FRT18RRCD3 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Based on the website I decided it was most probably the defrost timer, and that was correct. I ordered it, watched the video, and two days later the part was at my door. Took the nut driver, removed 4 screws, then removed the old defrost timer, installed the new one, re-installed the whole plastic assembly with the four screws, and done!!! Couldn't have been easier.

First I removed 2 screws and removed broken railing then placed new railing ad screwed in new screws then replaced drawer into railings. Thank you so much for the excellent service in geting me the correct part in a timely manner.

took off the old one installed the new one

Removed the vent cover at the bottom. Removed the screws. disconected the harnes and put the new timer in. This was a very easy fix. Thank You!

I removed the shelf, took off the old ends caps, replaced them with the new ones and put the shelf back in place. No glue or tools needed and the job was completed in under 2 minutes.

First, my husband removed the shelf assembly. Then he unscrewed the boken bracket. He then screwed in the new bracket and proceeded to install thecomplete shelf assembly back into the fridge. Placed the meat drawer back into correct location, to fit back into rail brackets. All done.

Put the new shelf into position-Voila!

Found the part on this site ordered and received part in 3 days. Took approx. 10 min to replace. Thanks for the quick service.

Unplug fridge, tilt back against wall to provice clearance to install new assembly. Used self starting screws to install. Used cordless drill with nutdriver to install assembly.
Time to complete job-5 minutes

The meat drawer is already pulled out because the broken rail could not support it. 1st I removed the shelf. Then I removed the 2 screws connecting the rail to the shelf. I then replaced the rail, screwed it together and put the shelf back in place. I put the meat drawer back on the rails and it's done.

quite easy with screwdriver. I was somewhat surprised that they did not include screws as well as the small part to cover the screw hole.

unplug power from ref removed old light socket only difference wired a little different checked new socket compaired to old checked terminal ends small big looked at wires big,little plugged up put in new light blub plugged ref power back on work power off pushed socket bac in power on works

Just took it out of the box, wash it and put it on the inside door.

I used a flat head screwdriver to pry open the front of the socket as I pushed the socket toward the freezer side. I unplugged the two wires connected to the socket then re-connected the two wires to the new socket and popped the new socket back in. I then put a new light bulb in and we had light again in the fridge.

After realizing the engineering on this dryer was different, I was able to access the temperature control thermostat through the front, along the side of the heating element. Several philips screws hold the front on, removing them allows you to take front panel off. At that point the heating element is below. I took a picture of the wires, so that when I started removing them, it would be easy to reconnect. Two screws hold the heating element in place, upon removing the heating element housing pulls gently forward and out, be careful of the wires, the thermostat is the second thing connected to the housing of the heating element. Two more philips screws hold the housing to the bottom of the dryer. Two wires are removed from thermostat, which is also held in place by two philips screws. Remove wires, one at a time and place on thermostat exactly as they were on old thermostat. Hold new thermostat in place with the two Philip screws, and reassemble in reverse order. And enjoy your working dryer once more, hopefully for years to come.