FRS23KF5DW2 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

swap filter

In my specific appliance the water valve is located in the bottom right hand corner looking at it from the back. To get to it I remove the thin layer of cardboard the covers the back of the fridge. I then proceeded to disconnect the 1/4" copper tubing which is the water feed coming out of the wall. Then I removed the screws that hold the valve assembly in place. I took the water valve out and removed the electrical connections as well as the plastic tubing which feed the water dispenser and the ice maker. To install the new water valve it was just a matter of reversing steps.

Used pliers to remove the residual broken stud that was still attached to the wall of the refrigerator, and then just pushed the new part in place. The longest time was spent in removing the food and crisper drawers.

Even though my wife said that our icemaker broke, there was actually nothing wrong with it. It was the valve that let water flow in during the 'harvest' cycle.
A real easy way to test the icemaker without voltage and current measurements, is to fill the tray by hand with a little cup of water; wait till the water freezes and see if the maker dumped the ice into the bin.

Unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the 4 hex head screws on the lower back panel at the back of the freezer. Used a blow dryer to defrost the pipes and area surrounding the thermostat. Unplug the connection from the back of the freezer, unplug the 2 wires, one that goes to the heater, one that comes from power. Unclip the thermostat from the pipe and note which pipe you unclipped it from. Cut the wires on the old thermostat midway between the plugs and the sensor. Using the supplied butt connectors, strip the wire ends on color matched wires (should be a dark blue or black) and crimp them together. Repeat with the other wire. Discard the white shrink wrapping. I wasn't able to get it small enough with a hair dryer or lighter. Plug the thermostat back into it's respective plugs. Clip the thermostat back onto the pipe you removed it from. Replace the back panel with the four screws. Ensure the bottom of the panel is set inside of the drip tray. Replace any shelving you removed. Plug the refrigerator back into the wall. Your done!

I removed the fan housing in the freezer section by removing all the screws. (7) There are two screws behind the vents. I did not have an ice maker to contend with so this was very easy. There is only two wires to disconnect....the ground wire and the electricity supply. Then you remove the unit from the back of the housing cover by removing two screws. Then the motor is removed from it's housing by removing 2 more screws. 1...2...3 and you're ready to reverse the procedure. I am not mechanically inclined and this was easy. Saved myself perhaps $120.00. Repair folks wanted mininum of $60.00 just to come out. Part and shipping cost me 33 bucks.OH, DON'T FORGET TO UNPLUG THE FRIDGE. :>)

First I replaced the Defrost Thermostat on the coil and this did not fix the problem. So I ordered this new ADC (Adaptive Defrost Control)board.
It is not identical to the first ADC board and at least one feature the old ADC did was deleted from the function of the Fridge. Not sure why?
Because the board were different a new wiring harness was provided.
Step 1. Unplug the unit and remove the water filter.
Step 2. Remove the covers off of the unit on the top of the fridge using the 1/4" nut driver and a 1/4" deep well socket with extension for the deeper inset fasteners. This exposes the wiring harness and the ADC board as well as the temperature controls.
step 3. Remove the screws for the ADC on the cover and remove the wiring harness from it. No need to note the wire's positions as the new ADC uses a different connector.
step 4. As you remove each connection of the wire harness from the unit replace that connection with then new harness connector to eliminate any confusion. Do each one. One by one until the old harness is completely loose and the new harness is completely installed.
step 5. Install new ADC which in my case was now enclosed in an orange case. Unlike the one I removed that was and open pcb.
Step 6. Replace covers using the 1/4" nut driver and 1/4" wrench.
Step 7. Replace filter and plug in unit.

Apparently there have been 4 versions of this ADC board through the years. My fridge was built in 2003 not long before I bought it.

First I disconnected the power cord, then removed the screws that held the bracket that holds the base for the water-filer in place. I then disconnected the water lines(intake and outflow). Next I removed the screws that held the water-filter's base in place. I then disconnected the release lock mechanism for the filter and finally removed the water-filter base. I did the reverse to install the new water-filter base. Previously I had tested the intake water line and noticed the water was flowing with enough pressure upto the water-filter's base but no water was exiting thru the outflow line, which leads to the Ice-Maker and Dispenser. I had tried changing the filter but that didn't solve the problem it was then I had realized that the Base was the problem. The actual problem was the spring-loaded valves for both the intake and outflow lines, which had a plastic prong that protrudes out of the base that is triggered by the filter when installed. The two prongs were worn-down so the filter wasn't activating the spring-loaded release valve to let the water thru. As for the light, I just unscrewed it.

For the ice dispenser, I read a blog that pointed me right to the solenoid that controls the linkage for the crushed /cubed ice.I first unplugged the fridge. Then removed the ice maker basket. Removed 2 ea screws from each side of the supports of the lower brackets. Then lifted the tray assy off the mounting bracket, moving the front of the bracket down you can then unhook the power/control connector.
The tray then comes right out. Once out you remove two screws that hold a plastic plate on. With this removed you can see the solenoid that actuates the linkage for the ice cube and crushed ice. You then remove 2 ea machine screws that hold the solenoid in. Remove grd. wire. and pull power wires off tabs. You can then remove the solenoid by sliding it out of the plastic retainer. With it out you install the new plunger and reassemble in the reverse order. 15 mins tops.

The main Refidgerator door, made a cluncking sound. Lube didn't help. I removed the door by removing the top screw from the plastic cover, then slide it forward, then remove the two screws that hold the hinge on and then lifting the door off, once off the lower nylon hinge bearing comes right out of the door, the plate is removed with a screw driver. Installed in reverse order and cluncking was gone. 10 mins

Pushed the button on the filter in the fridge, the cartridge popped out and in with the new. That simple. Prior to replacement the water was leaking, although it was still producing water and ice through the door. When the filter was out, no leaks, but no water and ice! Just needed a new filter.

pulled fridge from wall, removed card board cover, unplug the fridge. turn the water off to the fridge. remove the water source from fridge first then remove 2 screws that hold the valve. then the wire plugs. hoses.. they were color coded.

we researched the internet with our symptoms and most sites said it was the thermostat. At $800+ for a new refrigerater, we decided to order the thermostat. Found schematics on the net, the thermostat was located in teh freezer compartment . Unplugged, removed food from freezer, removed the bottom shelf in freezer, and the back panel It was EASY to find. Cut 2 wires, replaced with new thermostat. DONE! The new thermostat came with new connecters.

First I pulled the fridge out and unplugged it. Then I removed the drip tray at the bottom of the water and ice dispenser. This exposed three screws that held the frame of the dispenser mechanism to the freezer door. I removed the three screws and lifted it up a little and I could pull it out and tip it to get at the inside of the dispenser mechanism. I could pull the whole mechanism out a bit, but I was afraid to pull it out too far for fear of unplugging something and tearing or breaking a wire. The water dispenser actuator piece has two round plastic "pins" on either side to allow the actuator to rock back and forth. These "pins" are held in place in a round channel by two metal plates which were in turn held in place by two screws. When I tried to take out these retaining plates, I dropped one of the screws in the dispenser mechanism. I had to fish it out with a magnet. By the way, the plates did not respond to a magnet, so when I dropped one of these, I had to use needle-nosed pliers to fish it out. It took a while, but I finally got the old actuator out and out the new one in and carefully re-attached the retaining plate with their respective screws and re-attached the little spring to the actuator. Before I put it back together, I cleaned off the little door to the ice dispenser. It looked a little crudded up and I just wiped it off with some damp Q-tips. I then put the dispenser mechanism back on to the freezer door, put the screws back, slid the drip tray back, plugged it in and it (surprisingly) works fine. Looking back, I probably should have bought a part for the ice dispenser, too, and replaced that at the same time.

When cleaning the coils on your refrigerator always remember rule number 1, unplug it first. I was cleaning the coils and hit the fan blade while it was moving with a brush, thus breaking off one of the fan blades. I ordered a new fan and installed it in about 15 minutes. Very easy repair.

Simply swapped out the entire icemaker, works like a charm