sears a week ago and they haven't even shipped yet!

First I remove the back panel which had 4 screws. Then I removed the ice maker. The icemaker is held in place by the 2 screws that requires backing the screws out just a litter, than lift up and remove the electrical connector. Used a volt ohm meter to check the resisitant in the heater element and the defrost timing switch. Both tested good and that left only the thermostat. Removed and replaced the thermastat swich. I cut the ends of the old switch and crimp the ends of wire with the crimps that came with the swict i purchased from parts select. My refrigerator is working properly and making ice like normal.

Turn off ice maker
Slide wire harness shield off connector
Disconnected harness
Loosened 2 wall screws
Remove old ice maker
Installed new one reversing process