FPIF117BE Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

First I removed the plastic grill (pulled out, no screws) from bottom of refrigerator, then I removed electrical plug & two screws from old timer (timer located on the front inside left lower side of refrigerator). Installed in reverse order.

I removed the housing at the top of the refrigerator compartment that contained the reefer light and temperature adjustment knob. This required a small nut-driver. Inside, I found the old defrost control, unplugged it, unscrewed it with a Phillips screwdriver, and replaced it with the replacement part. Then I replaced the housing to its original position.

I called the repairman who diagnosed the problem as a thermostat then had to order a thermostat took about 2 weeks to get back and install (cost little over $100). did good for about two weeks and same problem reoccured. I decided it was defrost timer and ordered from this site for $19.95 including shipping. I got on ( you tube ) and got instructions(recommend you tube) for DIY install about 15 to 20 minutes. Has been running great for about 3 weeks. ( YOU TUBE IS GREAT FOR A DIY REPAIR ON ABOUT ANYTHING)

It was very easy. Took off water line and two screws. Put new valve back on and presto life (ice) is good again.

Removed four screws for cover on refrigerator temperature controls, unpluged old timer and pluged in new timer. Replaced cover and screws.

Checked for continuity in heater, defrost thermostat and defrost timer. Heater good; not sure about thermostat or timer. Replaced thermostat - no change. Replaced timer - rotating and heater working.

I removed the plastic shroud on the ceiling of the refigerator, unscrewed and unplugged the old defrost timer, and replaced it with the new one. I reinstalled the shroud with the new timer installed.

Ordered the Capacitor and the Thermostat Control. Parts were received in a matter of a few days, easy to install, but did not fix the problem. Had to call a repairman to fix the problem (compressor relay - this part not available to order for this model number with Parts Select). Will continue to use Parts Select in the future for other parts, but not happy that the actual part I needed was not available - had to use other methods.

Removed the vent cover at the bottom. Removed the screws. disconected the harnes and put the new timer in. This was a very easy fix. Thank You!

Unplugged the fridge. Removed water inlet valve from fridge. Used voltmeter to test for resistance (between 50 and 150 ohms). Didn't pass the test.
My original part was 218720400. I ordered part PS468507 from partselect.com. My original part had a "garden hose" coupling so PS468507 fit the bill.
This part's electrical connection wasn't angled the same way as the original so we had to finagle it.
Hooked the plastic refridgerator supply hose up first.
Then screwed on the copper "garden hose" connection to the valve using channel lock pliers. Was careful not to over tighten.
Then the fun started. The electrical connector wires were a tight fit between the copper tubing and the refridgerator frame. Did I mention that the electrical connetion wasn't angled the same as the original? My daughter got her smaller hands in there and was able to make the connection.
NOTE: Because of the angling issue I was unable to screw the anchor plate to the fridge.
I made sure that the valve did not interfere with the fan.
Turned on the water and checked for leaks.
Plugged the fridge back in and in a couple of hours we had ice cubes. Works like a charm!

From most posts I've read, the defrost timer was the culprit so I blindly ordered one. Easy install but did not fix the problem so I broke out the ohm meter. The only other 2 items it could be all tested good with my meter so I bypassed the defrost thermostat (per forum help...actually quite easy)and it defrosted fine, which told me I needed a new defrost thermostat. Installed fairly easy and problem gone.

Based on the website I decided it was most probably the defrost timer, and that was correct. I ordered it, watched the video, and two days later the part was at my door. Took the nut driver, removed 4 screws, then removed the old defrost timer, installed the new one, re-installed the whole plastic assembly with the four screws, and done!!! Couldn't have been easier.

Made sure water was going into valve, shut off water to valve, removed it. removed two connections, replaced with new valve, Walla, off & running. Incidentally, rec'd new valve much quicker than I ever expected.

It was very easy. Pulled off the old valve and replaced with the new one and it started making ice right away. There are a couple of issues you need to be aware of that I am watching closely now. The old valve was a 15 watt valve. The one they sent me is a 35 watt valve. It really pressures the water into the ice maker. So much so I am getting a little leaking from the overflow. Its working so well and powering the water in so fast it starts to leak a little due to being to full. When I ordered the part, no where did it show the wattage of the valve so be careful. It works great but will have to keep an eye on it so it does not overflow.

A little research told me the hum plus no cooling was either the compressor or the relay. I ordered the new relay and put it in but it didn't fix the problem. I ended up having to buy a new fridge, but it was worth the $30 gamble to see if I could fix it on the cheap and it saved me the money a service call would've cost. Pretty easy installation, just in a tight space on my model.